Miracle in Sedella, a town in Malaga: Victor Hierrezuelo, a 27-year-old chef trained in such prestigious kitchens as Arzak's, decides to leave haute cuisine to save his family's chiringuito. The informal and humble bar has taken on a new look since February 2023, transforming into a fine dining restaurant while remaining true to tradition.
Cover photo: Diario Sur
The News
In Andalusia, between the mountains of the Sierra de Tejeda, Almijara, and Alhama, the small village of Sedella retains the typical, quaint look of the villages of yesteryear: white houses, narrow streets, and a quiet atmosphere. Here Victor Hierrezuelo, 27, offers the 600 inhabitants everything he learned during his years of training at Archidona Hospitality School, and his first internship in Arzak.
"My dream was to work alongside Benito Gomez, yet fate led me to stay in the province of Malaga. I could have continued to gain experience in other establishments, instead I gave a second chance to the family bar, opening a new version in February 2023, after a lavish investment of more than 100,000 euros, “ the young man tells El Pais.
"El Chiringuito was born in 1986, it was opened by my grandparents returning from Switzerland, where they had emigrated in search of better conditions. Initially, drinks and tapas were served; soon after, full meals made by Rosita's precious hands were integrated. There are a variety of dishes on the menu, both meat and fish, or a tasting for 70 euros, consisting of ten courses, which must be ordered at least a week in advance. I have not upset the traditional recipes, such as tripe, black pudding, and garlic soup, but rather I re-propose them in a modern key, with avant-garde techniques, which I have studied and learned from the starred chefs with whom I have had the honor of working."
Victor plays with the raw material, without overdoing it, respecting the seasonality and availability of the products "Every week the catch changes, and consequently the off menus, designed to surprise the hikers who come to town to reach La Maroma (the highest peak in the area)! I often go to the neighboring markets to buy limited goodies from small entities, almonds, oil, grapes, fruits and vegetables. That's why I have to organize in time should the customer want to follow a route".
Needless to say, he started a promising business, despite all the difficulties related to geographical location, boldly reconnecting with his roots. It is the hallmark, and strength, of a sensible guy who has not given up in the face of the challenges of the industry.
