From a one-Michelin-star restaurant to a rooftop with a view of the Pantheon: Francesco Apreda’s cosmopolitan approach is revolutionizing hotel cuisine, featuring dishes with global influences and pizzas with spicy blends.
Photos by Matteo Barro and Alberto Blasetti
The dining room at Idylio could be perfectly split down the middle between regulars and those unfamiliar with Francesco Apreda’s cuisine. The former are certain they’ll find glimpses of Campania on the menu, tinged with the mandala-like geometric patterns characteristic of much of the East; the latter are struck by that same expressive polyphony that etches itself into their memory until the moment they return. The fact is that, in Rome, The Pantheon Iconic is one of the few fine-dining restaurants where guests of any nationality have the chance to catch at least a glimpse of their own culinary experiences in every bite—whether it’s a blend of spices on the “spreadable” burrata or the aromas of Mumbai in the penne all’arrabbiata.
A global puzzle that, in turn, fits into broader contexts, because at its core stands a hotel capable of attracting a decidedly cosmopolitan crowd—from the “pizza & drinks” aperitif on the Divinity Terrace to a gourmet evening at the 1-Michelin-starred restaurant. While the centerpiece of the dining experience is undoubtedly the “salt-free” tasting menu—a burst of umami and natural savory notes that amplifies the flavors of each ingredient—the chef has, over time, developed a range of dining options that blend innovation with flexibility, while also catering to those less familiar with the intricate language of experimental recipes. Thus, at Idylio, you can simply walk in to create a custom menu (with four courses selected from the menu for 150€), to sample the signature dishes, or to literally test the waters with the vegetarian option (Green Butterfly, ed.). But what makes Apreda’s offerings today such a clear reflection of Rome’s cultural fluidity? We asked ourselves this question again as we updated our “memory file” at the recently renovated sign just a few steps from the hotel’s entrance.
The Experience and the Dishes
Don’t expect that cold, stiff service that often dampens your enthusiasm before you’ve even sat down: at Idylio, the hospitality and the wine cellar follow the easygoing lead of Patrizio Pizzi, who’s ready to draw from a treasure trove of over 1,600 wine labels; he deserves credit for knowing how to “complement” through wine pairings both the spicy notes and the more “mineral” elements crafted by the chef (see the “Eco del mare,” the tasting menu completely free of added salt).
The welcome immediately plays its trump card with a Neapolitan entrée: fried pizza topped with tomato powder, olives, and capers, a bite of pure authenticity condensed into just a few centimeters that opens the door to the amuse-bouche. There’s the airy lightness of the lemon meringue, basil pesto, yellowtail tartare, and kombu seaweed micro-meringues; the three-dimensional roundness of the tempura-fried quail egg, a crisp shell encasing Japanese dressing, soy sauce, lemon, and horseradish, plus a zesty brushstroke of bell pepper gel; the delicate architecture of the “Pantheon-style” zucchini dome (glazed in coconut milk, enlivened by an anchovy cream, and enriched with the usual quartet of spices); finally, the purifying finale provided by the radish steeped in Gin Mare, with a lemon gel at its core and flakes of Maldon salt.
Then, a surprise: when the bread-making process finally begins, “salt-free” ceases to be a mere claim and becomes a tangible reality. The bread made with carob flour, in fact, owes its structural intensity to the addition of kombu seaweed to the dough and the dark layer of nori seaweed on the surface: an ideal base for the “spreadable” burrata, onto which Apreda once again imprints his signature aroma. If you, too, are a die-hard fan of Wagyu, the pizzaiola-style carpaccio will make you see it in a whole new light. Here, the rich, marbled circle of meat is “broken up” by a soft kefir, whose lactic caress is both gentle and incisive. On top, a brunoise of fennel, caviar, and cucumber—in perfect harmony—maintains the juiciness, further refreshed by the tangy zing of the agretto and the fermented lemon gel. On the side, a marinara-style brioche bread balances the tang and offers the perfect excuse to soak up the sauce: it’s the raw-cooked combination that reveals something new.
The vertical plunge into the sea comes with the amberjack cooked between lemon leaves and the oil extracted from the fish’s own head (no waste—right?). On one hand, cooking in oil tenderizes the texture of the fillet; on the other, the base features a dialogue between the bitter aftertaste of the friggitelli peppers and the bean extract, while the fermented watermelon and arugula enhance the vegetable kick. To get your jaws moving, there’s crispy stale bread, double-dried and treated with the same marinating oil. A masterful, zero-waste creation. From Green Butterfly, the Spicy Eggplant with Pistachios and Plums upends the protein hierarchy: the vegetable, cured in salt and accented by a brunoise of chili pepper, almost mimics the meatiness of a fillet. Taking center stage are a creamy soy sauce, pistachio paste, and plums simmered in Vermouth with tomato vinegar.
