We all know his ham soufflé, the famous VGE soup, and the Tarte Tatin with an “apple mandala” that defies geometry. But Bocuse's pears in wine (long shrouded in secrecy) are proof that fruit can be used to make a textbook dessert.
Image of the chef on the cover: AFP-Getty
“Pears in wine” according to Bocuse: a classic legend
Not just a simple cooked fruit, but a dessert that transports your taste buds to France: Paul Bocuse used to serve pears at the end of a meal only if they were generously soaked in his beloved Beaujolais red wine. A recipe that, from the very first minutes in the oven, fills the kitchen with a blend of complementary fragrances, from cinnamon to vanilla, to the unexpected zest of orange peel. Easy to make? Not really, because the great chef preferred to cook them in a pan rather than in the oven: an upgrade that requires a certain amount of skill, as you have to prepare the fragrant syrup separately in which to simmer (and rest!) the pears until they are almost completely cooled. However, fear not: the most important step is sourcing the ingredients, because even one missing aroma—as we know—can throw off the balance of desserts based on a handful of essential products.
The French master's love of desserts
Like pears in wine, all of Paul Bocuse's desserts capture the essence of the farm basket with great clarity. Simplicity becomes noble in the Crème Brûlée, with that veil of caramelized sugar that breaks under the spoon, and in the Tarte Tatin (did you know that the chef used shortcrust pastry instead of puff pastry?), a symbol of domestic rituality refined by the precise cut of the apple. There is no shortage of ingenious “conversions” of desserts into appetizers, such as the ham soufflé, which has gone viral and is often served at the beginning of fine dining tastings.
100 years of legend
The centenary of his birth (on February 11, 1926, to be precise) is being celebrated today with a packed calendar of events honoring the “Chef of the Century” and his impact on international gastronomy. Among the most notable events are the celebratory menus at the Auberge du Pont de Collonges near Lyon (go there to savor a revival of dishes that have made history!), the issue of a commemorative stamp by the French Post Office, and the return of the legendary Soupe VGE, a “treasure chest” of golden puff pastry filled with truffles and foie gras, created in 1975 for the Élysée Palace. Among his signature dishes, the sea bass in puff pastry crust and the sumptuous chicken in bladder are also unforgettable. These creations are manifestos of beauty and method, still capable of inspiring a community of global chefs.
Paul Bocuse's pears in wine
Serves 6
Ingredients
- 12 small pears or 6 large pears
- 1 bottle of red wine (Beaujolais, Morgon)
- 150 g caster sugar
- 1 cinnamon stick
- 1 vanilla pod
- 6 black peppercorns
- 1 clove
- 1 untreated orange peel
- 1 glass of crème de cassis from Dijon
Preparation
Complete procedure from Marie Claire's website
Cut the vanilla pod in half lengthwise with a knife.
Pour the wine into a pot large enough to hold the pears. Add the sugar, orange zest, cinnamon, and vanilla pod.
Wrap the peppercorns and cloves in a small piece of cheesecloth and add them to the pan. Bring to a boil and simmer for 5 minutes.
Carefully peel the pears, leaving the stem intact.
Place them in the syrup and simmer gently for 20 minutes. Leave them to cool in the wine.
To serve, arrange the pears in a large bowl or deep dish with raised edges, then drizzle with the syrup and the chilled crème de cassis.
