Fine Dining

“You don’t need too many ingredients for a great dish: simplicity and perfection are what make haute cuisine.” Luca’s and the purity of flavor

by:
Matilde Morselli
|
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“Act II” is the title of the seven-course tasting menu offered by Luca’s, a culinary journey that traces the evolution of the project curated by Paulo Airaudo and Vittorio De Palma. A narrative built around the centrality of fresh ingredients, culinary technique, and the ability to highlight the essence of each ingredient. All set in one of Florence’s finest hotels.

*Content with promotional purposes 

Via dei Cavalieri is located in the heart of Florence, a city that symbolizes art and the Italian Renaissance, known worldwide for being the birthplace of figures who have helped make Italy an international cultural hub and for its ability to blend history, beauty, and excellence. It is in this setting that Luca’s, located within the Hotel La Gemma, comes to life—one of the premier destinations for luxury hospitality in Florence and ranked second among Florence’s hotels at the 2025 Condé Nast Traveler Readers’ Choice Awards.

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A restaurant renowned for its elegance, attention to detail, impeccable hospitality, and outstanding service, it provides the ideal setting for a culinary concept that has quickly become a benchmark in the world of fine dining. Created by chef Paulo Airaudo, Luca’s was conceived as an expression of contemporary cuisine, capable of combining innovation, technique, and a focus on the finest ingredients, with an international perspective and an increasingly distinct identity.

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PAULO AIRAUDO’S ITALIAN DEBUT: A CELEBRATION OF EXCELLENCE

Located on the first floor of the hotel, in a setting where Art Deco charm blends with tropical influences, Luca’s opened its doors in 2023. Paulo Airaudo is one of those names that, for industry insiders and food connoisseurs alike, needs no introduction, and summarizing his career in just a few lines might seem reductive. After gaining experience in legendary kitchens such as Arzak and The Fat Duck, he chose Luca’s for his debut in Italy—a debut that confirmed his talent: in November 2025, the restaurant earned a Michelin star, bringing the total number of stars Airaudo has earned throughout his career to nine.

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LUCA’S AND THE CULTURE OF DETAIL: PRECISION, PREPARATION, AND PROFESSIONALISM

The spaces that house Luca’s reflect the historic and sophisticated allure that characterizes La Gemma: each room offers a contemporary interpretation of Palazzo Paoletti’s heritage, maintaining a constant dialogue with the history of the building that houses it. Shades of green, in a variety of hues, alternate with a palette of neutral colors, while the paneled woodwork adorning the walls is a detail that is anything but insignificant when it comes to elegance—a quality further enhanced by a clean and minimalist table setting that allows the dishes to take center stage and showcases the culinary offerings, even from a visual perspective.

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The service is impeccable and is overseen by Giovanni Meraviglia, Restaurant Manager at Luca’s, who brings to the project the experience he gained within Massimo Bottura’s Francescana Family: the attention given to guests is unwavering and is complemented by a high level of expertise, including in the area of food and wine pairing. The resident chef is Vittorio De Palma, a 26-year-old native of Campania who has forged his career with determination in the kitchens of some of the most prestigious international restaurants. His path crossed with that of Paulo Airaudo, and he served as sous chef first at Amelia, a two-Michelin-star restaurant in San Sebastián, and subsequently—until December 2025—at Noi by Paulo Airaudo in Hong Kong, another establishment recognized with two Michelin stars.

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These experiences have allowed him to develop a philosophy perfectly aligned with Airaudo’s, based on a shared vision of cuisine, technique, and the celebration of fresh ingredients. “We both believe in the concept of ‘less is more’; we prefer to highlight just a few ingredients, chosen with care and prepared to perfection. It is precisely this pursuit of simplicity executed with precision that represents our vision of cuisine: ours is an ongoing dialogue that guides every decision,” explains De Palma.

ACT II: SEVEN COURSES TO TELL THE STORY OF THE EVOLUTION OF LUCA’S CUISINE

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“Act II” is the title of the seven-course tasting menu offered by Luca’s, a culinary journey that tells the story of the evolution of Paulo Airaudo’s project through food. A narrative built around the centrality of raw ingredients, technique, and the ability to highlight the essence of each ingredient. The bread service reflects Luca’s culinary philosophy of how crucial it is to place products and ingredients at the center: the semi-whole-wheat loaf and homemade breadsticks are served with Laudemio Extra Virgin Olive Oil, a true gem of Tuscan olive cultivation, chosen to enhance the bread’s aroma and offer a first glimpse of the connection between the cuisine and the region. From here, the dining experience really gets underway with the first course:an artichoke and vanilla consommé, which delicately and precisely introduces the menu’s signature style. The pairing begins with Mattaglio Blanc de Blancs from Cantina della Volta, a 100% Chardonnay aged on the lees for at least 48 months—a wine distinguished by its elegance and structure. The tasting continues with the amuse-bouches, an interplay of traditional elements and contemporary influences: Smoked Mackerel Tartlet with Red Turnip and Fresh Wasabi; Vol-au-vent with Sudachi Béchamel and Sweetbread.

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Sweetbreads, an ingredient deeply rooted in Florentine culinary tradition, are reinterpreted with a more contemporary sensibility, while maintaining a strong connection to the region: “We’re in the heart of Florence: we strive to be contemporary, but respect for Tuscan food and wine culture remains central”, says Giovanni Meraviglia. The Ventresca Katsuobushi Gelée, Ventresca Tartare, and Oscietra Caviar round out the chef’s welcome, revealing how Eastern influences enrich the composition of Luca’s dishes. Nephrops, Champagne Sauce, and Foie Gras finds its counterpoint in a Sauternes served in a vintage style: over ice, as was customary in the 1980s. Reinterpreting this spirit is SolAlto 2022, a wine born in the Tuscan Maremma from an elegant blend of Sémillon, Sauvignon, and Traminer, crafted by Elisabetta Geppetti. On the palate, the Champagne sauce enhances the natural savory notes of the scampi and complements its delicate sweetness, while the foie gras, with its smoky and slightly spicy nuances, adds a deeper dimension to the dish.

