Transforming eggs and onions into fine cuisine dishes, tending the garden, and personally overseeing the creative process behind the menu: as the head chef of a Michelin-starred establishment at just 29, Martina Puigvert is the culinary revelation of 2024.
The chef
Young but already on a path paved with success: 2023 was a memorable year for Martina Puigvert. The chef, who shares the kitchen of the Michelin-starred Les Cols (Olot) with her mother Fina Puigdevall, has continued to win awards in recent months, culminating in the prestigious recognition of Best Young Chef 2024, awarded to her by the Michelin Guide last November.
At Les Cols, Martina leads an ambitious goal together with her sisters Clara and Carlota, joining past and present in a harmonious balance. Unlike other environments, there are no clashes of generations or power struggles here, but rather a smooth and respectful collaboration. "Our project is more alive than ever, and the garden is becoming increasingly present in the kitchen. We are focused on trying to close the circle of sustainability as much as possible," proudly declares the culinary revelation (who now oversees the entire creative process of the restaurant) to the microphones of La Vanguardia.
Moreover, she herself takes care of the surrounding microcosm in her spare time: "There has always been a garden and a chicken coop here, in addition to the fields of corn and buckwheat (a local variety that my mother introduced to the menu years ago). But after university, when I arrived, we organized ourselves a bit better. We have experts like a biologist who works with us daily and helps us better manage our organic garden. I always try to regularly follow the care of the garden and crops, to make it a routine activity: I usually dedicate myself intensely to it every Friday," she tells Elle.
Today, Martina makes her solo debut at the Veraz hotel pop-up at the Barcelona Edition, an opportunity she considers perfect for her cuisine. The luxurious and artistic atmosphere that characterizes Les Cols perfectly matches that of the hotel, making this space ideal for expressing her culinary creativity.
Among the first dishes that can be tasted, both in tasting menus and separately, stands out a onion royale with breadcrumbs and licorice, an iconic dish of Les Cols to which Puigvert has added some touches, with the intention of enhancing one of the humblest products to make it visually much more attractive. One of the most creative voices on the menu, however, is undoubtedly represented by the fresh egg from the Les Cols henhouse, accompanied by a variety of zero-miles vegetables. Martina presents this delight in an exciting array of colors, inspired by the works of artists like Kandinsky and Miró. Cod is the main character of a dish with perfect cooking, accompanied by brandade, pilpil, raisins, and muscat, a true triumph of flavors and contrasts that delights the palate.
Martina's sober yet generous cuisine is appreciated to the last bite, with a dessert that highlights the extreme versatility of the carrot, the undisputed star of the final course. With her creativity and mastery, Martina brings to the table an unforgettable gastronomic experience that celebrates authentic flavors and the beauty of nature.
