“Without Cordova, I would not exist: in this mysterious place I discovered a path to gastronomic excellence,” says Paco Morales, fresh off a three-star rating. Who, however, has chosen to diversify his business in a popular sense by opening El Bar de Paco, soon to undergo further restyling.
The chef
Among the chefs of the moment and the world today is Paco Morales, who in his three-star Noor offers unusual cuisine with historical depths. The name literally stands for “light,” and it is from the depths of time that an interdisciplinary team strives to bring the essence of Andalusian culture to the fore. It is therefore about creating menus and dishes that are as original and contemporary as they are rooted in ancestral and even archaeological recipes.
The exploration began nine years ago and considers a century at each stage. The latest menu in particular, which has been available since September, represents the arrival of the modern age through a journey to 18th-century Cordova, as the chef tells Infobae España. An era he calls “fascinating,” in which ingredients were both an expression of taste and elegance, the act of eating a riot of sensations and new ideas.
The dishes are still unknown in their detail. It is known, however, that there will be three menus, Tanwe, Tawara and Taqadum, centered on different traits of an era of tumultuous change, in which scientific thinking began to make its way along with a new concept of “good taste,” extended to every sphere of existence. “Chefs of the time sought to surprise guests with new and extravagant ingredients, such as almond paste or viper meat. The working classes for their part began to have access to foods reserved until then for the nobility, which allowed new flavors and techniques to be incorporated into the kitchen. Importantly, the ingredients commonly in use were local products such as lard and game."
The work began in May and involved virtually the entire team, starting with new kitchen chef Paola Gualandi, who relieved Morales of many daily tasks, allowing him to focus on the essentials. “I chose to be different and explore unknown paths. In the end, every human being needs answers and certainty. In my case it was about enhancing the hidden culture of our area, which once brought to light, dazzles. Andalusia is endless. I also realized that I needed a plan of creativity for all the years, the ingenuity and strength needed to reach a stage each season. Ancient recipes do not always last, so it is our job to preserve and care for this legacy, highlighting the fact that during the caliphate they were as refined as they are told."
Then there is Bar de Paco, a lace-free concept (soon to undergo further restyling). A perfect place to drink a glass of Amontillado, savoring calamari. Because “luxury is also in the dishes of all time, of all life, in quiet drinking and discovering the most fun gastronomy at friendly prices.” Prices? According to the last menu, patatas bravas at 7 euros, salmorejo at 11.50, fried cod with lemon mayonnaise at 18, panna cotta at 5.50. All to be paired with glasses of wine between 5 and 9 euros. “We do fresh, dynamic and informal cuisine,” the website reads. “Because we like bars, we apply our gastronomic philosophy to them. An affordable menu, good wine, a cozy place, the terrace and our signature: that's enough. ”
