Born almost by chance in 2020, the project now has four venues in as many districts of Rome, with the hope of opening in Milan as well.
The story
Considered one of the best Roman pizzerias in the capital, L'Elementare has built its success in just four years. Behind this project are Mirko Rizzo - one of the first Roman pizzaioli to bring the concept of quality "pizzeria al taglio" to the suburbs, with his Pommidoro in Centocelle -, Matteo Cipelletti, Federico Feliziani and Lino Alessandro Lucarelli.
"It's amazing how quickly and intensely these years have passed," comments the young entrepreneur Feliziani. "When we received the proposal to take over the pizza corner at the Appio Park, with Mirko Rizzo we decided to jump at it, certain that it was going to be an experience that would last just the time of a summer.
Since that summer of 2020, however, after the temporary lifting of Covid's restrictive measures, Elementare has acquired the reputation it holds today, a round, low, Roman-style pizza that focuses on simplicity. "The meaning behind the name Elementare is not intended to be "primary", as schools, but as an invitation to enjoy a simple but effective leavened proposal," comments Rizzo, who together with Lino Alessandro Lucarelli takes care of the culinary proposal of the 4 stores in Rome. "It was the last evening, the umpteenth in which we churned out over 500 pizzas. Tired as hell but overjoyed with the result,' Mirko continues, ' with Federico we glanced at each other and he said... Of course, a great success like this would be stupid not to have it all year round!
So the couple seized the opportunity to open the pizzeria with a permanent location in Trastevere in 2020, an encore that will be matched by the opening of the outlet in Tuscolano in September 2023 and the very recent Elementare in Testaccio. "We chose Testaccio because we needed to open a new pizzeria that was not too far from the first one. The reason? In Trastevere from Friday to Sunday we turn down so many bookings a day. Now, instead, with the Testaccio location we can divert them here."
How's pizza at Elementare
Together with his right-hand man Lucarelli, Mirko Rizzo studied a straightforward dough with brewer's yeast, maturation between 24 and 36 hours and a 60 per cent hydration, not very high but sufficient for the 'crunchy' effect, typical of the Roman leavened disc. "In the end, the simplest pizzas are the most successful," confesses Rizzo, who devised a menu (the same in all four restaurants) divided into 'iconic pizzas', 'specials', 'cor sugo', literally "with sauce", and 'without sauce'.
"I remember when I was a kid, a special pizza was bufala mozzarella and bresaola, and I put it on the menu almost as a joke and could never take it off again. The same applies to the Datte Foco, our "diavola" (or "pepperoni"), and the "Saltimbocca alla Romana", our iconic pizzas,' adds the pizzaiolo dell'Elementare, who, in the 'specials' category, switches different flavours every three months, in the usual menu change. Among them, the "Agnello e Carciofi", "lamb and artichoke" pizza - available during springtime - with fiordilatte cheese, lamb meatballs, fried artichokes, cacio e ovo cream, Pecorino cheese and mint is decidedly mouth-watering and embodies many symbols of the Roman culinary tradition.
If, on the other hand, you are in the mood for 'an 'iconic', the Marinara Doppia passata of yellow datterino, roasted yellow pachino tomatoes, anchovies from Cetara, basil, white Sicilian oregano, garlic oil, parsley and chilli pepper is a certainty of lightness and goodness.
Even the "fritti", fried dishes - divided into classics and iconic - are characterised by compelling fillings and super-crispy breadcrumbs, from the "Supplì al telefono" with tomato, rice, fiordilatte, grana cheese and basil to the "Tonnarello cacio e pepe"; but in its simplicity, the "Spaghetto Ajo e ojo" version with chilli pepper and parsley is also delicious. Try among 'the seasonals' "Bomba Anarchica", a supplì filled with tubetti rigati, pumpkin, sage, guanciale and smoked caciocavallo cheese.
"We are a growing business, we have a lot of requests but we want to be selective, because the quality of the leavened dough and the raw material must always be high,' concludes Mirko Rizzo, who, when asked about an expansion outside the borders of Rome, replies: "We are about to reach an agreement in Milan, because one of our aims is to bring our pizza philosophy to a city where a product like ours does not exist."
Contacts
L'Elementare
