Iyo Kaiseki: how Claudio Liu created a Zen refuge among Milan's skyscrapers

by:
Elisa Erriu
|
copertina iyo kaiseki

“We didn't want to create a restaurant, but rather a place where time stands still.” The symphony of IYO Kaiseki was born from the convergence of talents who bring with them traditions, experiences and visions, plus the touch of authentic Japanese cuisine: the story of one of Milan's most beloved restaurants, from philosophy to dishes.

A zen retreat among the skyscrapers of Milan: the art of IYO Kaiseki

If Milan is a tiger silhouetted against the sky, defying time with its frenetic spirit, skin streaked with avant-garde design and hunger, the hunger of those who are never satiated, there is a dragon who guides it, calmly, wisely, well hidden among those skyscraper-shaped claws: it is IYO Kaiseki, a dream that has come from afar. Here time stands still and space arches, like the back of a crane before flight. Here flavor becomes taste, aesthetics a ritual, and simplicity turns into essentiality. Here there is no longer Milan, there is no Japan. There is something of both and more.

iyo kaiseki esterni
 

The idea of Claudio Liu, a visionary entrepreneur who brought Japanese cuisine to a level of excellence in Italy, was clear: to create a place where Japan's purest tradition could dialogue with contemporary sensibilities. "IYO Kaiseki is my love letter to Japanese culture, but also a tribute to the elegance I find in Italian cuisine, ” Liu explains. His vision has resulted in a dining experience that is not just about the food, but invites the diner to a total immersion in an ancient philosophy.

iyo kaiseki sala2
 

The origin of kaiseki: when cooking becomes meditation

To understand the depth of kaiseki, one must go back centuries to the strict Zen disciplines of Japanese Buddhist monks. The term “kaiseki” refers to the hot stones that monks wrapped in their robes to relieve hunger during long meditations in the Muromachi period, a time of great cultural ferment around the 14th century. This poetic metaphor represents the heart of this cuisine: a frugal meal, related more to the concept of nourishment than appetite, a cuisine that should not only satiate the body, but also the soul.

Katsumi Soga
 

In the period when the tea ceremony was not just a convivial time but a spiritual ritual, towards the end of the Sen no Rikyū era in the late 1500s, this cuisine evolved, becoming the pinnacle of Japanese gastronomy. Its principles are based on strict attention to seasonality, purity of ingredients, and the art of presentation. Each dish tells a story, evokes a landscape, celebrates the passage of the seasons. The flavors never overlap, but follow each other gracefully, complementing each other in the sacredness of an ancient ceremony. It is a cuisine that demands silence and respect, as much from those who create it as from those who enjoy it.

IYO Kaiseki cucina
 

The Restaurant

As soon as you cross the threshold of IYO Kaiseki, you are enveloped in an atmosphere that seems suspended between two worlds. Soft light caresses the minimalist furnishings, inspired by the wabi-sabi aesthetic, where the imperfect becomes perfect and every object tells a story. The ceramics, handmade by Japanese artisans, seem to dialogue with the modern materials of Milanese design, in a meeting of cultures that perfectly reflects the essence of the restaurant.

iyo kaiseki sala
 

We did not want to create a restaurant, but a place where time stands still, “ says Claudio Liu. The balance between modernity and tradition is also found in the service, impeccable but never intrusive, which takes each guest on a journey of discovery.

The team: the hands that tell the story of Japan at IYO Kaiseki

The symphony of IYO Kaiseki comes from the convergence of talents who bring with them traditions, experiences and visions. The heart of the brigade beats under the leadership of Katsumi Soga, a Japanese chef born in Shizuoka prefecture. Trained in the strict school of kaiseki, Soga embodies the balance between rigor and creativity, combining respect for tradition with a constant quest for innovation. Each of his dishes is a tribute to nature and seasonality, a palette of colors and flavors that evoke the landscapes of Japan.

iyo kaiseki katsumi soga
 

Alongside him is Pastry Chef Luca De Santi, who brings a European sensibility to sweet creations, transforming desserts into an encounter between East and West. His ability to play with textures and contrasts makes each end of a meal an enveloping and surprising experience. Rounding out the team in the kitchen is Travelling Chef Takeshi Iwai, whose vision pushes the boundaries of traditional, introducing modern techniques that enrich and renew the flavors of the menu.

iyo kaiseki amuse
 

But the IYO Kaiseki experience does not end with the kitchen. The perfect orchestration of service is provided by the leadership of Federica Strolego, restaurant manager since 2022. Originally from Ancona, Federica brings with her a rich and multifaceted background: a bachelor's degree in International Economics, a master's degree in International Business, and an AIS diploma. “Empathy and hospitality,” she explains, ”are at the heart of my work. My goal is to bring out the best in each person, allowing them to express themselves and share experiences and cultures." Under her guidance, each guest is not only welcomed, but listened to and pampered, in an environment that combines professionalism and human warmth.

iyo kaiseki WAGYU SUKIYAKI
 

Rounding out the sensory experience is the talent of Vanessa Simini, a sommelier who is passionate about Japanese culture and a great sake expert. Born in Taranto, Vanessa has combined her love for fine dining with rigorous training that includes an AIS diploma and qualification with the Sake Sommelier Association. Her expertise manifests itself in pairings studied down to the smallest details, capable of surprising even the most discerning palates. From courses entirely dedicated to sake to proposals alternating sake and wine, Vanessa takes advantage of the wide selection of the restaurant's cellar, with more than 700 references ranging from the best Italian wines to the most sought-after sake.

