Over thirty years of outstanding hospitality: everything at Convivio Troiani speaks of a strong family heritage, always focused on taste. The key? A clear tendency to anticipate trends.
The story
Some restaurants seem to have existed forever, to the point where you no longer wonder how and when it all began. In an era where new establishments often have brief existence due to inexperience or poor management, that feeling is associated with stable and solid places, with the ability to attract customers, making them true institutions, timeless classics that are unaffected by trends and historical contingencies. One of these is the Convivio run by the Troiani family.
It was born in 1990 thanks to three brothers - Massimo, Giuseppe, and Angelo Troiani - who decided to move from the Marche region to Rome to open their restaurant. Initially located at 44 via dell'Orso, just behind Piazza Navona (where they received a Michelin star in 1993), it moved to its current location in 1999, not far from the previous one but more spacious, elegant, and prestigious. "You have to create the trend, not follow it," explains Massimo Troiani, regarding the longevity of their project, which undoubtedly owes much to the strength of their family bond. This strong bond, especially in Italy, with illustrious examples like the Santini and Cerea families, Succeeds in preserving the varied regional culinary traditions and introducing them to the world, surrounding them with a sense of prestige and timelessness.
The restaurant and the philosophy
Located in the heart of Rome, Il Convivio is housed inside a historic building topped by an ancient tower, situated in one of the many alleys branching out from Piazza Navona in various directions. The very entrance to the restaurant evokes a sense of respect and grandeur that is a hallmark of its enduring tradition of over thirty years. The welcoming and gracious host is Giuseppe Troiani, managing the establishment divided into four spaces. The restaurant underwent a complete renovation in 2018, furnished in a classic, understated, and elegant style with soft and relaxing lighting, white and gray table settings, and comfortable leather armchairs.
The kitchen, on the other hand, is entrusted to Angelo, a skilled chef, a mentor to many new generations, and charismatic like few others. He is credited not only for creating what has been celebrated as one of the best amatriciana dishes in Rome for over thirty years, but also for adapting to changes, constantly finding new inspirations to uphold a philosophy always centered on the product, small producers, the rotation of seasons, and local culinary traditions, reinterpreted with a modern and international flair (which is appreciated not only by Roman customers but also by foreign diners).
"Before Covid, there were many things I did out of responsibility or routine, but now I've freed myself from that annoying burden and only propose what I like and enjoy cooking," says the Marche-born chef, who managed to change his perspective after the pandemic. This has further encouraged a playful cooking style focused on entertainment, with dishes presented and narrated in an unpretentious and occasionally surprising manner, always keeping the spotlight on taste while never neglecting attention to health, eating well, using ingredients rich in essential nutrients, and adopting production methods that are mindful of the environment and ecosystem.
The dishes
A philosophy that prioritizes ingredients and excellent raw materials translates into direct and enjoyable dishes, often characterized by a strong playful component, starting with the entrées: raspberry macaron, duck liver, herb-crusted pine nuts, and a "vegetable oyster" made of tapioca, oyster herb, melon, and strawberries, both perfectly paired with a small drink. Guests can choose à la carte from a limited selection of dishes or opt for the 9-course Grand Tasting Menu at 160 euros, from which 5 dishes can be selected at 120 euros, or 7 at 135 euros.
Will it finally be "La volta buona" (“the right opportunity”) for the zucchini flower? The first course arrives, a signature dish revisited several times, consisting of fried batter, zucchini flower wrapped mozzarella, anchovy mayonnaise, and a bittersweet pepper sorbet that adds freshness to an evocative and versatile creation. "La strana compagnia" (“the strange fellas”) is nothing more than a stripe shrimp quickly seared at the table for a few seconds: meaty and juicy, it captures the significance of the raw ingredient mentioned earlier. It's flavored with peaty whisky and served with a cream of peas and red turnip and a string bean and melon salad, a tribute to spring.
The "Carpaccio alla Manzese", confusing and at the same time entertaining, served on the same paper where one would usually expect any type of ham, but there is no trace of meat here. Instead, it features watermelon cooked at a low temperature, marinated for a long time and cut into carpaccio, served with capers, herbs, and wild roots, 60-month-aged Parmigiano Reggiano Dop, and extra virgin olive oil. The "Granceola" dish takes inspiration from the East and "Un Viaggio Dimenticato” (“A Forgotten Journey”), presented with coconut milk, seaweed, bell peppers, turmeric crumble, and basil oil. All the ingredients are in harmony with each other, resulting in a tasty, convincing, and notably exotic dish.
The journey returns to Italy with "I ravioli Yellow - Green," a dish of indulgent and gratifying sea bass ravioli (with just the right thickness of egg pasta to enhance the filling), saffron and potato foam, fermented lemon, licorice, and asparagus.
Probably the best dish is "Due fave per un piccione" (“Two birds with one stone”) where the pigeon is presented in multiple ways: seared breast and leg with fava bean cream and vegetables, carpaccio with cherries, liver pâté, and mini-tortelli filled with pigeon consommé, impeccable from a technical perspective, with perfect cooking and a range of flavors, making it an excellent final savory course.
"Carbonara ah ah ah ah" is a sweet ending that surprises, a masterpiece of imagination, technique, and flavor balance. Blown rigatoni, cream, and robiola cheese replace the traditional elements of the carbonara, with coconut instead of pecorino, candied orange instead of guanciale, and cocoa bean recalling the pepper. The wine pairing, proposed by Massimo Troiani, the cellar manager, is anything but predictable, ranging from Oltrepò Pavese (with a 2016 Monsupello reserved exclusively for Convivio) to the Marche, from Tuscany to Lazio (with the most interesting proposal being Casal Pilozzo's 1996 Il Colle Gaio, a surprising, long-lasting, and complex Malvasia), ending with Piedmont and an excellent Barolo. The wine list is vast, recognized as one of the best in the world by Wine Spectator, featuring over 3600 labels in the cellar, carefully describing Italian and international enology, looking towards the entire world, always seeking new stories and collectible bottles.
They have all the great Champagnes and the most important red wines from Piedmont and Tuscany, which are particularly surprising for their incredible depth in vintages. There is also a selection of cocktails for the aperitif, and an impressive by-the-glass offering, with about 20 labels carefully chosen from renowned productions. Not to mention the spirits list, with approximately 600 options of premium whiskies, rums, calvados, cognacs, armagnacs, as well as grappa and grape distillates. The service is impeccable, professional, courteous, and competent, as one would expect in an establishment of such caliber, where everyone embodies a vital piece of a flawless mechanism, allowing the Troiani family to continue telling the story of Italian fine-dining cuisine without worrying by the ticking of the clock.
Address
Il Convivio Troiani Restaurant
Vicolo dei soldati N 31, 00186, Rome
Tel. +39 066869432
Email: info@ilconviviotroiani.com
