“Cannubi in Langa” is a sacred phrase, to be spoken with respect, that instantly transports you to the inner sanctum of wine. It is the most famous and prized Barolo cru, a symbol of the rebirth of a region that, before the wine boom, was marked by hardship and hunger, but is now a destination for thousands of tourists—both foreign and domestic—who love the “dolce vita” of food and wine tours. Locanda in Cannubi is located right in the heart of this noble region.
From its enchanting terrace, you can catch a glimpse of many of the municipalities included in the Barolo appellation regulations, and the sommelier points them out to us as if it were a ritual. As you approach the restaurant, the vineyards stretch out alongside it; on this warm summer evening, they’re heavy with grapes, almost ready for harvest, and the atmosphere at sunset is enchanting.
The History and the Restaurant
In an elegant 18th-century farmhouse owned by the Tenuta Carretta farm, owner Gianni Bertolini welcomes guests with old-world charm. Locanda in Cannubi has been in business for 14 years: before that, Gianni ran a restaurant in the Roero region with his parents. At the helm of the kitchen are Fabio Pungitore and Alex Olivero, who have been leading a young but solid team for several years now. Their collaboration combines Fabio’s balance—blending Piedmont’s culinary heritage with contemporary aesthetics—with Alex’s dynamism and technical precision, focused on the purity of ingredients. The menu is the result of this synergy, blending tradition and the future. The menu features the great classics of the Langhe, such as Fassona beef tartare, rabbit “tonno,” plin, and tajarin—highly sought after by those visiting Piedmont on a gourmet journey—but it also offers dishes rich in Mediterranean influences, appreciated by those wishing to explore new horizons beyond the hills.
Alex is from Fossano; ever since kindergarten, he’s made the kitchen his natural habitat, helping his grandmother make gnocchi and tajarin. Fabio is from Alba; he, too, has had his hands in dough since childhood, and his Southern roots have instilled in him a love for intense flavors, such as the use of rich, concentrated tomatoes. “The region isn’t a limitation; tradition pays off, and local ingredients are a resource,” they explain when we ask if it’s difficult to run a restaurant in a place so deeply rooted in culinary tradition—and whether they feel constrained by the Langhe’s “comfort zone.” In reality, in a place with such fierce competition, they’re constantly driven to do better, especially with the great classics. “We can’t rest on our laurels; local customers demand high quality in traditional dishes, so for us, it’s a constant challenge to do well”. The inn often hosts other restaurateurs for dinner as well, “exchanging ideas is the beauty of the Langa. There’s a positive competition in inspiring one another—not a negative one. This is a region that provides work for everyone,” Gianni tells us, with respect for the work that so many hands and minds have had to put in over the years to build a vibrant community like this one.
The main goal, therefore, is to keep the bar high for comfort food, but neither of them skips out on a bit of creativity. Every three months, the menu changes with the seasons; sometimes they introduce more innovative dishes, other times more classic ones. Fabio loves rich dishes that people don’t make at home because they require long or complex preparation, such as filet mignon in a crust with foie gras. Alex, on the other hand, prefers elegant appetizers such as raw tuna with anchovy sauce, mozzarella, and tomato sorbet, where he makes use of technologies like the Pacojet and a contemporary approach. Owner Gianni gives them complete freedom and trust; “They are my guardian angels” he says affectionately. And both express gratitude, recognizing that the opportunity to work with top-quality ingredients without rigid constraints is a great blessing. It’s a starting point that already lays a solid foundation for high-quality cuisine.
The Dishes and Drink Menu
The menu features the comfort of plin al tovagliolo —hand-rolled daily by Gianni’s 85-year-old mother, a masterpiece of craftsmanship and love—with the classic filling of three roasts, so flavorful that it requires no additional seasoning, and the perfect simplicity of fettuccina sautéed in butter with seasonal vegetable tartare.
The rabbit roll is also a family recipe, with a touch of Ligurian inspiration, featuring lemon, olives, and walnuts. But in other dishes, hints emerge of the chefs’ desire to venture off the beaten path of flavor—such as in the interplay of acidity in the round steak marinated in salt and sugar served with giardiniera and balsamic vinegar jelly, and in the bold combination of flavors in the risotto with tomatoes, mussels, and pecorino. This is a sign that over the years the restaurant has evolved, embracing more contemporary horizons, with a cuisine that refuses to remain stuck in the past, while never forgetting its roots—roots as deep as those of the vines.
The wine list pays homage to the hill where the restaurant is located, featuring 825 labels of the region’s grand crus, up-and-coming producers, and a touch of France, including Champagne and Burgundy. To fully enjoy the experience, a tasting of Barolo Cannubi DOCG—produced by Tenuta Carretta—is a must. Sipping it while letting your gaze wander freely over the hills completes a timeless magic and makes you feel connected to this iconic place.
The goal of the Locanda in Cannubi team is to stay the course—to remain a staple in the Langhe—without necessarily chasing accolades, but simply seeking the smiles of returning customers. The dream is to “build a solid career, be an icon, and ensure continuity over time”, says Alex, “while always evolving and always going that extra mile,” adds Fabio. The restaurant’s success is the result of “a lot of sacrifice and a lot of luck—and the hard work of the entire team,” says Gianni. “Without investors, we need customers to sit down and eat. That’s our greatest success.” And they never fail to show special appreciation for their most loyal customers.
And when difficulties arise—because this is not an easy time for the restaurant industry, even in places as well-suited and highly regarded as this—all you have to do is step out onto the terrace, let yourself be enveloped by the beauty of the landscape, and breathe in the history of resilience of these hills to find the strength to keep going. Here, the landscape is not just a backdrop; it serves as a daily reminder that time, patience, and tenacity can transform even the most difficult seasons. “We’re in a beautiful place—never give up” is the mantra that echoes here. A few simple, essential words that help restore perspective, get back to work, and keep believing in the future.
Locanda In Cannubi
Via Crosia, 14, 12060 Barolo CN
Phone: 0173 56294
