From Plate to Crust: When Cacio e Pepe Becomes a Pocket-Sized Masterpiece, Courtesy of L’Elementare.
Imagine Rome’s most iconic dish on the table – the creaminess, the unmistakable aroma of Pecorino, the sharp kick of black pepper – suddenly shedding its familiar form to become a daring deep-fried creation that crackles between your fingers. This is no optical illusion, nor an act of culinary sacrilege, but Mirko Rizzo’s breaded cacio e pepe, the creation of one of the figures who have quite literally shaken up the world of pizza and fried food in the Italian capital.
Mirko Rizzo’s Pop Revolution and the World of L’Elementare
Playing with tradition in Rome is a risky business, but Rizzo does it with the effortless confidence of a true master. He has helped redefine contemporary Roman-style pizza with an honest dough and a rolling-pin technique that brings the methods of the city’s old-school pizzerias into the present day.
L’Elementare is the headquarters of this pop manifesto, and its family of pizzerias has gradually expanded, bringing the gospel of romana bassa e sottile – thin, crisp Roman-style pizza – to different corners of the city. Born in the heart of Trastevere, on Via Benedetta, the project has since expanded to San Giovanni, Tuscolano, Testaccio, Parco Appio and Casal Bertone.
At every location, the tonda is thin, rolled out strictly by hand, with a modest yet crispy crust and a wood-fired bake that tastes like home. Completing this circle of gastronomic happiness is the friggitoria: all barriers to flavour come tumbling down with fried treats that are crisp, indulgent yet surprisingly light. Rizzo brings the cornerstones of Lazio’s culinary tradition together inside a golden, crunchy shell.
From Pasta Dish to Fried Delight: The Anatomy of a Rebellious Tonnarello
At L’Elementare, the world of fried food embraces another Roman classic: tonnarelli cacio e pepe. But how do you capture the essence of a pasta dish inside a crispy breaded shell? The secret lies in getting the cheese béchamel just right: it coats the tonnarelli while they are still al dente, turning them into a filling only after being left to rest for the appropriate amount of time.
This is no simple way of repurposing leftovers. The pasta retains its firm texture on the inside, while the exterior – protected by a flavourful batter and breadcrumbs made exclusively from soft white bread, with a generous addition of pepper – delivers a textbook contrast of textures. Each bite brings together the comforting richness of the béchamel and the pepper’s spicy kick, which bursts across the palate just before the crisp outer coating gives way.
Here’s the recipe so you can recreate it at home!
THE L’ELEMENTARE TONNARELLO CACIO E PEPE RECIPE
Ingredients
For the cacio e pepe béchamel
350 g milk
35 g butter
25 g flour
3 g salt
135 g Pecorino cheese
2 g ground black pepper
For the pasta
160 g tonnarelli
2 litres water
20 g salt
For the coating
Breadcrumbs made from finely ground soft white bread only, with the crust removed
Cracked black pepper, to taste
350 g water
150 g plain flour
A pinch of salt
For frying
High-oleic sunflower oil or peanut oil
Method
Prepare the cacio e pepe béchamel: Make a classic béchamel by melting the butter and stirring in the flour. Gradually add the milk, stirring continuously until smooth and silky. Season with salt. Once the béchamel is ready, add the grated Pecorino and ground black pepper, stirring until the cheese has completely melted and all the ingredients are thoroughly combined.
Cook and dress the tonnarelli: Cook the tonnarelli in 2 litres of boiling water with 20 g of salt for 3 minutes. Drain and carefully mix with the cacio e pepe béchamel, making sure the pasta is evenly coated.
Portion: Allow the mixture to cool completely. Once cold and firm, divide it into portions and shape as desired, keeping to the intended weight for each supplì.
Prepare the coating: Mix the breadcrumbs, made exclusively from soft white bread with the crust removed, with the cracked black pepper. In a separate bowl, prepare a batter by whisking together 350 g of water, 150 g of plain flour and a pinch of salt until smooth and free of lumps. Dip each portion into the batter, allowing any excess to drip off, then roll it in the pepper breadcrumbs until evenly coated.
Fry and serve: Deep-fry in high-oleic sunflower oil or peanut oil at 170°C for approximately 4 minutes, until golden brown and crispy. Drain thoroughly and leave to rest for a couple of minutes before serving.
Contact
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