"San Francisco as a city, and California as a state, do not support small businesses, especially restaurants." The owners of a traditional Italian eatery abroad discuss industry changes and their recent closure.
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The end is never truly the end; it’s merely a new beginning in one form or another. This unwritten rule stands true even under the San Francisco sky, including for an Italian trattoria with a "market-driven cuisine" named “Che Fico.” After four years in business, including navigating through the pandemic, the restaurant has announced the closure of its first location (they have several in the city).
The owners shared their "difficult decision" in an Instagram post last Saturday, emphasizing that this isn't a final farewell, but rather a new beginning. "Post-pandemic, our beloved neighborhood restaurant struggled with new economic realities, but this current business model was unsustainable," wrote David Nayfeld, owner and James Beard Award semifinalist, as reported by SFGate. "Despite our best efforts, after offering takeout, pantry items, catering, private events, and adjusting our prices, the challenges persisted."
The trattoria cut prices by as much as 20%, simplified its menu to focus on pizzas and pastas, with the aim of increasing customer traffic and boosting overall revenue. Additionally, Che Fico lowered one of its surcharges by 50%, reducing a table service fee that had been introduced two and a half years ago to ensure better wages and benefits for employees when indoor dining resumed during the pandemic. However, Nayfeld realized that even these efforts weren’t enough to turn things around.
"Overall, we've made every possible adjustment. But here's the problem: it's clear that the restaurant industry is currently facing too many challenges and risks," Nayfeld said. "It's really tough, and it's not about poor management. Restaurants across the country are feeling the pinch as consumer spending is lower. People are experiencing the catastrophic effects of the economy. They're spending and going out less."
On the other hand, Che Fico Alimentari (called "our sister restaurant") opened in 2019 as a 60-seat eatery with an adjoining market that sold Italian wines, sauces, jams, and ready-to-bake crostatas, as well as takeaway pasta. Despite the loss, the owners said they are optimistic about the new chapter for Che Fico in San Francisco. The "sister" branch, located on Divisadero, will merge with the upstairs restaurant after its last day of service on May 9, creating a unified dining experience that could ideally improve operations. Additionally, Nayfeld plans to reconfigure the downstairs space into a grab-and-go concept called Che Fico To-Go, offering tiramisù, pizza, and salad for takeaway.
"We think people will be happy with the changes we've made," Nayfeld said. "These are critical decisions that real businesses have to make every day. The fact is, San Francisco as a city and California as a state do not support small businesses, especially restaurants. They don't appreciate how crucial our work is for community vibrancy and employment. They could make a difference if they wanted to; instead, they prefer to bury their heads in the sand."
