Ferran Adrià, a pioneer of world gastronomy, reflects on the industry's distortions. From the media-created utopian image of chefs to the wages of Parisian waiters to the influence of foreign cuisines in Spain. He stresses the importance of knowledge and the constant ability to challenge oneself to remain competitive in an ever-changing market. Although he did not attend university, his dedication to study and research remains an essential part of his success.
Cover photo credit: Ben Hider
The news
Ferran Adrià, one of the most influential personalities in the world, if not the most revolutionary, continues to reflect on today's scene, even though he retired from active cooking after the closure of his iconic restaurant, El Bulli, in 2011. In his recent interviews, he has addressed a variety of issues, drawing out what is happening in the world of contemporary gastronomy.
“The image we're fed of chefs is totally unrealistic, the media tends to idealize the figure, often presenting him or her as some kind of visionary artist, a rock star, living in a world of pure creativity, without taking into account the real difficulties and daily challenges involved in the profession,” he tells Elle. “I haven't seen The Bear yet because I don't subscribe to Disney+, but I know people are angry the main character is going to Denmark rather than Spain, obviously we haven't been good at selling ourselves abroad.”
Indeed, there are significant challenges associated with running many food & wine businesses, such as sustainability, quality of service, and the ability to innovate in a highly competitive market. However, it is also true that there are businesses that manage to distinguish themselves through careful and timely organization. "Of course, salaries are not yet at their highest, but soon we should reach the standards of France. In Paris, for example, waiters can earn up to 4 thousand euros a month, of course it depends on the type of restaurant, the location and the experience of the staff."
"Spain in recent years has been influenced by traditional Asian, Mexican and Peruvian cuisine, while technology, and all that goes with it, has not helped to improve the sector. I usually use Instagram to inform myself about all the news, I appreciate the work of gastro influencers, of course there is a limit, professional comments should be left to those who know about it, and when they exaggerate I stop following them."
Adrià did not attend university, despite this, he gets up every morning at six o'clock to study for about five hours straight: “Knowledge is everything, I am not a genius, but I apply myself in my daily life.” The legend has built his career precisely on the constant ability to question himself. Each of his projects stems from the idea that there are no definitive limits, only opportunities to explore new horizons. This philosophy has led him to continually evolve. His research drives him to never stop, reinventing himself and his concept.
