Founded in 1905, this restaurant is not only the oldest in Florida, but boasts five generations of family history, jealously guarding the Cuban Sandwich tradition and enriching it with an attention to detail that makes every bite a trip back in time.
The Story
There is one dish that holds a piece of history, a mix of cultures and an explosion of flavors: the Cuban Sandwich. This iconic sandwich, which originated in Havana, Cuba, was originally conceived as a cheap and practical meal for cigar factory workers. Over time, it crossed the sea to land in Florida in the late 1800s and early 1900s, becoming a gastronomic legend in the cities of Tampa and Miami, Michelin recounts in a dedicated special. The Cuban Sandwich is more than just a sandwich.
It is the epitome of a meeting of culinary traditions. Its classic version consists of roast pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles and mustard, all encased in Cuban bread that is crispy outside and soft inside. Some variations include ingredients such as salami, tomato, mayonnaise and onions, adding additional layers of complexity to the taste.
One of the most renowned interpretations is that of Columbia Restaurant in Tampa. Founded in 1905, this restaurant is not only the oldest in Florida, but also the largest Spanish restaurant in the world. The Gonzmart family, now in its fifth generation of ownership, jealously guards the Cuban Sandwich tradition, enriching it with an attention to detail that makes every bite a trip back in time. Andrea Gonzmart Williams, current owner, says, “My great-great-grandfather immigrated to Tampa with the dream of offering the flavors of his homeland to Ybor City immigrants.” The restaurant's name, Columbia, is an homage to the patriotic song “Columbia, Gem of the Ocean,” a symbol of pride and hope for immigrants at the time.
Once a “corner bar with 30 seats,” today Columbia has 15 dining rooms and as many as 1,700 seats. Co-owner Casey Gonzmart Jr. describes the importance of keeping traditions intact: “Every time we restore an area of the restaurant, we try to restore it to its former glory, creating a bridge between past and present.” What makes Columbia's Cuban Sandwich unique? “The care and love we put into each layer,” explains Andrea Gonzmart Williams. The ham is sugar-glazed and spiced, the pork marinated and roasted in-house, the sausage is high quality, and each ingredient is meticulously chosen. A distinctive detail is the use of pepperoni with peppercorns, a tradition that differentiates Tampa's Cuban Sandwich from the Miami versions.
In recent years, the Gonzmart family decided to go back to basics, making everything in house: from bread to pickles to mustard. “We have tested dozens of mustards and tasted countless types of pickles to ensure a flawless product,”, says Andrea. The Cuban Sandwich is not just a dish, it is a tale of cultures intertwining. As Andrea points out, “It's like capturing all the cultures of Ybor City and layering them between two slices of bread.”
And what better way to enjoy it than with a traditional mojito prepared at the table or Columbia's famous “Salad 1905,” a mix of crisp lettuce and refreshing flavors? “The combination of the crunch of the sandwich and the freshness of the salad is just perfect", adds Casey Gonzmart Jr. If you are in Tampa, a stop at Columbia Restaurant is a must to immerse yourself in the history and authentic flavors of the Cuban Sandwich. With over 120 years of tradition, Columbia continues to be a place where past and present come together, celebrating the cultural and culinary richness of Ybor City.
