Unstoppable Mauro Colagreco: the chef of the award-winning Mirazur, already present in London, Beijing, Tokyo, Bangkok, Singapore, and Argentina, has just opened Plaisance in Hong Kong. Here too, he has taken the commitment to work with small local organic producers, maintaining a focus on education and guest satisfaction.
The chef
When Mauro Colagreco, during his lectures at university or culinary schools, asks aspiring chefs how long it takes for the onion they use every day to be ready to harvest, no one knows the correct answer: at least 100 days. And this is a sign of how much more we have to do to reconnect people with the importance of nourishing themselves and others.
"Chefs must honor their power: feeding someone is offering them the chance to live another day," declares Colagreco, who in 2022 was appointed as a UNESCO goodwill ambassador for biodiversity, in an interview with the South China Morning Post. "Being a chef doesn't just mean preparing good food, but much more. I'm probably part of the last generation of professionals who learned to cook at home from grandmothers and mothers. They taught us not only the recipe but also about seasonality, history, and medicine. Now people cook much less at home, and the transmission between generations has been lost. We chefs have visibility, we have a voice, so we must take responsibility for educating guests about food, seasonality, and nature."
It's about contributing to a great challenge: that of redirecting the food system so that it finds a balance with nature, contrasting climate change. That's why it's imperative to eat "locally". "I can't imagine a restaurant that isn't local and seasonal. It's a matter of respect for the guests and the land that welcomes us," continues Colagreco. That's why, landing in Hong Kong with chef Héloïse Fischbach, he spent over a month building the network of suppliers for the Plaisance restaurant, the P Lounge bistro, and the Club Plaisance, a lounge bar reserved for members. "Establishing a relationship with these farmers is such a pleasure; they know everything about their ingredients, and it's not uncommon for them to suggest something that allows you to rethink and create the perfect dish."
These openings quickly follow those of Cyclo in Tokyo and three venues at the Raffles hotel in London, in the spaces of a headquarters of Winston Churchill: fine dining, Mauro’s Room, and the informal Saison. But the chef seems to keep his feet on the ground wherever he is. "Michelin drives gastronomy, and it's always good to have a certain level of competition. However, we must remain focused on those who pay to come and eat. Sometimes young chefs, and even those who are not so young, forget the purpose of cooking for guests. Instead, they should remain focused on the choices they make as chefs when it comes to nourishing people."
