Where to Eat in Italy Trattorie e Osterie

Agata Felluga, from Michelin-Starred Restaurants to a Trattoria: The Chef Who Chose Maremma

by:
Elisa Erriu
|
copertina agata felluga trattoria cacciaconti

She set aside her career in fine dining to rediscover the nature and authentic flavors of Maremma: today she leads a successful trattoria on Amiata. The story of Agata Felluga.

The story

In the heart of Maremma, among the green hills that guard ancient culinary traditions, a talented cook has decided to embark on a gastronomic journey with the flavor of an adventure. After years spent in the brigades of the most prestigious restaurants, she decided to open a trattoria in the enchanting setting of Amiata. This is the story of Agata Felluga, who worked in the finest kitchens of Paris, from Lucas Carton to Astrance alongside Pascal Barbot.

agata felluga chef Christophe Urbain
@Christophe Urbain

After years of honing her skills behind the scenes of starred restaurants, Agata felt the desire to embrace the simplicity and authenticity of traditional cuisine. She decided to set aside the Michelin stars to immerse herself in the rustic and genuine beauty of Maremma, finding inspiration in local traditions and flavors of this land.

agata felluga pasta fresca
 

The choice to open Trattoria Cacciaconti in 2022 is not random; since childhood, Agata spent her summer vacations with her family in Rocchette di Fazio. This place represents for her a synthesis of gastronomic richness and unspoiled nature, the ideal setting for Agata's new project. With her love for local ingredients and her culinary creativity, the chef is determined to create a unique and unforgettable gastronomic experience for her guests.

trattoria cacciaconti
 

Certainly, there have been tough moments, as she herself confessed, partly due to the pandemic, but also due to the shortage of capable staff to support her. However, she did not lose heart, and today she leads a place without a paper menu, where dishes are listed on a chalkboard just like in the old days. Opening days? Only 4 a week, but "work is there every day" and demands are growing, along with the project of a possible vegetable garden for self-production.

agata felluga lavagna
 

Agata's trattoria is a place of meeting and sharing, where the authentic flavors of Tuscan cuisine blend with the creativity and elegance that have distinguished the chef's career. Her à la carte offering is not structured around a set menu: she herself lists the daily specials, which change according to seasonal products. The only fixed dishes are tagliatelle with ragù, "gnudi" made by her mother, beef entrecote, and honey gelato.

agata felluga zucchine e melanzane grigliate e fritte con primo sale
 

"We don't serve side dishes," Agata tells Maremma Oggi. "But we have vegetable dishes among the appetizers. I always try to have a mixed salad with powders, aromatic herbs, and grains. I refer back to Tuscan traditions of the past, perhaps bringing along my international experiences, focusing heavily on local products, which are essentially my true secret. Among the appetizers, there's radicchio, marinated eggs with aioli, buffalo mozzarella with field plantain, but also cheese and pears. Among the first courses, pici with green sauce are almost a specialty, and also acquacotta and black tagliolini with bottarga."

agata felluga caprese
 

"Among the main courses, we offer cod fillet with squid sauce," Agata continues. "To finish with desserts: Caprese cake and crema catalana. The wine list is important, as I think about preparing the dishes precisely to match them, in addition to direct contact with the producers."

agata felluga trattoria cacciaconti
 

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