Where to Eat in Italy Coffee & Tea

Gilli: What to Eat and Drink in Florence's Oldest Historic Café, Opened 300 Years Ago

by:
Francesca Feresin
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copertina caffe gilli

We start with Florence's oldest historic café to tell you about three establishments where time seems to have stood still (but not too much). Neighbors, allies, and competitors, Caffè Gilli and Caffè Concerto Paszkowski dominate Piazza della Repubblica, offering customers different options. With the reopening of Giacosa, the Valenza Group further dignifies the city's past.

Florence and its historic cafés

Hard not to notice them, side by side, in the heart of Florence, marking the limits of Piazza della Repubblica. I'm talking about Caffè Gilli and Caffè Concerto Paszkowski, which, with their windows and outdoor seating, dominate the entire area.

caffe paszowsky 1
 

Two companions, enemies and allies at the same time, a mirror and a flag of a Florence that is increasingly vibrant, living at the counter from morning to late evening. They are managed by the same family, the Valenza entrepreneurs, Marco and Sonia. From managing a small bar in Florence to first conquering Caffè Concerto Paszkowski and then Caffè Gilli. Two places with different origins.

caffe paszowsky 4
 

Gilli and Paszowsky: from the past to the future

Gilli is one of Italy's oldest and most prestigious establishments. It opened in 1733 on Via dei Calzaiuoli, from the Swiss family of Luigi Gilli. It was then called "Bottega dei pani dolci". Then it moved to Via degli Speziali and finally to the current Piazza della Repubblica. It started as a confectionery and later specialized in pastry, coffee, and even receptions.

caffe gilli 2
 

On the other hand, Paszkowski has a different story. It originated between the late 1800s and the early 1900s as Caffè Centrale. In 1903, it became a landmark not only for the city but also for the intellectuals of the time. It transformed into a beer hall and refreshment point, acquiring the name Paszkowski to become the Brand Ambassador of the Paszkowski Beer, which spread until the 1930s.

Caffe concerto PASZ
 

Paszkowski is effectively a literary café that welcomes intellectuals such as Prezzolini, D’Annunzio, Soffici, Papini, Montale, Saba, and Pratolini. In 1979, the café was purchased by the Valenza family, who decided to revitalize not only the café but also the restaurant and mixology, never forgetting the tradition of the Concerto Café. What are the strengths of the two establishments? What to try in one and what in the other?

caffe concerto paszowsky Drinklist LucaManni 6 16
 

Food & drinks offering

Caffè Gilli, in its century-old existence, has lost nothing in terms of authenticity and quality. Today it remains a landmark in Italy and worldwide for pastry production, offering both traditional choices like the famous Gilli cake and innovative options. In addition to the pastry and coffee, there is also a restaurant with seasonal menus rich in Italian and international specialties, which can be enjoyed in the sumptuous indoor hall or, on sunny days, in the spacious covered outdoor seating area.

Torta Gilli
 
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But the true flagship of the café that makes it unique and incomparable is the Negroni, one of the world's most famous cocktails, whose history is closely tied to the Tuscan city. It originated in 1919 when, in Florence, Count Camillo Negroni asked the young Fosco Scarselli of Caffè Casoni to add gin to the "usual" vermouth and bitter drink that he loved to sip.

Negroni caffe gilli
 

At Caffè Gilli, seated at the tables overlooking Piazza della Repubblica, you can savor the classic Negroni or the Centennial version, with three different preparations symbolizing its past, present, and future. There's also the award-winning Neg-Mex where mezcal replaces gin and an unusual ingredient, the addition of coffee liqueur.

caffe gilli 4
 

At Caffè Concerto Paszkowski, the strong point of the offering is also concentrated behind the counter. And now more than ever, the cocktail bar of this historic venue continues its journey of exploration with Luca Manni's drinks, paying homage to the great classics of mixology, in a continuous play between past and future. These drinks enhance the original recipes of the selected classics through the venue's personal reinterpretation and the use of modern preparation techniques, such as the creation of cordials and velvets, or the use of infusions and vacuum cooking. "The cocktail bar offering at Caffè Concerto Paszkowski evolves with special attention to both unusual pairings and the approach of well-known flavors that are not normally combined," says bar manager Luca Manni. 

caffe concerto paszowsky Drinklist LucaManni 6 9
 
caffe concerto paszowsky Drinklist LucaManni 6 2
 
caffe concerto paszowsky Drinklist LucaManni 6 5
 

One standout is the "Negroni, che passione!", a cocktail designed to appeal to every palate, thanks to the soft tones of passion fruit cordial, balanced with the choice of primo red dry vermouth and a bitter dedicated to Florence. "We closely follow the seasonality of products with a keen eye on new trends and the latest trends in national and international mixology, all without ever forgetting the importance of the aesthetic side of the cocktail," Luca Manni continues. "Our style is our signature, contemporary and minimal... but not so much!"

caffe concerto paszowsky Drinklist LucaManni 6 1
 

Giacosa Café

It seems like a lot, but there's more. Just a few months ago, thanks to the Valenza Group, Giacosa reopened, the historic establishment (formerly known as Casoni) at the corner of Via Tornabuoni and Via della Spada, which is indelibly intertwined with the history of the global bar and the birth of the world's best-selling cocktail, the Negroni. 

caffe Giacosa 6
 
caffe Giacosa 8
 

Today, at the new Giacosa, Luca Manni, Bar Supervisor of the Valenza Group, curates the drink list for the establishment. Paying homage to the Italian aperitif, Manni has developed a menu consisting of three main sections: the tribute to tradition features "classics" like Negroni, where the traditional recipe remains unchanged, but service methods or preparation techniques may vary; the central part of the menu is dedicated to modern reinterpretations such as the Gibson Negroni; finally, the future of the aperitif is presented in the section called "Giacosa Creations," where some great classics of the Italian aperitif are revisited, like the Garibaldi, reimagined here with Savoia Americano, Chinotto, orange, and cocoa.

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Addresses

Caffè Gilli

Via Roma, 1R 50123 Florence, Italy

Caffé Concerto Paszowsky

Piazza della Repubblica, 35, Florence, Italy

Caffè Giacosa

Via della Spada, 15 R, 50123 Florence, Italy

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