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I Due Buoi with Marco Molaro: the 30-year-old chef who surprises in a village of 110 inhabitants

by:
Roberto Mostini
|
copertina due buoi olivola

Originally from Friuli, but skilled in preparing Ligurian and Piedmontese recipes, Marco Molaro is a chef born in 1990 who reinterprets the great classics. In the noble residence of Villa Guazzo Candiani, a place not to be missed.

The location

A village of 110 inhabitants, not far from Casale Monferrato and its two motorway exits, then climbing up here, often in complete solitude, in search of a slice of serenity, far from everything, but not from quality. "Entering Olivola, you are greeted by a pleasant silence, broken only by birdsong and, here and there, by the sound of a television coming from the open windows of the houses. This peace is certainly not surprising, given the small size of the population. What is surprising, however, are the houses, which follow one after the other, united by two colors: the yellow of the stones with which they are built and the blue of the shutters, a regularity that makes the village quite unique."

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Yes, the quote reflects our approach, strolling along, waiting to enter the restaurant I Due Buoi, which was located in Alessandria years ago (and even awarded a Michelin star) thanks to the presence of Andrea Ribaldone. But now it has been moved here, preceded by a convenient and spacious parking lot, which is a good way to approach it, waiting to cross the threshold of this ancient building. Marco Molaro is now the brilliant chef.

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Langhe and Monferrato

In the 1980s and 1990s, the proportion was reversed. The most important and high-quality restaurants were in Monferrato, while there were very few high-end establishments in Langa. Then, in the new millennium, Langa exploded, and now boasts dozens of high-quality and very high-quality restaurants, while Monferrato remained marginal. However, in recent years, the level of restaurants in this corner of Piedmont has risen significantly. One of these is here, as soon as you walk through the gate and the door leading to the sumptuous entrance, which is a welcoming lounge, followed by a series of decorated and perfectly restored rooms, with elegantly set tables, spaced well apart.

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Villa Guazzo Candiani

This is the name of the building, whose open spaces lend themselves well to hosting events and ceremonies. If the weather is inclement, the indoor rooms provide a safe haven, where guests are looked after by the excellent maître sommelier Giuseppe Riccio, who comes from a distinguished background, and treated to culinary creations by Marco Molaro, who hails from Friuli but is skilled in preparing Ligurian and Piedmontese recipes.

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What to eat and how much it costs

The Ligurian influence associated with Piedmont is clearly evident on the menu, where we find Piedmontese staples such as Fassona beef tartare with its original condiments, as well as squid and chickpea zimino, which immediately transports you to the Riviera. Back in Piedmont with the inevitable ravioli del “plin”, and then digressions on the salt route, as summarized by cuttlefish & porcini mushrooms. Don't miss the cheese selection, before finishing with some very original desserts. All this for around €70-90. An impressive wine list, so you won't miss a thing.

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Contacts

Via Vittorio Veneto, 23, 15030 Olivola AL

Phone: 366 254 9251

Website

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