There are also success stories in the aftermath of Covid, like the two chefs from Ducasse's Thai restaurant who flew to California to open their own place. They got right to work, perfected the format, and got a Star.
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The restaurant, easy to predict, would never be the same after Covid due to a myriad of reasons: downshifting, the great resignation, bankruptcies, and soaring costs, among others. However, there are also stories that instill optimism, such as that of Max Boonthanakit and Lijo George. Two who, at the very moment when the world was sinking, found the courage to jump into a lucky lifeboat.
Back in the day, the two worked at Blue by Alain Ducasse, a Michelin-Starred restaurant in Bangkok, twice sealed by lockdowns and reopened. "But we simply needed to cook," Max, who was born in Atlanta to Asian parents, recounts today. For his part, Lijo, who is of Indian descent, wanted to leave Thailand, heading rather for Australia or California, where he also had never set foot. "I thought it was a very open and welcoming land. It's the California culture." It was the owners of their current restaurant, Camphor in Los Angeles, who stepped forward, overcoming initial resistance.
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They opened last February, and since then, Camphor, which immediately won a star, has established itself as one of the city's trendiest restaurants. If the atmosphere and format trace those of a French bistro, following Ducassian teachings, the cuisine often indulges in spicy contaminations from Southeast Asia. "In this parallel universe, where France and India share a border, we are a small bistro on the French side, welcoming Indian visitors crossing the border. It's about leaving the taste pure. We experiment at times, but we always try to take a step back and make the experience easier and more accessible for guests," Max points out.
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The dishes are all four-handed in concept and execution, shining with minimalism and exactness. "We always aspire to new flavors. Even if you make chicken, try to change it!" urges Lijo. "We have a fairly simple scallop dish on the menu, seasoned with vinegar, soy and a little maple syrup. It's sour, savory, and sweet, and we keep everything separate in squeeze containers. It's a permanent practice on seasoning, and there's a moment when everyone clicks."
Max and Lijo are still very young, but the mentorship mentality is already there. "Having young blood in the kitchen and on the team makes a big difference. Then if someone makes a mistake, the most important thing is to make them understand why." So much so that they are looking forward to bringing old Bangkok kitchen mates to Los Angeles, including Blue's chef Wilfrid Hocquet. "Everyone is welcome at Camphor."
Source: guide.michelin.com
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