Founded by Chef Giancarlo Morelli, the restaurant undergoes a makeover in appearance and menu but remains true to its values, reaffirming its status as a culinary destination for those seeking exceptional food outside the city.
Timeless Excellence: Pomiroeu and chef Giancarlo Morelli
Opened in 1993 in the historic center of Seregno, Pomiroeu is an iconic hub of Lombard cuisine and, as it has always been, a reference point for lovers of fine dining who prefer a more genuine and unpretentious experience compared to many gourmet restaurants in the nearby city of Milan.
But above all, Pomiroeu "is" Chef Giancarlo Morelli, its founder, who has poured his entire self into this establishment, from his origins in a family of farmers from the Bergamo countryside to his travels around the world, from his initial forays into cooking to his experiences as a junior chef on American ocean cruise ships and later in prestigious restaurants in France, to his passion for art collecting and his connection with the industrious territory of Brianza.
The cuisine: concrete, “radical”, (ever)green
Morelli's gastronomic proposal is based on the concept of authentic, straightforward, and direct cooking, characterized by simple gestures and genuine ingredients which shies away from self-indulgent experimentation. The Pomiroeu menu has always been conceived as a journey that, through individual dishes and their sequence, celebrates the traditional flavors of the region. Thanks to the use of high-quality, fresh, seasonal ingredients, prepared simply but creatively combined, it delivers authentic and exciting flavors that tell the story of the Brianza countryside and its residents, rejuvenating its history.
Moreover, the choice to source from small local producers operating ethically has allowed Chef Morelli to champion sustainability and environmental responsibility long before it became a trend. From meat to fish, vegetables to the classic cheese selection (now hard to find in restaurants), everything aligns with the principle that the chef embraced from his earliest experiences in the culinary world (especially with the poor quality school cafeteria food): "eating" isn't just about "nourishing oneself," but enjoying a pleasurable and satisfying experience for the palate, sight, mind, and spirit.
The result of this quest is a cuisine that remains faithful to its roots while being incredibly dynamic and contemporary, adapting based on the chef's experiences and his desire to combine colors, flavors, and techniques, striking a balance that respects the naturalness of the raw ingredients and minimizes waste.
The new 30th-anniversary menu: a faithful evolution true to itself
The anniversary menu (available since last September) epitomizes the culinary evolution that Pomiroeu has achieved in its 30-year history. Each dish materializes a memory, traced through a growth path where nothing is denied; instead, the inspiration from the past is reinterpreted according to contemporary dining trends and, most importantly, the current audience's demands, recognizing that food should primarily make people happy rather than satisfying the ego of those who conceived or cooked it.
This is why some iconic Pomiroeu dishes return with an innovative twist, simply by changing the plating or their position on the menu. Portions are reduced, and many main courses are lightened and reimagined as captivating appetizers, encouraging diners to taste and renew their focus on each of the various tasting stages.
The 30th-anniversary menu starts with a selection of amuse-bouche served with house-made multigrain bread, hand-pulled grissini, and Malga salt butter: from the Mini-Polenta Tacos with missoltini tartare (a double tribute to the territory where cornmeal is transformed into a crispy wafer to host the niche product of missoltini, a typical fish from Lake Como, where it has been sun-dried since the Middle Ages), to the Mondeghino (traditional leftover meatball) offering a taste of the geographically close but culturally distant Milan, and the Chestnut Cappuccino (with chestnut cream and cocoa), a long standing Pomiroeu dish that was often overlooked on the menu but is now presented unchanged, except for a more playful service, served in an espresso cup.
Next are the actual appetizers: Snails in the Grass, lard, corn are a tribute to the authentic and "radical" poor but vibrant cuisine that gourmet dining had pretended to forget for a long time. Chef Morelli brings it back in a fun way, playing with the presentation (in the form of skewers) and textures, creating an intriguing contrast between the toughness of the snails, the crispiness of the lard, and the softness of classic polenta. In Salmerino, melannurca, porcini (Lake and Mountain Arctic Char Tartare with ginger, mushrooms, and blueberries), the territory is revisited, enhanced in all its richness and spontaneity, expertly blended with exotic influences that enrich rather than overshadow it.
