The Michelin Guide represents every chef's dream, but among the many accolades it offers, the Michelin Young Chef award has a special significance: it celebrates young talents who distinguish themselves through passion and skill, proving that age is no limit to excel. In 2024 it went to Turkey's Ulaş Durmaz, who at just 24 is already considered a promising international chef.
A passion born in the family, but grown elsewhere
Ulaş comes from a family of chefs: his grandfather and father ran their own restaurants, but it was not easy for him to enter the kitchen. “They did not want me to work with them, they knew the difficulties of the job,”, he tells Michelin Guide. However, even as a child, Ulaş was fascinated by the culinary world, preferring to watch cooking videos rather than cartoons. His path, however, did not begin in the family restaurants.
At 14, he started as a dishwasher in a hotel, where his curiosity for cooking did not go unnoticed. Prompted by the chefs he worked with, he decided to enroll in Ayvalık Vocational High School, where he honed his skills.
The turning points: from Ayvalık to Istanbul.
Until the age of 18, Ulaş worked in Ayvalık, but it was the move to Istanbul in 2021 that marked a turning point in his career. After experiences at such prestigious restaurants as Hodan and Aman Da Bravo, in February 2023 he became chef at The Red Balloon, a restaurant he turned into a landmark for haute cuisine.
Here, Ulaş combines tradition and innovation, creating seasonal menus that pay homage to his roots in the Aegean, but with a modern twist. His creations mix Asian and French techniques, reinterpreting Mediterranean and Anatolian flavors.
Boundless creativity
Chef Durmaz is known for his ability to experiment, combining local ingredients with international techniques. One example is his dish Tuna & Mango, in which tuna meets mango, horseradish, and the famous Samandağ chili.
Nothing is wasted: the less valuable parts of the fish are turned into an original version of çiğköfte (raw meatballs) and served as amuse-bouche. Each dish is an explosion of flavors and textures that reflects his philosophy: respect for ingredients, boldness in experimentation, and attention to detail.
Sustainability at the heart of the kitchen
Sustainability is one of the pillars of Ulaş's work. At The Red Balloon, many ingredients are grown directly in a nearby orchard, while vegetable waste from the kitchen is turned into compost at Damlıca Farm.
This circular economy model ensures that fruits and vegetables produced in Istanbul are consumed in the city, with a reduced environmental impact. Ingredients that cannot be grown locally are purchased from regional suppliers, such as tuna from Çanakkale, octopus from Babakale, and spices from Mardin.
Vegetables as stars
Ulaş has a special passion for vegetables. "When I see something green, I go crazy. Spring is my favorite season,", he says. This love is reflected not only in her choice of ingredients - Sultani peas, zucchini, artichokes - but also in her vegan menu offerings.
To him, vegetables are not just a side dish, but the heart of dishes. Rooted in Aegean cuisine, rich in olive oil and fresh flavors, Ulaş manages to transform fruits and vegetables into the true stars of his culinary offerings.
An experience not to be missed
“I wouldn't have been so happy even if I had received a star!”, he said during the ceremony, aware that he still has a future ahead to conquer the most coveted goals.
For those who want to discover the cuisine of this young chef, a visit to The Red Balloon is a must. Located in Istanbul, the restaurant is open Tuesday through Saturday for dinner from 5:30 pm. With his talent, creativity, and commitment to sustainability, Chef Durmaz represents a new generation of chefs capable of inspiring and innovating, while never losing sight of respect for traditions.
