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Where to Eat in Rome: 10 Creative Eateries for Pop Fine Dining in the Capital City

by:
Francesca Feresin
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copertina fine dining pop roma 47 circus roof garden

Unconventional Culinary Artistry; Pure Fun; The Joy of Sharing a Table Without Formalities. This is the attitude with which the featured establishments approach their tables – popular, fine dining spots that offer a high-quality culinary experience, breaking some etiquette rules.

The selction

In recent years, Rome has become a veritable gastronomic destination, filled with fine dining restaurants that are anything but stiff. These are places where the experience can be summed up in a single word: enjoyable. There's no stuffy service, no formalities, no set patterns. The service is graceful and cheerful, yet remarkably skilled and engaging in describing dishes or suggesting wine, the latter discovered who knows where, paired with intricate dishes that remain intuitive in flavors and memory for each of us.

Acquasanta

acquasanta piatto
 

We're in Testaccio, within an aquarium enclosed by expansive windows overlooking the neighborhood's busiest square. Acquasanta is an illuminated restaurant, born in a neighborhood where coexisting with the traditional Roman gastronomic scene is challenging. It's a place that year after year, thanks to the skills of the ownership and the kitchen, has built a loyal clientele of enthusiastic friends who return to try the new menus and wines in the cellar. Yes, because Acquasanta is an excellent establishment both for its dishes and beverages. Chef Enrico Camponeschi takes care of the dishes, astonishing with increasingly exuberant creations that are charismatic and irresistibly fun, whether they're fish, meat, or vegetable-based. Among the latest dishes, it's worth trying the "Mancini" spaghettone, vegetable demi-glaze, sour cream, and samphire, as well as the dessert topinambur, dark chocolate, lemon, created by the talented and skilled Giulia Fusillo, who is also a master of level bread-making. And speaking of the wine cellar: it continually evolves thanks to the curiosity of Alessandro Bernabei, the owner of Acquasanta and other successful ventures in and around Rome.

Almatò

Almato
 

Let's move to the Prati district for Almatò, the concentrated essence of ideas from three young friends born and raised on rugby fields – Alberto Martelli, Manfredi Custureri, and Tommaso Venuti. The latter is also the restaurant's chef, known for dishes with a mature and sincere taste, sometimes round, sometimes sharp and ancestral, where components that are sometimes humble, sometimes elite, are infused with acidic and radiant oscillations. There are three tasting menus of 5, 7, and 9 courses to try at the tables of the intimate glass-enclosed dining area that overlooks the street. Among the dishes currently on the menu, don't miss the Quaglia alla diavola (Diavola’s quail) with sumac and yuzu puree, as well as the Risotto with oysters, lemon, and fennel, and the pork neck with bell pepper, chinotto, and capers. Serving each dish and expertly selecting the best wine pairings is Riccardo Robbio.

Bistrot64

bistrot64 staff
 

Just a few days ago, Bistrot 64 in the Flaminio district, on via Calderini, came back to life and returned to its roots, marking a decade since its opening. Emanuele Cozzo, the creator and owner, is back in the dining room, along with Giacomo Zezza, who was a sous chef under Kotaro Noda for years and now leads the kitchen. The small dining room exudes an informal ambiance with brown armchairs and sofas, wooden tables, and two main marble-topped tables. The furnishings are simple yet elegant, with no extravagant elements. A beautiful marble counter serves as a divider, with four stools on one side for seating and dining, while on the other side, it becomes the workspace for the serving staff. The menu is brief and concise, with three dishes per section, alongside traditional options like amatriciana and carbonara, also available in half portions. There are two tasting options: "The 10 Years" with 5 courses priced at 75 euros and "PrimaEra" with 8 courses priced at 95 euros. The wine cellar holds around 200 labels, and it's set to expand over time with the guidance of the sommelier and dining director, Nikola Bacalu.

Bottega Tredici

Bottega tredici 3 2023 08 15 23 37 04
 

Nestled in a corner of the Ghetto, Bottega Tredici is the restaurant of three very young individuals who offer substantial yet not heavy dishes on custom-designed porcelain. These dishes are Roman without being autarchic, contemporary yet not ordinary. We're on Via dei Falegnami, in a small space that's perfectly organized. Here, Roberto Bonifazi and Francesco Brandini handle the kitchen, while Daniele Gizzi charms customers in the dining room with belly-filling proposals. One such option is the ever-present Gnocco stuffed with pecorino cream, Amatriciana sauce, and crispy guanciale. Equally impressive are appetizers like the Tarte tatin with bell pepper, Grana Padano, and lemon, or the charcoal-grilled "cbt" octopus with sautéed chicory, crispy peppers, Taggiasca olives, and garlic cream. The changing seasonality of risottos and the flawlessly executed classic Roman first courses also stand out. It's impossible not to pair these dishes, whether chosen à la carte or from one of the two tasting menus, with wines sourced by Daniele from around Italy.

