A great chef, a dining room without a script, and a team that has chosen the path of empathy: Andrea Fenoglio demonstrates that the secret to longevity is the human factor (in fine dining and beyond).
Photo credits: Giovanni De Sandre, Sissi Restaurant
No forced “Hello”s or symphonies from the Opéra: at the entrance, we are greeted by the soft buzz of guests in relaxation mode. The only real rule is to let yourself go before even leaving your coat with the maître d', so much so that the chef—instead of hiding behind pots and pans—comes out to entertain customers in the dining room or wait at the door for the last gourmets to arrive. There is no doubt that Andrea Fenoglio's choreography in Merano is a bold leap outside the circle of fine dining; the fact remains that this is one of the few gourmet restaurants where no one has ever felt obliged to strut in like a penguin.
Two more steps and a glance: the team has its own outfit. The gray, tight-fitting uniforms have been left in the closets; here, it's important to move with ease (even when the pirouettes between the kitchen and the diners multiply in the wake of a full booking). You walk in and take your seat without feeling like just another reservation number; they explain and uncork without a hint of pre-written scripts. “No two services are exactly the same; people must be treated individually; it's up to us to find the right connection, because we know that a little extra care can really change the game,” comments Fenoglio, a chef with the makings of a host and a Michelin star for almost two decades. It is no coincidence that “Sissi” impressed us on our first dinner there, when we discovered that most of the guests were habitués, ranging from the curious to the devoted. And perhaps this is the only recipe that matters when it comes to filling seats in high-end restaurants.
The history of Ristorante Sissi: a change of pace in fine dining
“Why Sissi?” The answer is as basic as it is incisive: towards the end of the 19th century, the Austrian empress arrived in Merano to benefit from the spa treatments offered by the South Tyrolean town, becoming in a matter of months the forerunner of modern travel influencers with suitcase in hand (if communication is not an opinion, the choice to name the restaurant after her worked!). To frame the scene from above, however, we must go back to the period when a 23-year-old Fenoglio made his debut immediately after hotel school, finding employment in the very same place that now houses the restaurant and remaining for some time under the wing of the chef-mentor who ran it.
In 1991, ready to fly solo, he opened the restaurant Sissi in Via Plankenstein (where his Pizzeria Trecinquesette is located today, ed.). The premise? Few seats, meticulous service, and an ambitious menu—a small Big Bang in Tyrol. Thus, 1998 brought with it the need to expand the scope of operations. Meanwhile, the young chef had completed his apprenticeship, becoming an entrepreneur in his own right, and decided to take over the restaurant where he had started out. The rest is modern history, including the transformation of the ‘old Sissi’ into the aforementioned pizzeria - confirming the fact that a sophisticated restaurant can easily coexist with a pop menu, if it is the human factor that makes the difference. And now that we've given you a brief overview, we'll press the “back” button to sit down in a corner of that relaxed room described in the introduction.
The Sissi experience
Ariana is the lightning bolt that will allow you to enjoy a seven-course tasting with ease, so that each course “declares itself” from its name to its entire length. There is, in fact, the “Settepiatti” (130 euros), accompanied by the more streamlined option of the “Cinquepiatti” (120 euros, also with a vegetarian alternative) and the usual “free mix” of signature dishes and seasonal specialties (3 savory courses and dessert for 110, or a short menu with a smart sauce) . First impression? Whichever itinerary you choose, the pace of the meal will vary not only (and not so much) according to the needs of the kitchen staff, but also according to your personal desire to exchange a few words with the chef, to draw gradually from the cellar of 500 references, or—why not?—to laze around with a good spirit in your hand, prolonging the endorphins of dessert.
Returning to Ariana, those who manage to resist the temptation to choose freely from the wine list will be rewarded with a beautiful set of unusual pairings. In our case, we enjoyed the striking pairing of Cantina Pasqua's “Hey French” (a still white wine that blends different vintages, “challenging” French production with an ironic designer label) and the Scampi, vanilla and ginger, an unusual trio that we will return to in a few lines. Alongside Andrea Fenoglio is the skilled sous chef Jona Pattaro, who, at the time of writing, is on a “creative retreat” with the chef and the team to devise the menu for the reopening scheduled for March.
The dishes
The initial welcome is exactly the opposite of what one might easily imagine. No tartlets, mini-spheres with liquid fillings, or the usual crackers dotted with seeds: Andrea and Jona reverse the phases of matter with their liquid pizza. In front of us is a small glass filled with extra virgin olive oil, tomato water, and croutons in suspension; on top, the inevitable bite of mozzarella to slightly activate the jaw. Like “drinking” a crispy slice, with the taste buds hyperstimulated by concentrated sensations. The Chips made with double Pancetta Giovanna, smoked and cooked like prosciutto, crunch under the teeth. A crumbly snack and velvety topping: this is how the chef gilds the memory of a butcher's aperitif.