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The meal continues with Raw Trout, Purple Shrimp, Piennolo Tomato Water, and Ume Kosho, paired with Rosato 2025, a rosé wine produced by Nervi Conterno and made from 100% Nebbiolo grapes. The dish is built on a balance that conceals a certain complexity—an added value, as the various nuances of its components make it truly intriguing: the Piennolo tomato water helps cut through the richness of the fish, while the Ume Kosho—a dressing made from ume plums—offers a savory, umami-rich profile with an elegant and measured acidity. The tasting continues with Fontanafredda’s Langhe DOC Chardonnay “Ampelio,” paired with the first courses: Quail Plin, Albufera Sauce, Sweet Chili, Lemongrass and Sage Oil, and Risotto with Provola Cheese Broth, Sanremo Purple Shrimp, Wild Garlic, Pickled Lemon, and Spicy Oil.

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The Plin draws on Vittorio De Palma’s experience in the Langhe region, where he reinterprets one of the symbols of Piedmontese tradition: fresh, stuffed egg pasta filled with a ragù made from whole quail. The Albufera sauce, a classic of haute cuisine, complements the dish with its rich texture, while sweet chili is used to add character and a subtle intensity without disrupting the dish’s balance. Lemongrass and sage round out the dish with a fresh, balsamic note. In the second first course, De Palma’s Campania influences come to the fore through the use of Agerola provola and “olio forte,” a characteristic element of Neapolitan tradition. Grouper, Saffron Bouillabaisse, Trout Roe, and Sea Fennel is a dish that captures the sea from various perspectives: the grouper, a deep-sea fish with delicate flesh, becomes melt-in-your-mouth tender thanks to precise cooking designed to retain its juices, and its character is enhanced by the richness of the saffron bouillabaisse, while the bitter note of the sea fennel is balanced by the savory flavor of the trout roe, which “explodes” in the mouth, imparting vibrancy and a lingering finish.

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This dish is paired with Sicut Erat Isola dei Nuraghi IGT, a 100% Vermentino that, after two months of maceration on the skins, ages for another 16 months in porous ceramic. The structure and depth of this wine perfectly complement the dish’s complexity. The menu continues with Veal, White Onion, and Cardoncello: a dish that draws on Florentine tradition with a contemporary twist. The veal fillet, cooked yakitori-style on a konro grill, remains tender and succulent, while the sauce evokes the famous Peposo del Brunelleschi, the historic peppered meat stew that originated during the construction of Florence’s Duomo. This reinterpretation plays on the aromatic balance of three different peppers—long, green, and Jamaican—a trio of spices that enhance the veal, where the onion highlights the sweetness and the earthy notes of the Cardoncello mushrooms bring the dish full circle. The wine pairing? It stays true to the dish’s concept: Querciabella’s Chianti Classico Riserva, made from 100% Sangiovese grapes sourced from selected vineyards, is the ideal partner in crime thanks to its structure and elegance.

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We’re nearing the end of this tasting menu, a journey that has so far left a lasting impression thanks to the chef’s dedication to crafting complex flavor profiles—ones that play as much on textures as on nuanced flavors. The pre-dessert Parsley and coconut sorbet, lemon oil, and Maldon salt is a refreshing offering, perfect for wrapping up the main courses and preparing the palate for dessert. Here, parsley steps out of its comfort zone, moving beyond its role as a simple aromatic element to become the star of the dish, alongside the exotic touch of coconut, the freshness of lemon oil, and the savory depth of Maldon salt.

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Ratafia Rosé de Meunier from the Vallée de la Marne, produced by Michel Laval, is a wine with a strong terroir identity and sophistication that pairs perfectly with the dessert Goat Cheese Flan with Cherry Caramel and Balsamic Vinegar. Served with a crisp wafer—a touch designed to maintain the interplay of contrasts between textures—it features a detail that is anything but insignificant: 40-year-aged balsamic vinegar from Modena. The elegant finale offered by Luca’s is reflected in the selection of petit fours: a Strega liqueur-based jelly; a nougat made with hazelnuts, almonds, and red berries, with a predominance of raspberry; a dark chocolate craquelin served with caramel cream; and a classic hazelnut madeleine.

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A JOURNEY OF GROWTH BASED ON CONSISTENCY, RESEARCH, AND EXCELLENCE

The experience at Luca’s concludes with the sense of a journey built with a clear direction: starting from solid foundations—such as ingredients of the highest quality—prepared through a minimalist culinary approach where technique always serves the unique characteristics that the ingredients naturally offer. Cultural fusion thus becomes a deliberate tool, capable of enriching the culinary offering without distorting core values or historical references. The result? A menu whose complexity is perfectly accessible, supported by sophisticated wine pairings designed to enhance each dish while simultaneously preserving the distinctive characteristics of the featured wines. Luca’s thus demonstrates its own identity, drawing on key elements of Tuscan cuisine and beyond, and developing them through international influences and fusion without losing coherence or direction. This approach firmly upholds the highest standards established by Airaudo and carried forward with great discipline and focus by Vittorio De Palma, with the ambition of solidifying its place in the world of fine dining.

Address

Hotel La Gemma - Luca’s

Via Dei Cavalieri 2C, 50123, Florence (IT)

EMAIL: info@lagemmahotel.com

Hotel Phone: +39 055 0105200

Website

 

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