Food & Wine

Mexico's starred-kiosk selling 3,000 tacos in 8 hours: “Michelin? We didn't know what it was."

by:
Elisa Erriu
|
copertina el califa de leon 2025 03 17 01 32 10

“I never sought awards, I only ever did my work with passion,” Rivera recounts today. Yet fate had other plans for him.

Immagine di copertina: @Fernando Llano, Associated Press


The Story

What would you do if an unexpected phone call announced that you had just received a Michelin star? If your name was Arturo Rivera, you'd probably think you'd won a set of new tires for your car. And that's exactly what happened to the chef of Mexico City's “El Califa de León” taqueria , the first taco stand to earn the world's most coveted gastronomic accolade (find the full story in this article of ours). Rivera, a grill master with 20 years of experience, has never considered himself a great chef. His talent, honed amid the smoke and heat of street cooking, was bound to win over palates without him being fully aware of it. Then, Infobae magazine reports, one day in May 2024, some guests showed up at the stand to try his tacos. No one told him that they were Michelin inspectors. No one let him know that he was about to make Mexican gastronomic history.

el califa de leon tacos 2
 

“I have never sought awards, I have only ever done my work with passion,” the street food artisan otherwise clarifies. Yet fate had other plans for him. A few days later, an official invitation summoned him to the awards ceremony. Rivera, initially skeptical, was unclear about what the award was: “I thought I had won tires for my car. Michelin, tires-I put two and two together." But when it was explained to him that he had received something much bigger, his life changed forever. The victory, which came at a time marked by the recent passing of his parents, made the recognition even more meaningful. Unable to attend the ceremony, Michelin representatives came directly to his kiosk to present him with the prestigious star. “El Califa de León” thus became the symbol of a culinary revolution: proof that haute cuisine can be born anywhere, even on a hot plate in a popular market.

Arturo RiveraREUTERS Gustavo Graf
@REUTERS-Gustavo-Graf

The secret to Rivera's success? No secret formula, no daring experimentation: just three ingredients-meat, corn and vegetables-and maniacal attention to quality. A simple, authentic taco, perfect in its essentiality. A dish that, within a few months, attracted curious and gluttonous crowds, driven by the desire to taste Mexico's first star taco. Since that day, the pace of the taqueria has become frenetic. Rivera and his team get to serve more than 3,100 tacos in a single eight-hour shift. The clientele has soared, notoriety has exploded, but the chef has remained true to himself. He continues to cook as he always has, with humility and passion, proving that sometimes all it takes is a simple taco to change the world.

el califa de leon tacos 1
 

And if you happen to pass through Mexico City and find a long line in front of a taqueria, know that you may be waiting for the best taco of your life. The one that conquered Michelin without even realizing it.

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