Surprise question: have you ever eaten a salad “with a spoon”? After pizza, it's time for vegetables: at Sissi, even lettuce changes state, reduced to a cream to accompany char with a delicate lavender fragrance. “We wanted to create an appetizer that simulated the idea of Caesar Salad without taking on its appearance,” explains Jona. Leaves disappear, augmented reality; we won't reveal the ingredients for copyright reasons. Suffice it to say that the full aftertaste combines vegetables and seasoning, thanks to the addition of oil to emulsify the green cream. In turn, the aroma emphasizes freshness, as the herb is used both in the fish marinade and in the garnish with serrated lavender.
Not to be overlooked is the Cardoncello mushroom with mushroom sauce, which in fact offers the same resistance to the knife as a fillet. This variety is naturally firm and somewhat similar to protein, which the kitchen staff emphasizes by creating a lively miso glaze. From mushroom to meat, from the echo of the forest to the burst of umami.
The spicy touch comes with scampi, vanilla, and ginger. Between the lines, a travel story: "In Catalonia, a land that has influenced both Andrea and me greatly, ‘suquet’ is everywhere, a shellfish sauce rich in bread and pronounced flavors. So we started with butter flavored with vanilla, lime, and ginger to whip up a similar preparation.“ But the final version came after a series of tests: ”The goal was to harmonize the ginger while maintaining the roundness of the vanilla." So, the rhizome undergoes a candying process with flavorings that balance tartness, spiciness, and overall softness. The result is a dish that is both daring and reassuring: something you've never tried before and would like to have again—if only it weren't time for the pasta.
The Maltagliati pasta serves as an intermediate treat: a first course with “camouflaged complexity” where the method does not overwhelm the senses. It tempts us with lamb sauce, Gran Capra fondue, and seasonal truffle shavings. Yet, despite the final flourish of a sumptuous duck leg and black cherry sauce, the “savory trophy” goes to the eggplant with foie gras mousse. “Paradoxically, among the dozens of cooking methods we have experimented with, the best remains the traditional one,” comments Jona. “E So, we roast it in the oven, using a series of tricks to keep the flesh firm yet juicy.” It's a matter of precision, of course: “We must have consumed 100 kilos of eggplant in a month to find the ideal ratio between product weight, heat, time, and humidity!” he continues with a smile. The result is clear to see, considering that the eggplant gives goose liver a run for its money, almost mimicking a filet alla Rossini.
The goodnight kiss is a “non-sweet dessert” Fenoglio school: “To create our desserts, we always start with the concept of a savory dish to which we add a little sugar. This reversal of perspective allows us to work on the synthesis, offering a satisfying yet clean taste”. 2025 saw the success of the Waldorf Salad, translated into a celeriac ice cream with classic reinforcing inserts, from apple to yogurt: the freestyle you don't expect at the end of dinner!
A little more about Merano: the “Fenoglio microcosm” from the star to the hotel
Goodnight kiss, we said, talking about Sissi's dessert. But the tour of Merano would be incomplete without spending at least one night in the former 19th-century residence that Andrea and Katalin Fenoglio have transformed into one of the city's leading hotels. “Out here, there used to be ‘only’ a farm and a vineyard,” confesses the chef. “Later, the palace was built, the only single building in the entire Steinach district (which is also the oldest and most charming in Merano, ed.).”
Entering this elegant period maison is like turning over an hourglass that lets its grains fall one by one: as many steps as there are memories engraved on wood or painted on furniture, of which Katalin reveals ancient anecdotes, expanding the concept of hospitality tout court. The objects have been rescued from the ravages of time, carefully restored, and destined to populate the 11 accommodations, including suites and interior rooms.
The only risk is losing track of time in front of an ancient decorated portal, a series of dark green majolica tiles reminiscent of the local stoves, or the tables from the first-class waiting room of Trento station in the breakfast room. Speaking of breakfast, stop and chat with Barbara—the chef's invaluable assistant, primarily on the pastry side—over a tray of almond biscuits still warm from the oven, a tartlet with fruit and custard, or an omelet stuffed with South Tyrolean speck. The invitation to stay and return becomes a promise: to be continued.
Contacts
Steinach Townhouse
Via Haller, 21, 39012 Merano BZ
Phone: 0473 198 0000
Ristorante Sissi
Via Galileo Galilei, 44, 39012 Merano BZ
Phone: 0473 231062
