It took only four months for Aurora Storari and Flavio Lucarini to earn a brilliant Michelin star in Paris. But the pastry chef also received the Passion Dessert award. "Our destiny is here: soon we will be partners. In fact, the fun begins now."
Photos by Jordan Sapally
The interview
Among the winners of the latest edition of the Michelin France guide are Aurora Storari and Flavio Lucarini from the Hémicycle restaurant in Paris, who not only obtained the coveted macaron, but also the Passion Dessert award. Thirty-one years old, Aurora, after high school and Alma, internships at Calandre and Mirazur ("and it was the initial shock, which directed me towards what I wanted: working in demanding realities"), followed by professional experiences in London, at Trussardi alla Scala with Roberto Conti, In De Wulf, and at Le Clarence for almost 4 years.
It was in Belgium, where she wanted to start, that she met Flavio Lucarini, 32 years old, who, for his part, had passed through the teachings of Francesco Apreda at Imago and Luigi Nastri at Settembrini, before leaving for Paris, working with Giovanni Passerini, at Le Gabriel, a new three-star restaurant, and at Bistrot d'à Côté Flaubert. The news is even more sensational, as they had opened just 6 months earlier, of which only four were useful for the 2023 inspections.
"Given our shared experiences in fine dining, which have accustomed us to work in this way, in terms of gestures, details, and attention, we aimed for this recognition from the beginning, even though we did not expect it, until they called us," Flavio explains. "Our goal was to achieve it in 2024, but having two distinctions simultaneously was even more beautiful".
The Hémicycle restaurant is part of the Eclore group owned by Stephane Manigold, where Flavio already worked. "When the offer came, we looked at each other and said: let's do it! It was a project as much personal as professional, to work together, given the connection we have. Things fit together perfectly. And we are fortunate to have a solid team. They are all very talented and 95% Italian: the restaurant manager Michele Crippa, Giacomo and Gino in the sommelier team," adds Aurora.
Why did Manigold focus on an Italian team?
Aurora: Because we are hard workers. He is a talent scout and he noted our passion. But Hémicycle is not an Italian restaurant, there is no pasta or tiramisù. It has been a long time since we left Italy, so it would be inappropriate. Instead, we have created our own mixed style, even though the palate remains Italian, like the hospitality style.
Flavio: It is no coincidence that Michelin talks about bitterness in the description, a taste that I almost don't realize I'm using, always balanced and under control, which is rare around here.
Is Paris still the mecca for a young chef?
Flavio: I would say that those who start as cooks here become chefs. Then there are easier paths for those who do Italian cuisine, in fine dining it's a bit more competitive. Basically, it would have been easier for us to stay in a comfort zone.
Aurora: The homeland of fine dining for me remains France: here you understand the value of this profession, which is somewhat lacking in Italy. There's a different status, even in terms of contracts and unions, because it requires training. And the scene is so competitive that you have to give your all to create your own luck.
What style of pastry convinced Michelin?
Aurora: I’m born as a cook, so I seek for push and intensity in flavor. I still have that imprinting in working on sauces and concentrations, only then comes the recipe. I think my broad view of ingredients has also contributed, because I don't set limits and make personal associations. Our choice is always to pull ourselves out of the comfort zone; where we do well, we try to do better. We don't rest on our laurels.
I can mention the dark hazelnut mousse, without sugar except for the natural one, therefore less indulgent, filled with sea lettuce and citron jam, with finger lime mayonnaise, caramelized sea lettuce, and mixed citrus sorbet with bitter notes. Two or three ingredients at most, as always.
What are your plans after the star?
Flavio: This remains our place, also because soon we will be partners. It's not in our plans to return to Italy. There's still a lot to do here, in fact, now the real development of the restaurant begins.
