Mixology Wine, Beer, and Drinks

Florence, the Legendary "Negroni Bar" Reopens: How Giacosa Will Change

by:
Sveva Valeria Castegnaro
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copertina caffe giacosa negroni

The Valenza Group brings new light to Caffè Giacosa, an iconic symbol of Italian hospitality closely linked to the Negroni. What’s changed? Not just one type of Negroni will be served. Here's how the drink list has changed.

The Venue

One of the symbols that has shaped the history of Italian hospitality and bartending on an international level is coming back to life. The historic Florentine café, Giacosa, reopens at the corner of Via Tornabuoni and Via della Spada. "Its rebirth is the result of a series of signals that I decided to embrace. It was as if this brand, which I purchased in 2019, wanted to come back to life and chose me as its middle man. I believe that with the closure of Giacosa, an important part of history was lost, not only for Florence but for all of Italy," explains Marco Valenza, the owner of the establishment.

caffe giacosa drink 3
 

The History

Giacosa's history dates back to the 1830s and is closely linked to the birth of the world's most popular cocktail: the Negroni. The Giacosa shop, opened by the brothers bearing its name in Turin in 1815 and replicated in Florence in 1860, was later moved to 83 Via Tornabuoni, in the premises of the former Casoni Grocer and Perfumery. It is said that on an unspecified day in 1919, Count Camillo Luigi Manfredo Maria Negroni, a great traveler who lived extensively in the United States, asked the young bartender Fosco Scarselli for a substantial modification to the usual Vermouth-based cocktail (then called Vermutte). He requested, "Reduce the seltzer and sneak in some Gin." That's how "an Americano like Count Negroni.”

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In its time, just like today, Florence attracted cosmopolitan travelers on the Grand Tour, and Giacosa quickly became one of Europe's salons where nobles and dandies gathered and spent their time. A point of reference for aristocracy and intellectuals from around the world, over the years, the café gradually lost its shine and was put up for sale several times until the Bardelli family purchased it in 1974, restoring it to its former glory. In 2001, the establishment was incorporated into the Cavalli boutique and transformed into "Caffè Giacosa by Roberto Cavalli," until its final closure after being acquired by Armani in 2017. Now, thanks to the Valenza Group, known for revitalizing two of Italy's oldest bars - Caffè Gilli and Caffè Paszkowski (dating back to 1733 and 1903, respectively) - this piece of world hospitality history will shine once again.

caffe giacosa drink
 

The renovation, which preserved the historical image of the venue, was overseen by interior design architects Paolo Becagli and Alessandro Interlando, they gave the spaces a subtle elegance and restored to the café the faded dandy allure over the years. "Having always worked in historical establishments, the passion for the stories that certain brands carry with them has become ingrained in my DNA. This passion played a crucial role in embracing the Giacosa project. Historical venues serve a similar purpose as monuments: what would Venice be without Florian or Quadri, Padua without Pedrocchi, or Rome without Caffè Greco? Stepping into a historical venue allows you to breathe in the sense of belonging to that place, provided that those who lead it do so with careful management. Managing a historical venue is a profession that requires great sensitivity because it's not just about preservation but also about renewing while respecting its history and authenticity," narrates Marco Valenza.

caffe giacosa menu
 

The News

The first menu at Giacosa, crafted by Luca Manni, the bar supervisor of the Valenza Group, revolves around the Italian aperitivo presented in three main sections representing the past, present, and future of this beloved tradition in Italy. The homage to tradition is inevitably left to the "classic" Negroni, where the recipe remains unchanged, but the serving methods or preparation techniques may change, as in the case of the Shaken Negroni.

caffe giacosa drink 2
 

The second section, on the other hand, is dedicated to modern reinterpretations of the traditional recipe, such as the Gibson Negroni or the Cham-on!, a personal twist on a Negroni Bianco. Furthermore, Giacosa Creations is the name of the final section, presenting reinterpretation of some great classics of Italian aperitivo, such as the Garibaldi with Savoia Americano, Chinotto, orange, and cocoa, or the Cardinale, enriched with the alluring aroma of pungent incense, creating a captivating sensory experience. To accompany the cocktails, Giacosa also offers a selection of sweet and savory items, including La Duchessina with foie gras pâté infused with cognac, quince, and hazelnuts, home-made pan-toasted ham & cheese sandwich, and the Negroni baba... just to name a few. "It is an honor for me to bring back to life a name so important for my city, and it is a responsibility that I carry with great pride and pleasure, having contributed to designing menus for establishments like Caffè Paszkowski, Caffè Gilli, and now Giacosa," declared Luca Manni himself.

luca manni caffe paszwosky
 

Wine Reporter

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