Says the 30-year-old sous chef of the famous Bristol sign, interviewed in a BBC special: “Even if we work 15 hours a day, knowing that people leave the restaurant satisfied makes it all more than worthwhile.”
Cover photo: @BBC
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When it comes to fine dining, the common perception is that these are almost untouchable places, where perfection reigns supreme, and the dining experience is something exceptional. But behind every flawless dish, every innovative pairing, every service that leaves its mark, there is a world of passion, dedication and sacrifice that the chefs, sous chefs and all the wait staff live every day. Far from imagining a gilded profession, the protagonists of these star-studded kitchens describe a job that requires resilience and an extraordinary drive.
Take as an example Bulrush, a restaurant located in Cotham, Bristol, which has managed to retain its Michelin star for the seventh consecutive year. Here, the goal is not just to serve exceptional dishes, but to create an experience that makes every customer happy. “When work is something you love, you'd rather be here cooking than sitting at home watching television,” , says Jacob Pain, the restaurant's 30-year-old sous chef interviewed in a BBC special, who brings with him an infectious enthusiasm. “Even if we work 15 hours a day, knowing that people leave the restaurant satisfied makes it all more than worth it, “ he adds. It is precisely this passion, this desire to convey something special through each dish, that sets a haute cuisine restaurant apart.
But it's not just passion that drives Bulrush team members-the ability to adapt and learn is equally crucial. Ben Willcocks, 28, a batch chef, talks about how cooking was a passion that started almost by accident. "I was traveling in Canada and couldn't find a job at the bar, so I started washing dishes and showed an interest in cooking. Eventually, they gave me the opportunity to cook." Back in Bristol during the lockdown, Ben started working at Bulrush in 2020. “It has been a totally new path, allowing me to gain skills I never imagined. Here, we are pushing the boundaries further every day, working on amazing flavor combinations and innovative approaches."
In the restaurant, every staff member is aware that obtaining and maintaining a Michelin star means maintaining a constant level of excellence. Quality is not a one-time achievement, but a goal that must be ensured every day, in every dish, in every detail. A gourmet is not just a place where you eat well: it is an experience that must be flawless from the first course to the last. Laura Trego, 27, dining room manager, is happy to be part of this world. "I love talking to people, getting to know them, being part of special moments. Making someone's life better, seeing smiles on their faces-it's really a pleasure to be a part of that." There is a dimension of humanity that emerges behind these words. The cooks, waiters, and room managers are not just professionals: they are people who, through food, want to bring a unique emotion to life. “Seeing people leave happy, knowing that they are willing to come to a restaurant like this with high expectations and leave satisfied is very rewarding," Jacob continues. Indeed, the commitment in such a kitchen is to never settle for mediocrity, but to always aim to improve.
However, all that glitters is not gold. The pressure to constantly maintain a high level of performance, combined with work days that can exceed 15 hours, is something that comes with the territory. But, as those involved in this world emphasize, if passion is truly the driving force, the sacrifices become lighter. Jacob himself, who previously worked in a nursing home kitchen, acknowledges how much this profession has within it an emotional reward that justifies the labors. “Every dish we prepare is an opportunity to convey something, to make the customer feel special, to give a smile.” The 2025 edition of the Michelin guide has honored several other restaurants in the West of England area, including The Manor House and Le Champignon Sauvage, but it is Bulrush that serves as the perfect example of what it means not only to achieve a Michelin star, but to maintain it, with dedication and passion. It is a reality that is made up of sacrifices, but also satisfactions that go far beyond just cooking: it is an experience that feeds on emotions, smiles and an incredible ability to make a difference in the lives of those who sit at the table.
