When we talk about the Cerea family and the Da Vittorio restaurant in Brusaporto, in the province of Bergamo, the doors open wide to a world that bears little resemblance to the “normality” of a three-star restaurant.
Although the story behind this bright sign is now well known to most regular patrons of fine dining restaurants around the world,each time one is amazed and, even more so, reflects on the uniqueness of an establishment capable of combining—with near-perfect precision—entrepreneurial skill and a passion for hospitality, the precision of the kitchen and the spirit of a large Italian family, attention to detail, and respect for tradition. It matters little whether they’re serving just a few tables or thousands of people through a catering service that has now become legendary even beyond the country’s borders.
Things haven’t changed all that much over the past few decades compared to the foundation masterfully laid by the founder, Vittorio, in the 1970s, when—as a visionary—he was the first to showcase the quality of the fresh seafood in the Bergamo province; this is also because at the helm today are his children Chicco, Bobo, Francesco, and Rossella, guided by their mother Bruna—the driving force behind a continuity that has simply evolved over the years. From a prestigious restaurant that was located along the main avenue in downtown Bergamo until 2005, Da Vittorio can now truly be described as a multinational corporation, with more than a thousand employees and branded restaurants—some with Michelin stars, others without—spanning from St. Moritz to Shanghai, Portofino to Milan; prestigious collaborations with Louis Vuitton and Belmond, its own catering service at various Italian stadiums in Milan, Turin, and Bergamo; sub-brands that elevate the quality of mass-market retail; a pastry lab that is a veritable dessert factory operating around the clock and entrusted to the skilled hands of Davide Comaschi, one of the finest maître chocolatiers around (here we tell you about his latest award and his creations), and the list goes on and on. So much so that it’s actually difficult to keep track of all the ventures they’ve launched.
60 Years and Still Going Strong
In a decidedly unique year, marked by the anniversary in late July celebrating 60 years in business (the celebration at the Cantalupa estate, home to the restaurant, resembled the set of *Vatel* due to the grandeur of the event, with a large contingent of VIP guests and famous colleagues),the restaurant continues undeterred in its daily celebration of a gastronomic ritual that is second to none. Among Italy’s three-star restaurants, Da Vittorio is perhaps the only one that leaves little room for subjective interpretations, ethical and aesthetic musings, the chef’s personal flair, the pursuit of self-celebration, or even the chase after trendy ingredients or the flavor of the moment.
Solidity, consistency, passion, dedication—here, these aren’t just words thrown to the media to pin a medal on one’s chest or win an award (which, anyway, come automatically…), but are part of a way of doing things that is inherent in the culture and professionalism of the people. In a style that speaks the language of the provinces yet is clearly understood by everyone, far beyond national borders. It’s no surprise that at Da Vittorio’s tables you’ll find a truly diverse array of guests—ranging from Flavio Briatore to Pupo, to the business professional from Bergamo, and including soccer players and athletes of all kinds. The Cerea brothers’ cuisine essentially does not divide but unites; it is clear and accessible, making the most of excellent ingredients—whether it’s caviar, fish, or an outstanding pacchero, which, not surprisingly, has become their trademark.
The value lies in the recognizability of flavors that are accessible to everyone, leaving room for pure pleasure and a little less for the musings of food experts—or those who claim to be such. And in a decidedly controversial historical moment, marked by lengthy—and often fruitless—discussions about the future of fine dining, by the media hype surrounding restaurants featured on lists whose compilation is, to say the least, unconventional, by the lack of substance in many hit-and-run establishments (especially given their short lifespan), or by the self-aggrandizement of chefs whose résumés consist of a few internships at high-profile restaurants in Northern Europe, it’s heartening to know that there are always seasoned professionals out there who know how to work for their guests and not just for themselves.
The future?
With a packed schedule where it’s hard to even catch your breath, the coming months (especially with the upcoming Christmas holidays and the anticipation for their panettone, which has always been one of the most celebrated) won’t bring any major changes to the already bustling world of Da Vittorio. And Chicco Cerea himself puts it bluntly: “Now we need to find the time, amid a thousand commitments, to better structure the organization behind us. The recent openings (such as last year’s DaV Cantalupa) and our many commitments require a great deal of attention to ensure we always offer a high-quality service.
However, I can say that at the end of November—on the 26th, to be exact—I’ll be in Istanbul for the first time, on stage at Gastromasa, a major international festival in a magnificent city. I received the invitation from Gokmen Sozen, the organizer, and didn’t hesitate to accept, even though it will only be for one day since I have to return to Bergamo right away. But I’m happy to go back to Turkey, where I’ve already been—to Bodrum—a few years ago. It will be a good opportunity to share our story and, at the same time, get a feel for the atmosphere among the many colleagues in attendance.”
Contact
Da Vittorio
Via Cantalupa, 17 - 24060 Brusaporto (BG)
T. +39 035.681024
