From the “seafood” cacio e pepe to Mezzo paccheri tossed in Lazio-style ricotta: Donkey’s Bar brings Rome’s culinary heritage into the present, applying the “method of indulgence.” Hence the Acquolina Group’s latest venture: elevating “neighborhood cuisine” to a level of elegance in a luxury 5-star hotel.
A 10-minute brisk walk from the obelisk in Piazza del Popolo lies a hotel where you might happen upon a painting by Picasso or stop to snap a photo of the original chandeliers from the Plaza in New York (acquired at auction some 20 years ago). However, today the best reason to step inside is the “open-door” restaurant that recently opened on the ground floor.
Given the circumstances, it would be easy to expect the typical upscale dining experience, perhaps enhanced by the innovative idea of offering a menu open even to non-hotel guests; instead, the Donkey’s Baris the complete opposite of the newcomers that have shot to fame “like a meteor” on the Roman scene. Here, you come to enjoy chicken liver pâté instead of foie gras, choosing from an entire section of the menu themed around “offal”; there’s no stuffy dining room, but rather a space nestled between the nooks by the pool and the plush sofas glistening in the reflection of the mirrors on the walls; the first courses arrive at the table straight from the skillet, to be shared with the simple gesture of passing the cutlery.
We are at Palazzo Dama, the former residence of Marquise Anna Maria Malaspina, converted into a 5-star Art Nouveau hotel; yet, at mealtimes, luxury coexists peacefully with a laid-back atmosphere, amid the comings and goings of Romans seeking new experiences and foodies on the road. Behind the casual facade lies the influence of the Acquolina Group and two-Michelin-starred chef Daniele Lippi, who, in this boutique restaurant facing the Lungotevere, has successfully revived the memory of recipes that are only seemingly outdated (such as coda alla vaccinara, supplì with offal, and the good old crème caramel).
In the five months since its debut, everyone has been talking about “fine trattoria,” putting a twist on classic, rustic dishes often presented in a technical style (a trait shared with Li Somari, another restaurant from the team led by Adriano Baldassarre and named after the English term “donkey,” ed.); the expression, however, requires further clarification. The concept, in fact, does not stem from an oxymoron designed to shock, since simply copying and pasting styles would have risked further separating “the two worlds.” On the contrary, the team led by Lippi and Baldassarre in the kitchen and by Benito Cascone in the dining room has managed to bring them together in an original way, demonstrating how versatility is the true strength of this modern hotel restaurant.
The Donkey's Experience: Our Top Picks, from the Welcome to the First Courses
Let's hit the back button and return to our first impressions. At the entrance, it’s natural to feel a bit torn, at least at the time of this writing: on one hand, the midnight-blue armchairs, the ornate rugs, and the high ceilings that transport you to a “Great Gatsby”-style mansion; on the other, the outdoor pool with its white marble, surrounded by lounges and private nooks, where the vibrant bursts of color create a unique atmosphere after the aperitif.
Whatever the choice, the start leaves a lasting impression: forget mini-sized finger foods—say yes to the local “spread”. Thus, the bite to break the fast becomes a taste experience “from the heart” thanks to the Mousse of fava beans, wild fennel, salt, and oil, a sort of Lazio-style hummus to be scooped up with a warm loaf of bread or a fragrant pan-fried focaccia. For die-hard panzanella fans, one of the must-try appetizers is the red tuna with Taggiasca olives, caramelized onion, and the fresh zing of basil oil, where the frisella at the base is deliberately included to replace the soaked breadcrumbs of Roman panzanella, adding a crisp bite to a dish that’s already rich in sauces.
The same “multi-layered” flavor profile emerges in the shrimp carpaccio with mixed greens and ricotta mousse, whose tartness is enlivened by juicy pomegranate seeds. Moving on to the first courses, the pasta dishes give a boost to the generosity of the classic “neighborhood” dishes, in a to-share format that brings the art of creaming the sauce back into the spotlight. This is demonstrated by the Spaghetti with “Monteniro Riserva” cheese, pepper, and lemon-marinated red shrimp, in which the shellfish bisque adds a hint of extra saltiness to the creamy base: between the coast and the hinterland, urban cuisine that unexpectedly changes course.
