A dish that is memory in motion: inspired by his devotion to broth, Massimiliano Alajmo has created this “new classic” dish covered in 24-carat gold leaf. A reminder that nourishment is sacred, in its purest form.
Images created by Sergio Coimbra for the book Fluidità by the Alajmo brothers
Few recipes, such as broths, can strike the nose with such a sharp olfactory stimulus that it anticipates the taste: with your eyes closed—and with a little practice—you could almost guess the list of ingredients. Yet, the fragrance is not the only unknown factor to be discovered in the equation of the most comforting “eat and drink” in the history of cuisine. Just think of the liaison between liquid and solid, which ultimately changes the game completely: while the bite recedes, the flavor rises in tone thanks to clever cooking techniques. Furthermore, the heat, astringency, and varying degrees of clarity mirror the extraction of the ingredients. It is therefore no coincidence that Massimiliano Alajmo's recipe book includes a dish that is as basic as it is precious. The result? Il Brodo Oro, a synthesis of domestic knowledge literally transported into fine dining. The process was revealed in the book Fluidità in 2013, but it had already been on the menu for a few years and subsequently saw several “special editions” alternate.
Broth according to Massimiliano Alajmo
According to the three-star chef at Le Calandre, broth “is a dish that, by contrast, sums up the essence. A liquid that is somehow chewable, capable of translating our concept of light and darkness.” And here comes the best part, because—while the chicken broth base remains unchanged—two new ingredients emerge from the pantry: on the one hand, licorice, a root hidden in the bowels of the earth; on the other, saffron, the flower that symbolizes sunshine. Alajmo explains it this way: "These elements connect the most extreme parts of the plant: the first low and deep, the second high and bright. Almost like a dialogue between opposites, the broth links origin and growth, birth and rebirth. In fact, the two components have similar and different characteristics: one enters the mouth bitter and leaves it sweet, the other sweet and leaves it bitter; it seems like a chase, a real relay of taste."
The broth revolution at Le Calandre: from aesthetics to the “philosophy of flavors”
The visual pursuit goes hand in hand with the flash effect, while still preserving a veil of mystery. Yes, because “the apparently ‘dark’ part, i.e., the dark powder, will only reveal golden reflections when exposed to light.” Viewed from above, the broth is iridescent, ethereal, and powerful at the same time: on the surface, 24-karat gold leaf, which at times evokes a sort of sacredness. Think, for example, of the background of an altarpiece or the glare of a mosaic: in a similar way, the “gastronomic faith” in a fluid that regenerates the body becomes a source of wealth. The chef explains further: “In this context, gold can represent the sacred, which can be perceived retrospectively in the subtle spicy and smoky nuances; but it is also a touch of irony, contrasting with a monastic-style dish of renunciation and concentration.”
Research into flavor: the broth of the future
The question now arises: what does it mean to taste broth created by one of the finest exponents of international haute cuisine? Alajmo explains that “saffron is combined with licorice in an extremely diluted form.” From there, a crescendo of perception begins, gradually fueled by incense. It means opening up to that sacredness we were talking about, amid aromas and progressive stimulation of the taste buds. And it is the most successful form of devotion there is: memory in motion.
The recipe
Cheek broth
- 1 liter of cold chicken broth
- 400 g of well-cleaned veal cheeks
- 25 g of diced carrots
- 25 g of diced white onion, previously blanched
- 20 g of diced celery
- 5 g of coarse salt
- 4 g of Sarawak black peppercorns
- 1 g of cinnamon stick
- ½ bay leaf
- 1 clove
- 1 pinch of salt
- 1 drop of liquid saffron
- 1 pinch of black licorice powder
Cook the cheeks sous vide with all the ingredients (except the saffron reduction and licorice powder) in a steam oven at 90°C for 4½ hours. Strain the cooking liquid through cheesecloth and flavor with the liquid saffron and licorice.
To finish
- 4 sheets of 24-karat edible gold
Composition
Pour the hot broth into a deep dish and garnish with a gold leaf.
Note: The cheeks used to prepare the broth can be seasoned with extra virgin olive oil, coarse salt, a pinch of licorice, a few drops of saffron extract, and served on a bed of boiled vegetables, such as carrots, red turnips, potatoes, and celeriac.
Contact
Le Calandre
Via Liguria, 1, 35030 Rubano PD
Telephone: 049 630303
