Daniele Del Gaudio and Luigi Pagano, originally from southern Italy, run a pizzeria in Parma, Passione e Tradizione, which draws inspiration from the Neapolitan culture. They revisit the flavors of their homeland, enriching them with a modern twist, and celebrate the places and people they love most, experimenting with new combinations using the highest quality ingredients; the dough, on the other hand, is the result of careful study and years of experience.
The Land
If you have never been to Parma, and by chance happen to find yourself on the road, stop without hesitation: you will discover a little Paris that embodies the best of the Bel Paese, not to be visited, but to be savored, listened to and experienced. Here, art enchants the eye, music reassures the soul, and cuisine nourishes in the heart (and beyond): among the hamlets of the historic center, it almost seems as if you can hear the notes of Giuseppe Verdi's “Va, pensiero” , one of the most famous compositions in the history of opera, accompanied by metallic sounds coming from the bells of the many bicycles that dart down the street daily.
The scent of Parmigiano Reggiano wafts from the stores and grocery stores, drawing the attention of the few passersby, elderly gentlemen with canes or hungry out-of-town students. On Saturday mornings, however, stalls color the Annunziata with seasonal fruits and vegetables, local salami and ham, mulled wine, and quality dairy products.
A few steps from Via d'Azeglio, in Oltretorrente, taking Via Dei Farnese, it is possible to access-through a large gate-the Parco Ducale, an oasis of centuries-old trees, in the urban center. A perfect refuge for those seeking a quiet moment, or those who feel like jogging. On the opposite side is the ovoid Peschiera, where in the middle is the Trianon Fountain.
The restaurant
From this point it is possible to exit to head towards the adjacent Pablo-Prati Bocchi, a predominantly residential neighborhood, full of apartment buildings and activities; and it is at 18 Via Primo Savani that from 2019 you will find Passione e Tradizione, the first in the city to be included in the Pizzerie Eccellenti of the 50 Top Pizza Guide, as well as awarded two slices by Gambero Rosso. The ambiance is casual, industrial style, as is the mise en place: minimal black leatherette placemats, glasses and cutlery, and the rest of the bare wood floor. A poldine at each station for anyone who wants to create a more intimate atmosphere.
Welcoming you at the entrance, just behind the counter, is a team of very kind young people, and Gilda's priceless smile; while the copper dome, and the oven barrel, can only be glimpsed: a small brick wall divides the room from the wonder station. Here and there such Neapolitan icons as the cornetto, Pulcinella, Totò, Vesuvius...
The history and the chefs
To say that in Italy the wagon wheel is always good is reductive, a popular statement that does not really do justice to the complex work behind such a national symbol. It is not a matter of where, minding geographical coordinates is now out of fashion, but how it is made and especially by whom: sure, the South boasts legendary pizza makers, but in recent years there are those who have been able to rewrite the rules of the game even from Naples on up. Such is the case with two young friends who are experts in the field.
Just to think that back in 2017, the year I moved to Parma to start university, they first opened in Via Botticelli, Montanara area, where I 'grew up' and lived throughout my studies. The space was tight and even then you had to play it by ear to grab one of the five free tables inside.
“I started by attending hotel management school, the apprenticeship came later,” begins Luigi Pagano, the one who is responsible for giving an identity to the dishes on the menu, selecting suppliers, and the cooking phase. "I worked in several restaurants, from Milano Marittima to Castelnuovo Sotto...I never stopped: I continued to train, actively participating in molecular cooking courses, and developing a real passion for charcuterie. Daniele I met in 2008, between us there was immediately a special feeling, which made us realize that we could build something concrete together, combining our skills".
At that time, the Gastronomic Capital par excellence lacked what we now call “contemporary dough,” as well as carefully designed original toppings, and home-made fritters. And so came the intuition that was able to answer a gap, and which subsequently turned into a success.
He continues, "I looked around, being inspired by the best. From Antonino Cannavacciuolo I learned a lot, I had the opportunity to eat at his place when he still had two Michelin stars. At Villa Crespi I had the impression of being at my grandmother's house, my point of reference, from which everything started. It was incredible. I still remember as a child sitting next to her and helping her unwrap the black grains of rice from the white ones. I carry her with me every time I am at work, replicating her gestures, which I have stored in my mind and spirit".
