Among the winners in the Michelin guide dedicated to the Nordic countries was Damiano Alberti, sommelier patron of Enomania in Copenhagen. "At our place we work Tuesday to Friday, and two co-workers have become partners. Moving abroad can offer great opportunities, but it remains a personal choice. You have to follow your heart."
The award
When the Michelin Nordic Countries 2024 guidebook was unveiled on May 28, an Italian also took the stage: Damiano Alberti, a 50-year-old native of the Alto Piemonte region, who is uncorking as sommelier patron at Enomania, a Copenhagen-based bib gourmand.
Damiano, tell us your story
I joined the restaurant business as a cook, mostly of big hotels, from Sestriere to St. Moritz to Cinque Terre. Then having to serve in the military, it happened that I couldn't finish a season, and in 1991 I moved briefly to Denmark, where by the way they paid very well. After finishing the military service, the Danish owner called me back. In 1998 I returned to Milan and attended AIS courses. My passion for wine grew more and more and I returned to Copenhagen to work as a sommelier, in starred and non-starred restaurants. Until I opened a small bistro with my wife Charlotte in 2009.
At first there was the idea of a bar with very little food, which evolved into a wine bar with tasting menus. Finally in 2016 we expanded, acquiring the premises next door, so as to enlarge the cellar and triple the number of covers, which were only 25.
How would you describe the Danish scene?
Copenhagen is something different from the rest of the country. Although it is a capital, it is a small town compared to Milan, but you really find everything, both in terms of wine and different cultures. Lately Nordic cuisine has been making a spectacle of itself, but in the absence of strong traditions, nothing is lacking. Danes are very interested in wine, even when it comes to traveling to visit wineries. They are very fascinated and also connaisseurs; I have customers debating whether the Asili vineyard is to the right or left of the church. They also spend a lot, saving perhaps for months in order to taste a bottle.
What does Enomania offer?
We try as much as possible to be a little ambiance, where the customer is a friend. We try to introduce people to what we like. In the cellar we have 1,800 references, including a thousand French, with a small selection of natural. But we are more on the classic side. The menu is very small, comprising five courses that change every week. And the Danish customer is very open-minded, he is easily advised. For a course with 5 glasses, mostly Italian, the expense is around 100-120 euros. For example, last week we had a risottino with cream of pumpkin, braised wild boar, and summer truffle, over which we mixed a 2019 Michele Reverdito Barolo
Did you expect the award?
Let's say that during the last visit, the inspector had really enjoyed this winey, often convivial world. We also have groups who bring wines, on which we build dishes. Because uncorking in good company is always more enjoyable.
What advice do you feel like giving in light of your successes?
After 32 years, I almost feel more Danish than Italian, although I do return occasionally to visit my parents. I have spent most of my life here. Then passion gives you the opportunity to do so many things; if that were missing, it would be impossible to devote so much time to our work.
At Enomania we are closed from Saturday to Monday, days we dedicate to family. Because it is very important to balance the different needs, having fun while working and having time for private life. We did that pretty much right away, because when we opened our son was little, but now so many restaurants are taking similar measures. We also decided to make two long-time employees partners, who are family to us. In general in one's career I think you have to follow your heart. There have been many Italian collaborators over the years, some were eager to travel and learn languages, others felt torn from their world. Moving remains a personal choice, although opportunities for growth can offer great advantages.
