Working conditions in the restaurant industry have changed, and now the goal is to consider (also) life outside the kitchen: Giorgio Locatelli explains how he reduced the weekly service hours.
Cover Photo: Amara Cipro
The News
“Up to ten years ago, it was normal to work twelve hours a day in the kitchen, I don’t remember ever thinking it was too many hours.” This is how Giorgio Locatelli, internationally renowned chef and judge on Masterchef Italia and owner of the acclaimed Locanda Locatelli in London, offers Sole 24 Ore an insight into the challenges and opportunities the restaurant world is facing, even for those who are new to the sector.
In an era where sustainability and technology play crucial roles, Locatelli reflects particularly on the evolution of the kitchen and how these forces are reshaping the industry. Technology has revolutionized the modern kitchen, improving quality control and expanding marketing possibilities. Locatelli cites the example of temperature probes for fish as one of the innovations that have made preparation management more efficient. Moreover, social media has transformed how restaurants promote themselves, allowing them to reach a wide audience quickly and effectively. Being "Instagrammable" can make a difference, attracting a young and virtually always connected audience.
The concept of sustainability has taken on central importance in the culinary landscape. Locatelli emphasizes how his restaurant has always maintained a close relationship with local producers, preferring English-sourced meat and fish. However, he also notes that sustainability is often perceived as an elitist privilege, while it should be a universal concern. For Locatelli, sustainability is not just a buzzword but a concrete commitment to responsible and environmentally friendly practices.
Another significant challenge is the staffing shortage in the sector. Locatelli observes how the aging population and the declining number of young people choosing culinary careers are putting restaurateurs to the test. To attract and retain talent, it's essential to improve working conditions, offering fair wages and sustainable hours. Locatelli highlights how, compared to the past, significant progress has been made to ensure a more balanced and less stressful work environment. “We have adopted several measures, for example, we are closed at lunchtime on Mondays and Tuesdays, so we can focus more on evening service, reduce everyone’s weekly hours, and most importantly, allow the staff to build a social environment outside of work.”
The high cost of living is another challenge that restaurateurs must face, with operating costs continuing to rise. Locatelli recalls the times when profit margins in starred restaurants were much higher than today. Today, running a gourmet restaurant entails high costs, from exorbitant rents to staff salaries, to energy and gas bills. Despite these difficulties, Locatelli insists on the importance of discussing and raising awareness of these issues to find sustainable solutions. With the increasing popularity of vegan cuisine, the renowned chef also sees an inevitable need to shift towards more sustainable diets. Food production must evolve to ensure adequate protein intake without compromising the environment.
After years of experience, Locatelli sees himself not only as a chef but also as an entrepreneur. This duality allows him to balance culinary creativity with the demands of managing a successful restaurant. His greatest desire is to work with young people, passing on the passion and skills needed to excel.
