Elkano, Getaria's iconic restaurant, blends knowledge and technique, thanks to the experience accumulated over the years by the Arregi family. Since 1964, it has been carefully ennobling local flavors with a focus on cuts of fish once considered only scraps. Through a philosophy based on harmony with the land, it has gained an international reputation.
The story
Getaria, nestled along the coast of Guipúzcoa in the Basque Country, is a picturesque village, famous for its history and inhabitants. In addition to being known as the birthplace of fashion designer Cristóbal Balenciaga, the town is strongly associated with the persona of Juan Sebastián Elkano, the first person to complete the circumnavigation of the globe. The charm of the town lies not only in its prominent personalities, but also in its characteristic maritime atmosphere, narrow alleys, lively port, and coastal traditions.
Elkano is also the name of a restaurant founded in 1964 by the Arregi family that is considered a Basque institution. It owes its fame to an authentic interpretation of seafood cuisine, where grilled fish is the undisputed protagonist, a dish of necessity favored by sailors, who used to bring coal and irons on board. The combination of local flavors, refined techniques and respect for the fish fauna has made it a cult place for food enthusiasts from all over the world.
The success of the restaurant is based on the transmission, from generation to generation, of “knowledge accumulated through research, reflection and symbiosis with the environment,” as Aitor, the owner, explains to La Vanguardia. “The ecosystem here is privileged; the bluefish come to lay their eggs in these waters.”
"My grandmother Joxepa was a maid, she learned everything from the cooks of the nobility, then at Panier Fleuri or Nicolasa. She later opened a grocery store downtown with her husband. Meanwhile, the youngest of her three sons, Pedro, my father, ended up emigrating to Germany. Upon his return in 1964, they turned the grocery store into a bar. She made 'cazuelitas' and he took care of the fishermen."
Through the study of ancient practices, today's team, including executive chef Pablo Vicari and sommelier Nico Boise, discovered the perfect balance, managing to show diners the raw material in its purest form. This approach makes it possible to keep the organoleptic characteristics of the products intact, enhancing them without excessive manipulation, and create dishes that tell the story of the culture of the area. "The first grillers were born the moment tourists began to be interested in those aromatic scents from the burning wood that hovered in the street, unmistakable scents. Pedro was the first to throw the neck of a hake, which until then had been used for soup, into the fire. It was a revolution: the scraps were finally valued and appreciated. The same thing happened with turbot, when it was roasted with all the skin. In 1988 they renovated the tavern to make a real dining room out of it; that's how Elkano came to life."
Each preparation follows a precise ritual, cuts once considered of little value are transformed with respect, and elevated so that the experience can be singular for every palate. Emblematic preparations, which not only enhance creativity, but celebrate the rebirth of so-called poor ingredients, giving them another chance. The taste of certain elements is extraordinary when cooked in a certain way - the top of the loin, the head, the belly, the cheek, or the brain. In an ever-changing world, the Arregi remain true to their roots, proving that true luxury lies in simplicity.