“I, on the other hand, am self-taught,” explains Daniele Del Gaudio, "My late father's brother, had a restaurant in Sant'Ilario, in the province of Reggio Emilia; the white art was taught to me there. I wanted to dedicate the Zio Mario, yellow tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella from Campania, Napoli salami and basil,to him, delicate, but at the same time tenacious." He is the one who meticulously controls the crucial stages preceding the rolling out of the loaves, which are destined to become disks 33 cm in diameter, with a not excessively accentuated cornice. To arrive at an ad hoc product, with a degree of hydration that is around 70 percent, temperature and timing must be constantly monitored. If everything goes according to plan, the ripening comes by itself: it is no coincidence that I am told of ending evenings with dough that has risen 72 hours.
Pizzas and desserts
The dances open with a novelty, the Gelato Carrettiere, a cute mini-magnum on a stick, an explosion of flavors in a reduced size, filled with sausage and friarielli, served with provolone cream and crumbled tarallo. The breadcrumbs are nothing short of amazing, remaining dry and light. The secret? Wait just a minute before serving. A crunchy effect is guaranteed!
We continue with the first slice of pizza, whose topping takes its cue from an ancient Neapolitan recipe dating back to the mid-1800s, pasta allo scarpariello: according to some, it was invented in the Quartieri Spagnoli by the wives of shoemakers, who prepared Monday lunch with Sunday leftovers, namely some sauce and lots of cheese. So we find pureed roasted cherry tomatoes, fior di latte and basil. Coming out are slivers of cave pecorino, roasted cherry tomatoes and a round of Colline Salernitane DOP extra virgin olive oil.
Along the way, one senses the commitment to seeking out PDO and PGI goodies from all over the peninsula (we count 30), starting with oil; there are no less than three on the list, including one from Puglia and one from Sardinia (fruity green).
We continue with Terra Mia, made with yellow tomatoes, provola, 'broccoletti,' and a cascade of 'tarall 'nzogn e pèpe'. Perhaps one of my favorites, the bitterness of the friarielli is the protagonist, but not for that reason the other elements are eclipsed. I felt it balanced, mouthwatering and not at all heavy, ideal for vegetable lovers.
It is the turn of the Bolognese Rivisitata, a tribute to Emilia-Romagna: mixed mince ragu, fior di latte, yellow and red bell pepper sauce, black olive earth and dried capers. Probably one of their signatures, and aesthetically one of the most beautiful. I recommend it with a glass of red wine; a special section on the menu shows bottles awarded 2 or 3 glasses by Gambero Rosso.
Last but not least, a montanara (double cooked), Tu Vuò Fà L'Americano, created by Daniele after tasting a similar burger in the States: caramelized Tropea onion, smoked black angus, peanut butter, roasted peanuts and vene cress leaves. And you fly overseas with your taste buds! The ingredients are all well-balanced, nothing is given to chance, the decorative cress lends class and elegance, on the finish it cleanses the palate leaving a pleasant sensation of freshness.
Dulcis in fundo...a Sorrento tart, lemon namelaka, limoncello gelèe and vitrified citrus. Crisp and delicate, with a golden shell, a simple but satisfying end to a meal. But the highlight was, in my opinion, the Gourmet Coffee. I may be biased, since this dessert makes me think of my grandmother Dina, a great supporter of the Sunday tiramisu-which can never be missed after lunch-but this one definitely has a plus over the classic. First, the yellow, thick, silky mascarpone mixture is placed inside a mocha, along with pavesini and a dusting of bitter cocoa. Each spoonful was a small moment of pleasure (although the end came too soon!). In return I still had a cup of espresso next to me to sip, concentrated and velvety.
I met two determined, humble and genuine personalities: you could see it in their sincere eyes, and I am happy about that. It is the ardor that drives them to always give their best, to feel gratified and to please customers in every request. Focused on goals, Daniel and Luigi are not afraid to devote time and energy to achieve them, and they do not give up easily in the face of seemingly insurmountable difficulties, Covid-19 being one example. And when asked “Do you have future plans?” they enthusiastically reply, "Yes, we would like to expand. Who knows, maybe opening another store."
Contact
Pizzeria Passione e Tradizione
Address: Via Savani 18, 43126 Parma
Phone: 0521 258459
E-mail: pizzeriapt17@gmail.com