IYO Kaiseki Bento Lunch00004
 

This team of excellence, each with its own history and expertise, moves in perfect harmony, creating a harmony that elevates every detail of the IYO Kaiseki experience. From the first smile in the dining room to the last dish served, everything contributes to making the journey more than a tasting: a journey.

The Mini Lunch Menu: a symphony in five movements

For those who wish to savor the essence of kaiseki in a more contained time, the team has recently designed and proposed a “mini” formula only in form, but not in content. From Tuesday to Friday, a number of special menus are available for lunchtime. The first proposal is the typical Bento, the Japanese lunch box, which contains three proposals for 50 euros: Bento Sashimi, Bento Sushi, and Bento Kobachi, in which in addition to the main preparations, there are Agemono (fried), Yakimono(griddle cooked dish), marinated vegetables, steamed white rice, miso soup, and dessert of the day.

IYO Kaiseki Bento Lunch
 

For a deeper experience, the restaurant offers the Mini Kaiseki Menu, five traditional kaiseki dishes at a cost of 130 euros or the Chef's Menu, six courses of the day selected by Chef Katsumi Soga, 140 euros. What is special about these offerings is that they are carefully designed to offer the same experience as dinner, in a “business lunch” formula, congenial for those who are passing through in a hurry but want to hole up in a zen corner.

Bento Box di IYO Kaiseki
 

In the course we were able to try, we opted for the “mini Kaiseki menu” formula, with five courses. We started with the Owan Hagi Shinjā, a soup that celebrates the simplicity and sophistication of Japanese cuisine. The clear, aromatic broth delicately envelops the palate, while the ingredients - white fish, azuki and edamame - dance in harmony. It is an opening that invites contemplation, a prelude that prepares the diner for the journey.

IYO Kaiseki zuppa
 

This is followed by the Mukouzuke, the sashimi of the day. Each cut is a demonstration of artistry, each bite an explosion of freshness that tells of the sea from which it comes. The fish, chosen daily from the best selections, is accompanied by accents of sauces and seasonings that enhance its purity without ever overpowering it. The third act was entrusted to the Yakimono - Suzuki Uni Kimiyaki, a sea bass cooked to perfection over Japanese charcoal. A specialty that we find in the main kitchen signatures of the entire IYO group. The soft, succulent meat is enhanced by the creaminess of the sea urchin, which adds a brackish, enveloping note. The dish is complemented by a marinated salad, a fresh contrast that balances the intensity of the flavors.

iyo kaiseki branzino gamero e tonno
 
IYO Kaiseki salmone e ikura
 

The journey continued with the Gohanmono - Gohan, where akitakomachi rice became the protagonist. Cooked and served with religious care, the rice was paired with a miso piglet that blended sweetness and savoriness, accompanied by a red miso soup that warmed and comforted, at the conclusion of the meal. To speak of this rice as something “simple” is a shame toward the hours of processing that Soga-sensei put into each grain, made translucent like a river pearl by his hands.

IYO Kaiseki GOHANMONO
 
IYO Kaiseki Wagyu sumibiyaki
 

The finale is a tribute to chef Luca De Santi's creativity: the Kashi, a dessert that surprises and conquers. The yuba and raspberry millefeuille is a symphony of textures, where crunchiness meets sweetness, and Japanese tradition embraces Italian technique. IYO Kaiseki is more than a restaurant: it is a temple of beauty, a place where cuisine becomes art and art becomes emotion. Every detail, from the choice of ingredients to the presentation of dishes, is designed to create an experience that speaks to the heart. Claudio Liu and his team have created a place that is not only a tribute to Japan, but also a bridge between cultures, an invitation to slow down and live in the present.

IYO Kaiseki nocciola e caramello
 

For those seeking not just a meal, but a journey into the essence of Japanese cuisine, IYO Kaiseki is a must-visit destination. An experience that stays in the heart and not in the stomach, a journey that begins with the first course and does not end. It will be remembered.

Contact

Iyo Kaiseki

Piazza Alvar Aalto, 9N02, 20124 Milan MI

Phone: + 39 02 250 62 888

Whatsapp: +39 349 9738376

info@iyo-kaiseki.com

Website

 

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