Campocori - Hotel Chapter

Campocori Chapter
 

We're just steps away from the Ghetto, inside one of the most captivating new hotels in the capital. Its name is Chapter, and it conceals a fine dining restaurant on the ground floor of the establishment. It's right there, behind the entrance, on the left. The sign reads Campocori, a name that pays homage to the now-vanished Church of St. Maria in Campo Cori, which occupied the area where the hotel now stands during the Middle Ages. It's the home of the young and always smiling chef Alessandro Pietropaoli. Here, around the carefully selected marble tables of the restaurant, where a non-stuffy fine dining atmosphere prevails, the chef amazes with dishes that follow their own unique rhythm. The journey ranges from a robust mackerel with plums and sobacha to a surprising "Ancient Roman" spaghetti, flavored with onion garum that astonishes right from the aroma. Entertaining, informal, and convivial is the Tribute to Anzio, a mixed pasta dressed with a concentrated seafood sauce and raw fish and shellfish. It's a must to mop up every plate with the excellent buttery and Maldon salt-flaked puff pastry. The service is punctual, and the wine list, curated by Sean Mac Donald, is comprehensive. There are three tasting menus to choose from, with options of 4, 5, and 7 courses.

Carter Oblio

copertina carter oblio
 

In the Prati area, an address not to be missed is Carter Oblio, a young establishment led by chef Ciro Alberto Cucciniello. Representing a fine dining experience that's both pop and informal, capable of surprising with humble ingredients crafted with maturity and flair. Among the flagship dishes, Carote Carote Carote continues to stand out—an entirely vegetable-based appetizer revolving around a single ingredient. Here, the carrot takes on multiple forms: there's caramelized carrot cream, pressure-cooked in its extract, followed by delicate preparations of Polignano carrots. From the yellow variety, a fettuccine is prepared, treated as pasta, then dried and boiled, and finally seared with an open flame. And then there are the orange and purple Polignano carrots cooked confit-style with thyme, culminating in a crunchy carrot crumble. Let's not forget the Chef's work on bread-making: among the newest breads, there's one inspired by Risotto Milanese, with saffron, Parmigiano, beef broth, and the Babà broccoli and sausage, with a cheese and pepper soak and a brushing of garlic and oil. There are two possible tasting menus, with 5 or 7 courses, which can be complemented by a selection of wines from small primarily Italian producers.

Dogma

dogma
 

In February 2022, Gabriele di Lecce and Alessandra Serramondi lifted the shutters of one of the most intriguing restaurants on the Roman scene, where having a meal is a must, at least once in a lifetime. Especially if you love seafood, grilling, and glasses of wine rich in surprises. The name of this establishment is Dogma. We're in the San Giovanni neighborhood, in a small, unpretentious venue illuminated by Alessandra's service and Gabriele's incredible dishes. None of them falls short of the others: try as many creations as possible, from the "our way" Oyster to the Fish Skewer, and don't forget about the desserts. Among them all, the Almond Paris Brest with vanilla and seasonal fruit remains in the heart. The prices are more than reasonable: consider that the 5-course Trappeur tasting menu is only 48 euros.

Marzapane

Antonio Altamura 2
 

It has just celebrated its 10th anniversary, Marzapane, a beloved establishment for many Romans passionate about good food. The owner, Mario Sansone, is an entrepreneur who dares to change while preserving key aspects, such as quality and competence. There are now two chefs behind the restaurant counter, Antonio Altamura and Alessandro Esposito, both advocates of a dynamic cuisine based on dishes that change daily according to market ingredients, all sourced from the best surrounding farms. Intuitive dishes, without frills, to be enjoyed à la carte or through a five-course tasting menu, perhaps on the beautiful terrace on the top floor of the building that houses the entire restaurant. Lastly, the experience at the counter with a surprise 10-course menu is highly recommended.

Relais Le Jardin - Hotel Lord Byron

Massimo Viglietti
 

We need to step back to the early days of the 1980s when entrepreneur Amedeo Ottaviani decided to invest in a former convent hidden in the Parioli district and transform it into what is now the Relais Le Jardin restaurant and the Hotel Lord Byron that hosts it. Over the years, the establishment has been known for its style and elegant furnishings, direct evidence of Amedeo's love for Art Nouveau and Art Deco. The restaurant has received numerous national and international awards over time, including two Michelin stars in the late 1980s. Today, the establishment is managed by Francesco Piccinni, Amedeo's grandson, who, with the help of the entire family, aims to improve an already renowned structure and make the conceptual and entrepreneurial path started by his grandfather current and contemporary. How? By entrusting the kitchen to Massimo Viglietti, a unique and exceptional chef in the field, a master in creating surprising pairings with astonishing flavors. Four tasting menus are available: Concerto, Viaggio, Impressioni, and Emozioni, in addition to à la carte options. Among the must-try dishes is the Felicetti spaghetti with red mullet, foie gras, and caviar. A rich dish, entirely free of added salt. The extensive wine cellar and offerings from the cocktail bar are not to be underestimated.

47Circus Roof Garden

247 Circus Roof Garden 47 Hotel
 

On the top floor of the 47 Boutique Hotel, born from the establishment's desire to create a unique place in the heart of Rome for relaxation surrounded by design objects and original unique pieces from the 1960s and 1970s, the 47 Circus Roof Garden restaurant is renewed with the gourmet Mediterranean cuisine of the new chef, Michele Giovannini. Here, with a panoramic 360-degree view of the eternal city, from Circo Massimo to Piazza Venezia, you can experience an adventure of fun, art, and sustainability. Among the dishes to try are the Quail with breast and leg prepared in various ways, asparagus, medlar, and lime powder, or the Amberjack, compressed green apple, almond cream, and 'nduja powder, leading to the excellent smoked herring Plin, cream, chamomile, and asparagus. There is also a six-course tasting menu and an inspiration menu with four chef's choice courses.

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