Although insects have not yet made it onto DiverXO's menu, Dabiz Muñoz, agent provocateur of the international avant-garde, continues his fearless tastings, from mud worms to bug curry. "They taste like Iberian ham. This world is here to stay, even if it still has many haters."
The story
Bugs or no bugs? Fine dining has long attempted to legitimize a controversial food, wielded to recover ancestral uses, scandalize, or arouse new emotions, with admittedly waning success. Now, however, the issue is back in the news because of consumption permits in Europe and a widespread campaign in favor of "alternative" proteins to tackle climate change.
Dabiz Muñoz, agent provocateur of the global vanguard, commented, "Insects can be authentic delicacies and have high nutritional values.” The Madrid-based chef, however, was not always so well-disposed; indeed, he admitted that at first, he felt mistrustful because of the culture shock. Over the years and as he became more familiar with other cultures, he came to regard the pesky critters as more or less normal food. As much as none of the four species authorized by European authorities has yet entered DiverXO's charter, the evidence has been plentiful.
Muñoz is particularly fascinated by ants, the lemon-flavored ones from Bogota in particular, he calls them "spectacular." The atta mexicana also boasts a subtly smoky and toasted flavor, along with ethereal textures. Understanding the context, however, is essential to enjoy the experience.
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"I have an open mind because over the years, if I may say so, I have eaten a lot of crap," he recounted. Before the pandemic, for example, it was the case of mud-dwelling worms. "They are bitter as hell, they taste like dirt, and I didn't like them." Then came the Mexican bug curry, like cockroaches, of which he recalls "it tasted like Iberian ham, I thought it was an incredible product." Being outraged would make no sense, since there are ingredients in any gastronomy that are shocking to other people, in the United States they fry eels, similar to "sea worms." To him, it is merely a matter of perspective. "Insects are here to stay, even if it still has many haters," to conclude.
@GTRESSource: cadenaser.com
