It has a poetic tone, tinged with irony, Andoni Luis Aduriz's signature dessert: a broken eggshell on the plate, following an iconic gesture of avant-garde cuisine, with egg whites and yolks in different elaborations.
By now it is almost a cliché, to present a dessert in the form of an egg. Andoni Luis Aduriz did depict the theme years ago and in his own way: we are in Spain and this is for all intents and purposes a trompe-l'oeil, whose shell is also provocatively eaten.
The technique is advanced, but also a bit Italian (Cracco's marinated yolk); above all, it does not lack a flicker of gloomy irony in the lumps of yolk and the broken egg, which picks up an iconic gesture of the avant-garde.
BROKEN EGG, FROZEN YOLK AND WHITE FLOWERS BY ANDONI LUIS ADURIZ
Ingredients
For the yolk ice cream:
- 550 g fresh milk
- 100 g of cream
- 100 g dextrose
- 55 g fresh egg yolks
- 25 g sugar
- salt
Heat cream and milk in a bain-marie to 40 °C. Combine milk powder with dextrose and mix with hand-held electric whisk. Whisk egg yolks with sugar in a bowl until frothy. Pour into the saucepan containing the first mixture and mix with the whisk. Bring to 83 °C without stopping stirring with a spatula and remove from heat, so that with residual heat the temperature rises to 85 °C. Cool immediately in a reverse bain-marie as fast as you can. After two hours of resting at - 5 °C, whip the ice cream.
For yolk lumps:
- 1.8 kg of sugar
- 200 g fine salt
- 12 eggs
Mix sugar and salt. Lay yolks between layers of mixture on Gastronorm plates for 24 hours, remove and rinse. Coarsely break up and store in a cool place.
For edible egg shell:
- 80 g of mannitol
- 2 g white dye (vegetable glycerin, lactose, titanium dioxide, corn starch)
Melt the mannitol in a saucepan, and when it reaches 150 °C, incorporate the dye. Pour into molds, removing excess. Unmold and smooth out in case of imperfections.
For the egg insulator:
- 205 g of cocoa butter
- 100 g almonds
- 1 g salt
- fat-soluble white dye
Toast the almonds with salt at 200 °C. Place them in the Thermomix with the melted butter and chop. Let stand, sift, and when the mixture has cooled, distribute into the shells, forming a thin layer.
For the egg white:
- 750 ml mineral water
- 250 g almond
- 450 g of almond milk
- 55 g sugar
- 1.5 g of salt
- 1.6 g iota
- 1.2 g agar-agar
- 0.2 g xanthan
- 2 drops of bitter almond essence
Grind almonds in water at maximum speed for 30 seconds. Pass through Chinese strainer and then through ethamine to make almond milk. Vacuum-pack 450 g portions. This milk can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Mix the dry ingredients in a bowl (sugar, salt, iota, agar-agar and xanthan). Pour 450 g of almond milk into a small saucepan and incorporate the previous mixture. Heat to 85 °C and hold at this temperature for 1 minute to hydrate well. Remove from heat and allow to cool in a suitable container. Combine the essence drops and stir gently. When the temperature reaches 28 °C, start filling the eggs.
For the unusual egg:
- edible egg shell
- egg white mixture
Using a 200 ml bottle of egg white mixture, stuff the shells with 45 g of filling. Place in the refrigerator and chill for at least one hour before serving.
For the white flowers:
- hot lips sage
- cosmos
- albada
Whip the yolk ice cream, incorporate the yolk pieces and place in the freezer at - 12 °C. Serve the ice cream, white flowers and broken egg on a flat plate.
Address
Mugaritz
Aldura Gunea Aldea, 20, 20100 Errenteria, Gipuzkoa, Spagna
Phone: +34 943 52 24 55