The direct flight to Asia continues with the Black & Black “acqua pazza” risotto, where the Riserva San Massimo Carnaroli rice (toasted with shallots, simmered in white wine, and finished with tomato water) embraces a robust medley of mussels, clams, cuttlefish, and scampi. On top, the citrusy burst of black lime complements the balsamic notes of black garlic powder, creating a harmonious blend of the Gulf’s sunny character and the spice route.
No less surprising is the interpretation of Spaghetti with garlic, olive oil, and chili pepper: here, it is the Capellini Mancini—cooked without even a pinch of salt in a concentrated sea bass broth—that serves as the vehicle for the clams, seared over an open flame. The finale, somewhere between astringent and fruity, features dried medlars—similar to sun-dried tomatoes—and cocoa-infused horseradish, creating a finish that lingers with toasty and spicy notes. Also noteworthy is the eucalyptus-glazed pork capocollo, served on a velvety black sesame pâté and accompanied by charred lettuce with house-made chili pepper pickles. The reduction of suckling pig, yellow mustard, and eucalyptus weaves the theme of a balsamic dish with a Middle Eastern flair.
The meal concludes with a dessert that strikes the perfect balance between sugar and fruit-to-vegetable ratios, thanks to the steady hand of pastry chef Giulia Iengo: Peach, Chocolate, and Pastis dares to pair 80% dark chocolate with orange, anise, and cucumber gel. The botanical elements are masterfully executed in this unexpected closing dessert.
The Hotel’s Rooftop—The Aerial Alternative: Divinity Terrace
The hotel’s culinary journey doesn’t end with the elegant ambiance of the Idylio dining room: head up to the sixth floor, where Divinity Terrace breathes new life into the urban rooftop experience, moving beyond the typical panoramic cocktail bar to become a vibrant hub.
Here, the view of the Pantheon’s domes and oculus opens up to other pop-inspired scenes: the star of the apericena is the Spezial Pizza, a signature pizza to share while facing Sant’Ivo. The dough, light and airy with just the right amount of crispiness at the edges, is served in tasting slices so you can sample the chef’s various creations, from the round pizza made with semolina flour to the square whole-wheat version. The chef’s signature style shines through in his thoughtful use of blends of Eastern spices applied to local ingredients: options range from the Marinara with black garlic, black lime, and Cantabrian anchovies to the summery combination of smoked provola, fried zucchini, and green curry, all the way to the white pizza with rosemary, topped with black olives and coriander seeds.
Alongside the baked goods, Divinity’s menu features freshly prepared carpaccio, sea bass with pipl-pil sauce and curly escarole, and tagliolini with zucchini, mint, and lemon. All of this is “complemented” by signature cocktails that constantly evolve with the seasons, ranging from drinks dedicated to Rome to exotic variations. A versatile venue, open for lunch and dinner, or enjoyed on the fly during aperitif hour in the Lounge Bar setting.
Matter and Myth: The Architecture of The Pantheon Iconic
Returning to earth—or rather, stepping across the threshold onto Via di Santa Chiara—one realizes how the pleasurable experience is a direct emanation of the building that houses it. Designed by Studio Marco Piva, The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel interprets the legacy of Imperial Rome by stripping it of any archaeological commentary or dusty nostalgia.
The entrance is an authentic tunnel of bronze and soft lighting that shields guests from the hustle and bustle of the historic center, leading them into a promenade marked by dark marble and golden reflections. The circle is the dominant visual motif of the structure, a clear reference to the oculus of the Pantheon’s dome, which is reflected both in the floor inlays and in the lighting fixtures. Inside the rooms, polished brass and fine marble share the stage with soft leathers, upholstery fabrics in imperial red hues, and bathrooms that evoke the architecture of ancient Roman baths in a minimalist, contemporary style. A cozy little world where luxury is never ostentatious, but a direct connection to history that spills over into the present.
Contacts
The Pantheon Iconic Rome Hotel - Idylio By Apreda
Via di S. Chiara, 4, 00186 Rome, RM
Phone: +39 06 8780 7070
Website:
