"Big chefs are struggling to stay afloat, and if they struggle you can only imagine what the difficulty is for smaller businesses." Tom Kerridge on the future of the restaurant industry.
The news
Numerous successes, TV programs, and twelve published books have never distracted Tom Kerridge, a British celebrity chef with more than six restaurants in the UK - including The Hand and Flower in Marlow, the first pub to receive two Michelin stars - from caring about the day-to-day operations of those in the hospitality industry.
Interviewed by the Independent, on the occasion of the presentation of "Tom kerridge Cooks Britain," his latest book and TV show of the same name - where with recipes and stories of products he travels all over the United Kingdom - he did not hesitate to highlight the difficult period that, at the moment, the restaurant industry is going through. "The situation is still very, very complicated: there have been some high-profile closures," he says, referring to chef Monica Galetti, who recently announced the backstop of Mare, her restaurant in London. "These are great chefs who are struggling to stay afloat, and if they struggle one can only imagine how difficult it is for smaller businesses. We always have to keep in mind that closing a restaurant impacts all the 'people behind the scenes.' The problem is huge and is burdening the entire industry. I'm sure everyone is facing difficult times, but hospitality seems to be in an even more critical state," he continued. "It's one of those situations where we can only wait and see if restaurants can make it through the next 2 years."
With his 360-degree vision, which together with talent and tenacity, is the key to his success, Kerridge then shifted the focus to the importance of chefs in promoting and enhancing the work of farmers and ranchers. "We chefs are the ones who determine the end result. If someone took years to produce and grow carrots and beets, or if they are raising free-range chickens, cattle, etc., we are responsible for that. When you become a chef, you realize that you are the last point of contact between the artisans and the guests; it is really a huge responsibility. When you enter the kitchen, you have to be very clear about all of that at any time. What I've always focused on, in my 32-year career, has been upstream research, and my business has always been product-driven," he noted.
Kerridge then goes on to reflect on progress and innovation, pointing out how they are a double-edged sword: stimulating on the one hand, because they allow for a deeper knowledge of products and ingredients; detrimental on the other, because of the hustle and bustle they entail. The assist with producers is perfect for reflecting on seasons and knowing how to wait for the right moment. "Every season has its advantages. Fall and winter are always special to me. At that time of year, we braise, slow-cook root vegetables, and I love those flavors: they are punchy and intense. But then I can't wait for them to end and for spring to begin: it's funny, I love the flavors of fall and winter, but I can't wait to see the first asparagus and the combination of green leaves and sprouts, and then move on to summer when the fruits are ripe. I welcome every season that comes," he concludes, with the hope that spring will be the next season for the hospitality industry.
