A dish that, for over four generations, has captivated chefs and gourmets around the world—from Paul Bocuse to Gualtiero Marchesi—demonstrating how country cuisine can reach the highest heights of culinary expression without ever losing its “sense of place.”
Perfection encased in a fresh pasta shell: Nadia Santini’s tortelli have always been this way; a layer of pasta ready to seal the harmony between the velvety texture of the pumpkin, the zing of the mostarda, and the comforting hint of amaretti. The chef’s recent passing—she was the first woman on the Italian Peninsula to earn three Michelin stars in 1996—leaves Italian cuisine with this and other small masterpieces, still featured on the menu at Dal Pescatore in Runate.
Nadia’s Secrets: The Anatomy of a 3-Michelin-Star Tortello
Behind the seemingly minimalist appearance of Nadia’s pumpkin tortello lies a meticulous attention to proportions and detail. Nothing is left to chance, and yet nothing is designed to dazzle; instead, everything serves to let the star ingredient shine. It all starts with traditional cooking methods: unlike modern recipes, which often call for drying the pumpkin in the oven to make handling easier, Nadia has always championed the original tradition. The fall vegetable must be thoroughly softened in lightly salted and sweetened water (to compensate for the natural loss of juices), then strained and squeezed until every trace of residual liquid is removed. The character of the mostarda also plays a key role: no over-processed mixtures here; the tart and spicy kick of the filling comes from the fruit-based mustard, historically prepared with white watermelon grown in family gardens, which delivers a sharp, clean burst of flavor on the palate.
The filling is pure poetry: the roundness of the fruit meets the slightly bitter edges of the crumbled amaretti (once made from peach or apricot seeds preserved from the summer), the savory richness of Parmigiano Reggiano, and a subtle aroma of nutmeg, cinnamon, and cloves. Unbelievable, but true: in the end, no single element overpowers the others. On top, the dough is rolled out extremely thin with flour, a whole egg, and an egg yolk to add color and elasticity. Sealed strictly by hand in a candy-shaped or diagonal fold, it encloses about 6–8 grams of filling, with the edges pressed firmly to ensure not even a single air bubble remains trapped. The extra secret? A sage leaf—which is omitted, as it might distract from the flavor. The tortello must be served on its own, dressed only with a little alpine butter and a light sprinkling of Parmigiano Reggiano.
Dal Pescatore’s Pumpkin Tortelli Recipe
Serves 4
Ingredients for the filling
- 300 g cooked pumpkin, passed through a sieve (starting with a raw slice weighing about 350 g)
- 20 g chopped amaretti
- 50 g mustard-flavored fruit chutney
- 20 g grated Parmigiano Reggiano
- Pepper, salt, nutmeg, cloves, and cinnamon to taste
Ingredients for the dough
- Flour as needed
- 1 whole egg + 1 egg yolk
For serving
- Butter and grated Parmigiano Reggiano to taste
Instructions
Cooking the pumpkin: Take a slice of pumpkin weighing about 350 g and cook it for about 30 minutes in lightly salted and sweetened water (a little trick to compensate for the sugars lost during cooking), until it becomes as soft as a boiled potato.
The filling: Peel the pumpkin and pass it through a sieve. In a bowl, combine the resulting purée with the chopped amaretti, the finely chopped mostarda, the Parmigiano Reggiano, and a pinch of each spice. Mix well and let the mixture rest in a cool place while you prepare the dough.
The Dough: Form a well in the flour on a work surface and crack the egg and egg yolk into the center. Knead the dough thoroughly until it is uniform, smooth, and porous. Using a rolling pin or pasta machine, roll out the dough into a thin sheet and cut it into squares with sides measuring about 8 cm.
Sealing: Place a teaspoon of filling (about 6–8 g) in the center of each square. Fold the dough diagonally, bringing the corners together; fold the edge slightly inward and press firmly around the filling to remove all the air.
Cooking and serving: Drop the tortelli into a large pot of boiling salted water and cook for 5 minutes. Gently drain them and toss them directly on the plates with melted butter and plenty of Parmigiano Reggiano.
Address
Dal Pescatore
Località Runate 15, Runate, 46013, Italy
Phone: 0376723001
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