In the heart of the historic Bolognina district, just a stone's throw from the historic center of “dotta, grassa, rossa” (wise, fat, red) Bologna, there is a place where past and present meet: Mercato Albani, a market that has been enlivening this neighborhood since 1934 and is now undergoing a contemporary and unconventional revival. Here, Ligera offers popular dishes with a creative twist, serving daily specials starting at €8 and many other delicacies, from hummus to fried foods.
Among the stalls once reserved exclusively for food products, there is now space for innovative and unconventional projects. Among these, Ligera – Nuova Cucina Popolare stands out, a bistro founded in 2020 that has chosen to set up shop in the heart of the market with an offering that combines creative cuisine, conviviality, and an underground aesthetic. The man behind this vision is Niccolò Gozza, chef and owner, whose original approach has contributed to the transformation of the market into a symbol of a new urban sociality. Niccolò does not come from a traditional hotel background. A native of Bologna with a degree in political science, he discovered his vocation for cooking in Milan: “I've always been a good eater, but it was during university that I developed the desire to go beyond an academic career. My passion for cooking grew steadily, and along the way I was fortunate to meet mentors who had a profound influence on me and inspired me greatly.”
His determination and passion quickly propelled him to bridge the gap with those who had followed a more conventional training path, cutting his teeth in the kitchens of top restaurants:"My first real approach was at Al Mercato with Eugenio Roncoroni and Beniamino Nespor, an experience that opened me up to Asian and Mexican influences in a context of great experimentation and creativity, a truly interesting moment of discovery. I then moved on to Erba Brusca by Alice Delcourt, where I learned a great deal about ethics, sustainability, and humanity in the kitchen." His journey continued in the kitchen of Daniel Canzian, where he says, “I learned rigor, discipline, and technique. This job is all about teamwork, and to work well, you have to be focused and respect the rules of coexistence and work in the kitchen.”
He then joined Simone Salvini "where I learned everything there is to know about vegetarian cuisine. Simone is an incredible person, with a wealth of knowledge and an extraordinary ability to pass it on."This unusual path has allowed him to develop a style that stands out for its originality and innovation, qualities that today define the identity of Ligera, his culinary project that aims to give tradition a new appeal.
LIGERA: RESEARCH INSPIRED
Let's start with the name to define Ligera: "I liked the sound of the name Ligera. In Bolognese dialect, it means ‘brigand’, penniless. I had just returned from Milan, where there was also the famous ‘Ligera gang’, so for me it represented a mix of references. It's a name that doesn't take itself too seriously, light and not too rigid." The name reflects the environment: once you arrive at box 13, Ligera's Nuova Cucina Popolare looks like a small glass and wood bistro, with a structure that recalls the lightness and simplicity of Japanese izakaya. I let Niccolò guide me, and I sit down at one of the restaurant's outdoor tables, observing the lively melting pot of people who animate the Mercato Albani, while Niccolò tells me how his project came about.
"We started with a proposal focused on bread making, which we maintain given the context we are in, but over time we have moved towards a more varied cuisine. We don't define ourselves as street food or a traditional bistro, but something more playful and informal. We pay great attention to seasonality and offer vegetarian, vegan, and gluten-free dishes. The dishes of the day vary daily according to inspiration. The dishes on the menu have a clear and recognizable identity, and we pair them with craft beers, natural wines that focus mainly on the local area, and a selection of mixology creations by Guglielmo, our barman."
THE DISHES: CLASSICS WITH A TWIST
To start, a Spanish suggestion: ham croquettes, octopus, vegan mayonnaise, and smoked paprika, a tapa served with a glass of Zapiain Sagardoa, a Basque cider that is perfect with this dish. The intense flavor of the ham harmonizes with the delicacy of the octopus, while a mayonnaise prepared with the octopus cooking water gives the dish lightness, and smoked paprika adds character. “I really like Spanish cuisine. I've traveled a lot in Spain and every time I go back, I appreciate it more and more. Lately, we've been drawing a lot of inspiration from there.” Next up is Pea and avocado hummus with crisp spring vegetables, a dish that plays with textures, exploring a terrain of great freshness.
The exploration of this menu continues with a dish that breaks the mold: Hot/Cold: Roasted bone marrow, CBT cuttlefish carpaccio, and nori seaweed. Here, two distinct types of fat are combined: the rich bone marrow and the lighter cuttlefish, which together create a full but balanced texture in the mouth, velvety without being heavy. “Marrow is a dish I've had in mind for a long time. It's a bit risky, but often it's the things you believe in most that work best. I really enjoy working with meat and fish, and the idea of playing with marrow fascinated me. I was looking for a seafood element to pair it with, and cuttlefish proved to be the perfect choice.”
The next dish leaves the underground environment behind and evokes an immediate connection with the sea: Cold Spaghetti Mancini, Cuttlefish Tentacles, Glasswort, Spicy Tomato Sauce and Jamaican Pepper, a dish inspired by an iconic idea of Gualtiero Marchesi, revisited with the aim of enhancing every part of the raw ingredient. With Terrina Cotta/Cruda comes what Niccolò describes as the “craziest” moment of the menu, confirming what I had sensed from the beginning: an instinctive and free approach. "There are three of us in the kitchen: Vincenzo, from Naples, Daniele, from Puglia, and me: a mix that is also reflected in the dish. It's a cross between Bolognese coppa di testa and Neapolitan o' pere e o' muss, made with veal head, pig's head, trotters, and shank. We were undecided whether to serve it hot or cold. In the past, I served it hot: in that case, you can taste the fatty components more, the flavors are softer, but you lose some of the crunchier textures."
The cold version, on the other hand, has more bite, more crunch and a different freshness. “In the end, we decided to combine the two. Instead of the classic lemon used in pur' ‘e o’ muss, we chose to use a ceviche: it's fresh, summery, and helps to cut through the fat of the pork.” The last dish, Polpette al sugo di Podere Pereto, prugne essiccate e scorza di limone (meatballs in Podere Pereto sauce with dried plums and lemon zest), is a traditionally comforting dish that encapsulates Ligera's philosophy: reinterpreting the great classics of Italian cuisine through fusion and cross-cultural influences.
The menu concludes with a stick of white chocolate and rosemary ice cream covered in dark chocolate and dried fruit: a fragrant and well-constructed finale that is simple yet well thought out. Ligera – Nuova Cucina Popolare embodies a philosophy that opposes the weight of rigid traditions, embracing instead a contemporary and inclusive approach, where each dish becomes an encounter between innovation and culinary memory. The focus remains on experimentation, fun, and creative freedom, fueled by an intimate atmosphere that ensures balance, serenity, and passion, sustainable working hours, and attention to quality of life. A project far from dogma and anything but predictable.
LIGERA NUOVA CUCINA POPOLARE
Mercato Albani Box 13-14
Via Francesco Albani 10- 40129 Bologna
Phone 3391301173
