It's not the first story of downshifting, the one about Contra, a Michelin-starred restaurant in New York, which had made a name for itself with a gastronomic 5-courses menu priced at just 55 euros. Now, even "bistronomy" isn't enough anymore: the trend calls for small plates and natural wines.
The news
The New York gastronomic scene is changing. Ten years ago, when Jeremiah Stone and Fabian von Hauske, aged 28 and 23 respectively, arrived, their offering was groundbreaking: a no-frills tasting menu consisting of 5 courses for just $55, targeting a new generation of gourmets. But now everything seems suddenly different, and they're embracing the trend: that's why they'll be closing their Michelin-starred restaurant Contra in October, as recently reported by Robb Report.
"Our type of dining has died out, that middle segment that tries to be fine dining and a bit casual at the same time. Among our restaurants, Contra is the most personal and the one that requires the most time. I spent half my youth chasing stars and rankings, but they really don't matter. They don't translate into a sustainable and successful business. As you get older, you prefer a more solid company," comments von Hauske, born in Mexico City and having worked at Nordic sanctuaries like Fäviken and Noma, while Stone, originally from Maryland, explored Paris and bistronomy.
Raising the bar would mean moving to a "humble" location or undergoing a radical renovation, both of which would require significant investments. They chose to reshape their offering, which they will present to their regulars and industry professionals within the current year. "Many places are specializing in small dishes and natural wines. We're becoming part of the trend."
"It's been very exciting," adds Stone. "We were simply returning to cooking in a humble way. A sauce might not be as refined as in New York, but when you tasted it, it was amazing. We eliminated all the excess." They call it "Modern American," even though French, Spanish, and Japanese influences are evident. "It remains a New York restaurant. Here, everyone is trying to make it into the 50 Best or be a club, but the world we grew up in no longer exists. That's not what we're looking for." The two will continue to run the other four restaurants they operate (Wildair, Jac's on Bond, Peoples, and Day June in Catskills), but Contra will return as well. "We still want it, but in a different location and with a bit more resources. We're looking to take a break and restart."
Cover photo: @Contra NY
