One of Milan's most historic restaurants has chosen the renovated Galleria Alberto Sordi to spread its gastronomic credo interpreted by chef Edoardo Ferrera.
The story
Rome vs Milan, an eternal dualism that is often fulfilled even at the table. In recent years, however, Capitoline gastronomic culture has successfully insidiously managed to win over most Milanese citizens, resulting in a succession of Roman trattoria openings including Felice in Testaccio, Eggs, il Marchese and Velavevodetto in Milan. A one-way event that deprived the City of Rome of a restaurant celebrating the cuisine of the Lombard capital, a gap finally filled in the summer of 2024 by the opening of Stendhal Milano, in the renovated Galleria Alberto Sordi.
A historic address opened in the Brera district back in 1988 by Italo Manca. Then in the 2000s the turning point, with the purchase of the property by the Forti family, which added to the historicity of the sign that touch of contemporaneity-both in the environments and in the gastronomic proposal-that would elect over time Stendhal as one of the best Milanese restaurants in the city. An entrepreneurial vision continued by Marcello Forti (second generation of the family), who succeeded in the feat of opening the first Milanese address in Rome.
"Bringing a little bit of Milan to the heart of Rome is a real challenge. Stendhal Milano wants to be not only a flagship of modern Milanese gastronomic culture, but in general a place where you can feel good at any time of the day, and to do this there is nothing better than the large living room of Galleria Alberto Sordi,” says Marcello Forti.
The restaurant
One of Stendhal's hallmarks is green, a color that we also find in the new Rome location. A restaurant developed on two floors - with a chef's table of 3 places on the upper floor - and designed to welcome customers from lunchtime until after dinner, thanks to the important design project by the international studio Vudafieri-Saverino Partners. The Milanese restaurant, in addition to offering typical Milanese cuisine, wanted to create a connection with Rome through dishes that pay homage to the city, such as “Spago” carbonara and Bombolotti alla amatriciana, and an entire menu, Degusta Roma, which in 4 acts narrates the restaurant's culinary tradition. If, on the other hand, you want to savor true Milanese cuisine, Degusta Milano recounts in 5 courses the dishes that made Stendhal's history.
Curating the restaurant's offerings is executive chef Edoardo Ferrera, a Genoese chef born in 1967 who has had the good fortune to cook around the world-in places like New York, Tokyo, and Freiburg-and alongside iconic names such as Gualtieri Marchesi and Alain Chapel. “The sacred dishes of tradition coexist with more innovative proposals, which over the years have become the 'new classics of the Milanese tradition' signed Stendhal Milano, such as Italian Wagyu bresaola and sautéed squash blossoms stuffed with ricotta and pesto alla genovese. And all of this is presented following a current aesthetic, to modernize the idea of the old Milanese trattoria, in its ambience and menu, and transport it to the modern day. This is the Stendhal Milano style,", explains Marcello Forti.
The Dishes
To immediately immerse guests in the flavors of Milanese cuisine, it is a must to start with the traditional Mondeghili, tasty meatballs that are a must on Stendhal's menu. The second appetizer is a totally different approach: a Tortino di scarola with olives, raisins, pine nuts, anchovies and pecorino fondue. Here the chef is good at enhancing the sweetness of the escarole with the savoriness of the pecorino and the persistence of the anchovies. Among Stendhal's historic dishes is, ça va sans dire, the Yellow Risotto with ossobuco and saffron, perfect both technically and aesthetically, with a beautiful golden color and a vibrant flavor “caused” by the marrow of the meat dissolved in the mantecatura and mellowed by the saffron.
Edoardo Ferrera has fun “playing” with the excellent raw material available, as demonstrated by the interesting Plin of chestnut flour stuffed with fatty ox and cooked in capon broth - with great transparency -, before giving us a taste of an impeccable Milanese-style Veal Schnitzel. The browning given by tasseling it in butter primes the meat, on whose surface a generous dose of white truffle is sprinkled, giving the dish an excellent fragrance.
Closing the meal was a mix of well-executed desserts in mignon version: Lemon Tart, Tarte Tatin, Crème Caramel and Chocolate Tiramisu, served on a scenic cutting board.
Contact
Stendhal Roma
Alberto Sordi Gallery, 00187 Rome
T. 06 5582395