The journey continues with the Chef's Risotto (Carnaroli rice with smoked buffalo ricotta, red shrimp tartare, and black truffle, with anchovy sauce), a dish that was awarded "Risotto of the Year 2009" by the Gallo Prize competition and has been a constant presence on the menu since.
This is followed by Casoncelli alla Bergamasca (with hazelnut butter), a homage to the chef's origins and childhood, and the Ossobuco Evolution (veal with its sauce on saffron rice and gremolada crust), a bold but successful reinterpretation of the iconic Milanese one-pot dish, transformed into a gourmet second course that remains faithful to the flavors while pleasantly altering the textures and presentation.
Finally, Pomiroeu's Tiramisu deconstructs the world's most famous Italian dessert and reconstructs it directly at the table, with a layering that makes the individual elements of the dessert recognizable, combining them with real espresso poured into the plate only at the last moment. The result is a culinary journey that is a genuine experience, filled with fun elements (from the unique presentation to unexpected flavor and texture combinations) and references to the territory (skillfully integrated and balanced with exotic elements).
An historical setting with an entirely new atmosphere
Pomiroeu resides in a historic building, within a courtyard dating back to the 19th century, creating an intimate, elegant, and welcoming ambiance that preserves the magic of a past that is always present and celebrated through its name. In the local dialect, "pomiroeu" means "apple orchard," an explicit reference to the agricultural tradition of the area, particularly the intense production of apples that characterized the Brianza territory.
The white colour dominates both the outdoor setting overlooking the inner garden, where it is possible from the beginning of spring, and the indoor dining rooms, which have recently undergone a redesign with Italian design curated by Giacomo, the chef's son, and signed by four Italian masters of the craft: Piero Lissoni, Vico Magistretti, Tono Morganti, and Michele De Lucchi.
The furnishings are intentionally minimal to complement and highlight the original architectural elements of the building, creating a blend of classicism and innovation visible in the table settings (6 outdoors and 11 indoors): minimal, modern, familiar, and occasionally avant-garde in the choice of different seating between tables and occasional eschewing of traditional tablecloths.
The setting is completed by the wine cellar, housed within the old icehouse, which not only hosts a selection of over 400 prestigious Italian and French labels, personally curated by Chef Giancarlo Morelli, but also offers a unique and evocative atmosphere, perfect for a romantic and refined candlelit dinner.
Art and the team as motivation and sources of inspiration
Contemporary art (from Dennis Oppenheim to Carlo dell'Amico, Marco Grassi Grama, Enrico Cazzaniga, and Reuven Israel) has always been present in Pomiroeu's landscape and in the world of its owner, Giancarlo Morelli. He sees it as an invitation to wonder, a means to pay tribute to a region specialized in exceptional craftsmanship, and as a way to continually transform the atmosphere of his restaurant with personal touches that follow spontaneous inspiration.
This year, in particular, Pomiroeu is adorned with 30 colorful plastic wolves created from regenerated plastic by Cracking Art, celebrating its 30 years of activity. The wolf symbolizes the importance of teamwork and shared rules for the well-being of all, vital aspects not only in an artistic collective but also in a restaurant.
From the kitchen to the dining room, Pomiroeu benefits from a young, close-knit, and cheerful team, which shows Chef Morelli's commitment to never resting on his laurels (despite the recognition from the public) and always striving for growth by surrounding himself with new stimuli and energy.
At the same time, Morelli doesn't shy away from the idea of leaving his legacy to future generations, guiding them on the right path to continue a high-level dining experience and perhaps maintain the establishment's purpose, which, since 1840, has been a place for stories of food and people, aiming to make the dining table a hub for gathering and sharing. For now, it's enough to say that Pomiroeu leaves you with a smile and the desire to return to discover the future evolutions of a place that, despite achieving many milestones and receiving accolades, keeps finding new inspiration to renew its concept of hospitality, always rooted in familiarity, memories, and beauty.
Seregno via G. Garibaldi 37