“I constantly research the history of the area, while experimenting with different techniques.” Jessica Rosval talks about herself in an exclusive interview with our editor Pietro Pio Pitzalis. “At Al Gatto Verde, I have revisited the borlengo, a dish from the Apennines that was once considered humble, yet today represents the incredible richness of the mountains and its precious ingredients.” From the fine dining menu to breakfast at Casa Maria Luigia, the story at the Identità Golose Congress.
Photo credits: Stefania Gambella
2024 was the crowning achievement of intense work that we saw come to fruition with Reporter Gourmet. It all started with the idea of brunch and then, after years of evolution, it became a fine dining "barbecue" restaurant, giving life to Al Gatto Verde. Finally, the Michelin star and the green star arrived. Are you happy? How are you feeling right now?
Of course I'm happy! It's been a great year of growth for us. Al Gatto Verde, as you said, started out as a humble barbecue that we began doing in the garden with friends, with the people of Modena, simply to get together around the table after lockdown. It started out with that simplicity and has grown steadily over the years to become what it is today.
To me, this conveys an important message, because it demonstrates the value of patience: it is essential to be patient with ourselves and to embrace a process that leads to learning, allowing an idea to evolve over time. This is what we did by studying open-flame cooking for four whole years. We studied extensively to create this new approach to fine dining: everything starts with direct cooking over the fire, but this is intertwined with contemporary cooking techniques. That's why we are very pleased with the results.
Another interesting format you have developed is the breakfast at Casa Maria Luigia, which is also often based on charcoal cooking. This is a model that many are beginning to follow.
That's right, we explore all types of cooking over fire at Casa Maria Luigia: we have always done so, from the very beginning, because leaving the historic center of Modena and finding ourselves in the Emilian countryside ‘freed’ us from the closed context of kitchens. Suddenly we were surrounded by nature in a large open space, with the possibility of using wood-fired ovens and grills in a way that is not possible in a city.
Naturally, the first menu developed at Casa Maria Luigia was the breakfast one. After all, it is the most important meal of the day: you wake up in the middle of the Emilian countryside with the fog, but you smell these smoky fragrances, the aromas of focaccia and cakes baking in our outdoor ovens... so it all started like that, from customs based on local traditions. Local customs, rightly reinvented to suit the hotel and our type of service; however, at the heart of it all is a great respect for the tradition of Emilian cuisine.
Alright. Back to Al Gatto Verde, is there a dish that you particularly like or that represents you more than others?
When it comes to the menu and the dishes, it's always difficult to choose a favorite creation, because they all come from extensive research: there is commitment behind every bite, and this is evident throughout the meal. In addition, some dishes have always remained on the menu but have evolved over time. Among these is borlengo, a classic dish from the Apennines, which was once considered poor fare because it was made only with water and flour and filled with lard and a little Parmigiano Reggiano (if available).
However, thinking about it today, the Apennines are a place full of riches, producing what we consider to be the most luxurious products. Mushrooms, truffles, and the finest cheeses, or the milk that comes from Zocca, our dairy. So, I have reinvented borlengo, the symbol of the Apennines, while paying homage to the richness of the mountains where it was born. Right now, I am offering it in a sweet version, which I particularly like.
I will certainly continue to research the history of the area, because I have chosen Modena as the place to live and work. I therefore want to show great respect for the local gastronomic culture, experimenting with something unique through technique.