Speaking of regional twists, three varieties of Ciro Flagella’s tomatoes are used to create the sauce for the Mezzo pacchero Gentile, thanks to the strategic combination of San Marzano, Datterino, and Casalino. The rustic touch? “Shaved sheep’s-milk ricotta as a finishing touch,” confides Noris Ezike, the mastermind behind a dining experience that perfectly blends warmth and professionalism. “We started with the ‘Da Vittorio’ model and adapted it to our context, using only oil to bind the starches and toppings. No butter here”.
The citrus notes prove to be the perfect finishing touch in the egg fettuccine, kneaded with a small amount of salt and tossed with a “old-fashioned” guinea fowl ragù. In this case, the citrus comes from orange zest, which is perfect for prolonging the aftertaste of the black hooked truffle and—at the same time—stimulating the taste buds with that missing touch of freshness.
The offal you wouldn’t expect in a 5-star restaurant
Here we are at the highlight of the menu: you’ll be hard-pressed to find such an extensive selection of offal-based dishes in a luxury 5-star hotel. In response, the kitchen team pulls out all the stops with the supplì, but with chicken giblets—“prepared by treating the offal just like a beef ragù.” Worth noting is the extended cooking time to infuse the rice with the aroma of the soffritto, and the panko breading that seals the batter, giving the outer crust a balanced thickness (rather than an excessive one, as is often the case). “This way, stale bread is fully repurposed from daily surplus. In fact, we personally oversee every step, from toasting to frying.”
The coda alla vaccinara hits the mark perfectly: slowly braised for 3 hours, it’s destined to become the filling for a meatball glazed with the meat’s own juices. On top, julienned celery breaks up the escalating intensity. Did someone say foie gras? No, at Palazzo Dama it becomes a chicken liver pâté, first simmered with brandy to round out its sharp edges and then served with a reduction of fig must, wild berries, and brioche toasted with Isigny butter from Normandy (the litmus test: the aromas that waft up to your nostrils!).
At the opposite end of the spectrum,the vibrant green flavors leave a strong impression in theFrench-style sweetbread, which is breaded in flour and quickly deep-fried in boiling oil. Not surprisingly, the crock layer consists of lemon zest, orange zest, and sage, while on the side is a cold-prepared Giardiniera made with water, vinegar, and cloves, plus anchovy mayo for a flavorful dipping sauce. Finally, the “Donkey’s-style” Fassona beef and marrow tartare shatters long-held assumptions about raw dishes, structured as a provocation against the American school of thought. Surprisingly, the egg yolk is absent, “because if the beef is of excellent quality, it should take center stage.” The result is a dish drizzled only with a bit of oil and salt, though made intriguing by the bread crumble flavored with rosemary oil, garlic, and fresh scallions. The crème caramel served by the poolside is the final dip into a historical tableau that feels fresh, leaving the impression of having watched the various upgrades of the city’s cuisine unfold like a film reel.
Palazzo Dama, from suites with a special pillow menu to the spa for relieving muscle tension
If a stay at Palazzo Dama were a feature story, it would resemble an art catalog to leaf through with a cocktail in hand more than a dusty essay on the history of Rome. It’s no coincidence that the subtle touch of Preferred Hotels & Resorts has gradually dismantled the stiffness of a gourmet hotel to make way for a welcoming, fluid, and decidedly international atmosphere.
For example, in the rooms and suites, relaxation goes beyond what’s promised in the brochure: as soon as you walk in, your eye is immediately drawn to the artistic photographs on the walls, the small vintage objects arranged in niches and on shelves, and the pillow menu featuring a special “roller” pillow designed to relieve neck pain. In this regard,the Dama Suite stands in a league of its own, featuring generous square footage, sculptural bathrooms with bathtubs and Acqua di Parma amenities, and a private terrace overlooking the garden—ideal for quiet relaxation, sheltered from the traffic. Yet, the truly avant-garde move lies in how the noble palace has reimagined the concept of a daily break: the 200 square meters of the new DAHAM Health&Beauty SPA embody a form of wellness free from formality, featuring crackling fireplaces, a Finnish sauna, and chaise longues where you can lose track of time, not to mention three treatment rooms reserved for muscle-relaxing therapies. It’s like being in a big-city movie—without having to act for even a moment!
Palazzo Dama - Donkey's Bar
Lungotevere Arnaldo da Brescia, 2, 00196 Rome, RM
Phone: 06 8956 5272
