In a cave in the Sassi district, at the foot of the Cathedral, with a view of the Belvedere and the Gravina, Vitantonio Lombardo amazes customers by bringing the beauty of nature onto the plate.
The story
He describes himself as a Lucanian, a resident of the world, the son of farmers, straightforward and sincere. "Essentially, I am someone who cooks. Nothing more, nothing less." However, after sitting at his table in the historic center of Matera and tasting his dishes recognized by the Michelin Guide with a Michelin star, one can't help but think of much more. Vitantonio is not just a resident of his land; he is its standard-bearer, an admirer, a supporter. Everything he does reflects his philosophy: Heart, Mind, Gut – from the incredible transformation of a cave into a restaurant to the incredible dishes that speak of tradition and innovation. These dishes touch the palate and, time and again, speak to the heart.
Matera is a daydream, you look at a photo and try to imagine it. But, as always happens, if you're not there, you can't grasp the surreal atmosphere it's made of. It always happens that the image captured by a phone can't even remotely convey the feeling of walking through the alleys, touching those stones – rather, those famous rocks known all over the world – with your own hands. The sensation of getting lost is just around the corner, and in fact, getting lost is only a matter of time. Yet, you never stop feeling inside a little dream. The fear of not finding your way back is missing here, in fact, the idea of not following a predefined path is part of the itinerary itself.
And it's precisely when you're happily immersed in this atmosphere – which could easily be described as a nativity scene, that the most attentive glances momentarily divert from the landscape and focus on that sign with the red Michelin symbol that stands out on the stone. Here, at the entrance of Vitantonio Lombardo's restaurant, a new journey begins – this time not just for the eyes but also for the palate.
The Restaurant
The restaurant takes its name from chef Vitantonio Lombardo and is located inside a cave in the Sassi district, at the foot of the Cathedral, with a view of the Belvedere and the Gravina, a massive limestone furrow that looks like a canyon crossing the area and hosts the river bearing the same name. As soon as you cross the threshold, you realize the enormous effort made to create a restaurant in such an unsuitable space, a space that doesn't naturally lend itself to hospitality. Yet, in Matera, it seems that nature bends to the will of man when approached with kindness and good sense.
A real cave, with only one opening to the outside, where everything has been carefully planned by the designers: the equipment, air circulation, space allocation, kitchen environment – everything, even the simplest appliance such as an extraction hood, required investments and cleverness. And if that's not enough, Vitantonio's creativity, stimulated by architect Alessandro Tortorelli, led to even more extreme solutions, such as the enormous five-meter-high glass windows, weighing hundreds of kilograms, that separate the entrance from the dining area and the latter from the cellar, perfectly shaped to fit the cavities and convexities of the rock. You have to see them in person to believe it.
The interior spaces are naturally irregular and characterized by the strong presence of tuff stone. A trail of red marble leads to the tables, set with white tablecloths and brightened by a lamp that is a timeless classic in gourmet restaurants, the Sampei by Davide Groppi. A small cutout window in the thick stone serves as the connection with the kitchen team.
The dishes
Heart, Mind, Gut – that's what you'll find on the menu. More than a claim, it's the philosophy that has always guided the chef. Vitantonio has the ability to immerse himself in his land and emerge from it, resurfacing only when a new idea has taken shape. Three tasting menus ranging from Heart (6 courses), where recipes are dictated by love and childhood emotions; to Mind (8 courses), born from sleepless nights, reasoning, and experimentation, with the aim of transcending the boundary between reality and fantasy; to Gut (10 courses), where earth and air become the only elements guiding instinct and defining our present, past, and future.
The menu is a "Materan walk," embracing local ingredients, tradition, and innovation. The meal begins with amuse-bouche served on a perfect little display that replicates the shapes of Matera and its stones, followed by bread, breadsticks, and Leccino olive EVO oil.Among the appetizers, the "Tagliolini del PastoRe" (The Shepherd's Tagliolini) are an excellent prelude to what lies ahead. Milk, lime, chives, and Oscietra caviar come together in a single forkful, served on an artwork-like plate that summarizes the restaurant's history in a few forms. "Pignata 3.0" is a tartare of sheep, sea urchins, almonds, and pecorino cheese. A manifesto of a cuisine firmly connected to the territory.
"Mi è caduto l'uovo nell'orto" (I dropped the egg in the garden) is a classic from the chef's kitchen. The egg is cooked at low temperature and served on a bed of seasonal vegetables. This dish breathes life from the gardens and fields around Matera. "Pizza in Black" is a tribute to the cuisine of one of Italy's gastronomic geniuses: Davide Scabin. It's a deep-fried pizza with vegetable charcoal, ricotta mousse, truffle cream, and truffle spherification as the crowning touch. The delicacy of "Tortello di pancotto alle rape, alici, latte di burrata e limone candito" (Pancotto Tortello with Turnips, Anchovies, Burrata Milk, and Candied Lemon) serves as the perfect intermezzo between the truffles of the pizza and the next dish.
"Risotto con tartufo, arachidi e caramello salato" (Truffle risotto with peanuts and salted Caramel) is another signature dish from the chef. Born in 2014, the dish has kept pace with the evolution of his cuisine, while fundamentally remaining the same. The black Phoenix truffle used in the recipe is named for its strong phenol smell, which prevails over the sulfuric one. A smell that tends to fade during culinary use. This variety of truffle, now little known, was once highly sought after and is slowly reclaiming the place it deserves in the vast panorama of Italian truffles.
The "Maialino tonnato" with spinach, hollandaise sauce, tosazu, and katsoubushi is the celebration of a typical Lucanian product, the black suckling pig, which boasts highly flavorful red meat. Raised semi-wild, its meat is considered of the highest quality. The "Piccione in tre parti" (Three-parts pigeon), beautiful in presentation and preparation, with pumpkin, "peperoni cruschi" (a type of dried pepper), pistachios, and Amaro Lucano, is the last dish of this journey through Basilicata. Its sweet notes prepare the palate for dessert.
To conclude, a dish that celebrates intimacy. For a few minutes, everything around you disappears, and you find yourself alone inside a cave in Matera. You put on headphones, press play, and "Cantantessa" (Carmen Consoli) starts with her song "Ultimo bacio" (the last kiss), which is also the name of the dish. You face something unexpected, coming to terms with yourself. "A dish that takes me back to that last kiss I gave my mother. A memory I will cherish forever." It may bring tears, laughter, or simply deep thoughts as you savor a lemon semifreddo with toasted almonds, caramelized capers, and pomegranate glaze. Naturally, shaped like a kiss.
To accompany the coffee, a "cart" of sweetness. The small pastry selection is served on a little cart that echoes the shapes of those used in the Festa della Madonna Santissima (patron saint of the city), known as "della Bruna", held on July 2nd. This event is particularly important for Matera, celebrating a tradition that has been repeated since 1389. Once again, the chef's love for Matera and Basilicata goes far beyond what's on the plate.
This is undoubtedly the note that distinguishes Vitantonio Lombardo and precisely identifies him within the vast Italian gastronomic landscape. Heart, mind, gut. As stated earlier, it's not just a catchphrase but a genuine philosophy that translates into a delightful reality.
Address
Ristorante Vitantonio Lombardo
Via Madonna delle Virtù, 13, 75100 Matera MT
Tel: 0835 335475
