From his Friulian roots to the Croatian coast, Emanuele Scarello has redefined the boundaries of signature cuisine: in the post-war period, his was a simple trattoria, but over the years he has elevated his family to the Olympus of fine dining.
Whether or not there is a secret recipe for leaving your mark is unknown. What is certain is that Emanuele Scarello and his sister Michela have been able to make history in Friuli-Venezia Giulia and Croatia at the table, while always maintaining contact with the little things. Together, they carry on a philosophy that has deep roots and wide branches, capable of embracing the Adriatic and beyond. The first location in Godia, a small hamlet near Udine, is the beating heart of the story. The second, in Rovinj, Croatia, is where this story takes off.
The story of a post-war trattoria that now has two Michelin stars
It was 1887 when Agli Amici was founded in Godia, a small hamlet near Udine. It was mainly a tobacco shop, and it was only after World War II that it took on the appearance of a family trattoria specializing in fresh pasta. In the wake of the 1970s, Tino Scarello and his wife Ivonne Bodigoi began to refine the menu: he had become a sommelier, while she introduced a few timid fish dishes inspired by the strong French influence. The 1990s saw their children Emanuele and Michela take turns experimenting boldly, rooted in the great local raw materials, the voice of a decidedly winning interpretation. The first Michelin star arrived in 2001, followed by a second in 2013. A unique achievement that effectively placed the Scarello family in the Olympus of Italian success stories.
The driving force behind these achievements has undoubtedly been Chef Scarello's spirit. Curious and deeply knowledgeable about the land that surrounds him, he has always moved forward with confidence over the years. The land has always been his priority, and this is evident in every dish, where nature echoes in the mouth and continues to be reflected in the mind thanks to the vibrant colors of the ingredients. However, he is a man of substance, pragmatic, and he knows one thing well: “On the menu, everything revolves around the main course. That is the main dish, and that is what must surprise, not the pasta.” A provocation? Not really. Those who, like him, have hands-on experience of the land and its products and cultivate genuine relationships with small local producers have learned that perhaps the best way to show appreciation for a product is to let it take center stage, in its entirety.
Sustainability is no longer just an expression of keeping up with the times but a concrete approach, made up of short supply chains, integral use of raw materials, collaboration with local producers, and a “horizontal” menu that enhances the entirety of each ingredient. The vegetable garden and iconic local products—the Gorizia rose, Valle Pantani sea bass, Godia potatoes, and San Daniele ham—take center stage in two tasting menus: NaturalMente, featuring only vegetable dishes, and NuovaMente, combining sea and land.
Upon entering the restaurant, you are immediately struck by the spectacular design: geometric armchairs and a splendid open counter displaying fine cheeses, alongside a beautiful, polished slicing machine. The dining room, entrusted to the measured elegance and sensitive eye of Michela Scarello, creates an environment where contemporary style dialogues with Friulian simplicity, in a perfect balance between functionality and beauty. Michela is accompanied by the splendid waitresses, with their floral brooches pinned to the lapels of their jackets. The wine list—with over 900 labels—tells the story of the world, favoring natural, biodynamic, and signature wines, without ever losing its connection to Friuli. A special feature of Chef Scarello's cuisine is the omnipresent side dish: each course has another to accompany it.
"All the dishes on the tasting menu come with a small side dish, as a tribute to the culture of ingredients. The side dish is always the most comforting part of the meal," explains Michela. Just like the cuttlefish, crusco peppers, and sun-dried tomatoes with cuttlefish milk and soft potatoes. Elegance, smiles, and ice cream prepared in the dining room as in the old days accompany the clafoutis with cherries, the chef's favorite dessert.
Rovinj: the Istrian identity of the Scarello family
Founded in June 2021, Agli Amici Rovinj is the Scarello family's first venture abroad, created in collaboration with the Maistra Hospitality Group. It is located within the splendid Grand Park Hotel, which has 198 rooms and 11 suites. The hotel, situated on the east coast of Rovinj with a picturesque view of the old town, is a hub for wellness for body and mind: three swimming pools (outdoor infinity pool, sports pool, and relaxation pool), an adjacent beach, a cigar lounge, and a library with over 600 books translated into several languages, as well as Albaro Wellness & Spa, considered one of the best spas in the world.
In short, it is a real gem of hospitality that takes advantage of the natural beauty of the surrounding landscape, just like the terrace of Agli Amici, the restaurant that earned its first Michelin star just three months after opening. In June 2024, it also received its second star, making it the first and only restaurant in Croatia to achieve this recognition.
But what is the philosophy behind Chef Scarello's restaurant in Rovinj? The same as always: rigor, deep roots in the land, but also great openness. Istrian tradition and the gastronomic dialect of the Adriatic Sea intertwine with the Friulian vision of the chef, who has carefully selected fishermen, farmers, and small artisans of taste who can guarantee quality and sustainability. There are two tasting menus on offer: Rovinj, land bathed by the sea, and Istria, land kissed by the sun. “You immediately feel at home where your language is spoken and the land is so generous,” reads the last page of the menu.
The menu blends vegetables, seafood, and meat in a symphony of flavors. The kitchen is run by the talented Simone De Lucca, who follows Chef Scarello's footsteps with consistency and intensity in a refined yet relaxed atmosphere. Fresh flowers are always present on the table, heralding a certain pragmatic elegance, in true Scarello style. The first course is like a dip in the sea, reminiscent of ceviche with sea water and purple cabbage gel.
On the right, the scallop shell covers the other parts of the dish – from the nut to the tripe to the coral. Then the elderflower beurre blanc envelops the finish with softness. We move on to the Istrian scampi with grilled peas and risotto (strictly al dente) with lemon curd, mussels, sea foam, and coffee powder. But the real surprise is the tribute that the chef always pays to all his guests. A dish that until recently was on the menu: pennoni with sea herbs gathered on the coast of Rovinj, egg yolk marinated in soy sauce, fennel powder sautéed in a pan with dairy butter and Rovinj anchovies.
Just like in Godia, here too each main course has its side dish because, although there is no shortage of pennoni and risotto, it is true that at Agli Amici everything revolves around the main course, which is essential for the right balance of textures and flavors. The accompanying dishes are increasingly fluid, rich, and tactile. This is the case with the seppia d'oro, accompanied by raw cuttlefish cut with a knife and a hint of aloe vera lard, cooked in sea water.
Three kitchens, one vision
With the opening of the “Dopolavoro” in Venice in 2023, inside the JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa on the Isola delle Rose, the Scarello project will be completed in an ideal triangle: Udine, Rovinj, Venice, but above all, land, sea, and lagoon. Three different places, one vision: cooking with honesty and beauty.
CONTACTS
AGLI AMICI ROVINJ - Grand Park Hotel Rovinj by Maistra Collection
Šetalište Vijeća Europe 1-2, 52210, Rovinj, Croazia
Phone: +385 99 805 1910
AGLI AMICI DAL 1887
Via Liguria, 252 Udine
Phone: 0432 565411
