It’s not just a matter of pulling down the shutter or turning off the stoves. When the last lunch service is served on Saturday, October 17, an era will come to a close in Madrid.
After more than sixty years of captivating aromas, iconic cocktails, and a warm, family-like welcome, the historic Cuban restaurant Zara — first at 5 Calle Infantas and later at 8 Via Barbieri — bids its customers a final farewell. A farewell that leaves an unfillable void in the culinary landscape and in the fond memories of the Spanish capital.
Changing Consumer Habits and the Burden of Management
The restaurant industry has changed profoundly. As current owners Inés (67) and her husband Jorge (69) explained to the newspaper El País, public habits have changed radically since the pandemic: people rarely go out during the week, they spend more cautiously, and foot traffic is concentrated almost exclusively on weekends: “People are drinking less, eating less, and everything is managed with much greater care, especially when it comes to prices.”
Keeping a restaurant alive where “dedication must be total” no longer holds the same value as it once did. Added to this is a decisive emotional factor: the decision to refuse to sell the brand or the license. Passing the torch to strangers would have betrayed the original spirit of a business that has always been, first and foremost, an extension of the family home.
Beneath the checkered tablecloths: cuisine rooted in heart and tradition
Sitting down at one of the tables with Zara’s iconic red-and-white checkered tablecloths meant embarking on an immediate culinary journey between Havana and Spain. The culinary offerings have always stayed true to their authentic and genuine roots:
- Signature dishes: The legendary ropa vieja (shredded beef stewed with onions and bell peppers) served on a bed of white rice, picadillo criollo garnished with fried plantains, crispy fried yuca, and a fresh avocado salad.
- The perfect pairing: The legendary house daiquiri, an essential cocktail that accompanied every gathering and turned every dinner into a celebration among friends.
- Fusion and memories: From the daily specials that combined Caribbean stews with traditional Spanish dishes like cocido madrileño, fabada, or pote gallego, to the more recent creations introduced by Inés, the daughter, such as Friday’s enchilada.
From the Staircases of Havana to Chueca: A Family Novel
The roots of this adventure go back to December 1957, when José Alberto “Pepe” Martínez Alonso and Inés María Llanos Braña met on the majestic staircases of the Centro Asturiano in Havana. It was love at first sight, straight out of a movie, followed by marriage and the decision to flee the Cuban Revolution in 1961. Upon arriving in Madrid in 1964, they took over a small café. The name “Zara”? Here’s a curious anecdote: the previous owner, originally from Zaragoza, hadn’t had enough money to complete the sign, leaving only the first four letters. Starting as a simple neighborhood café—where they first cooked for themselves and then offered samples to customers—Pepe and Inés transformed that spot into a cultural and culinary landmark for generations of Madrileños and Cuban émigrés.
In 2021, just twenty days apart, Pepe and Inés passed away from COVID-19 after 63 years together. With their passing, and the well-deserved retirement of their daughter Inés and her husband Jorge, the curtain falls on a temple of authentic hospitality where cooking was not merely a business, but a pure and generous act of love.
