Lovrinovich for a day: This is the time when the whirlwind of well-wishes, charms, and predictions is unleashed. Who will win one, two, or three Michelin stars on November 14th in Brescia? our picks and those of the most distinguished Italian gourmands.
Michelin Guide Italy 2024: the "gourmet foresight"
Which critic hasn't dreamt of sitting in the enigmatic Sergio Lovrinovich's seat, at least for a day? Controversial, loved, and hated, the Michelin Guide, with its (almost) century-long history, continues to make waves in the ever-dynamic and trendy world of global cuisine. As the saying goes “lots of foes, lots of honor.”
On the eve of the guide's presentation on November 14th at the Teatro Grande in Brescia, the gossip and whirlwind of well-wishes and charms couldn't help but ignite. For example, what will happen to Niederkofler, whose new restaurant can certainly not be considered a step down? Will it earn two or even three stars at once? And Gaetano Trovato, the master of neoclassical cuisine, with his new crystal cathedral, a restaurant like no other in Italy? And Giancarlo Perbellini, who made a triumphant return to the exciting spaces of the 12 Apostoli, where he took his first steps?
As for single stars, thoughts quickly turn to Terry Giacomello, the unwavering avant-garde chef from Nin, and the Capitaneo brothers with their grandiose restaurant in Piazza Duomo in Milan. In the picturesque Umbria, Andrea Impero of Borgobrufa, a tenacious creator of a material and personal cuisine. As for the complaints about missing second and third stars, it's a broken record that repeats every year (but Michelin, as we know, doesn't like to be pulled by the jacket). The esteemed Camanini, among the best Italian chefs, can take comfort in his top ranking in the 50 Best; then there are Sultano, Di Costanzo, the incomparable Baiocco, and the impeccable Antonio Guida. So, what is missing for Villa Feltrinelli and Seta to achieve the highest score? Ah, if only we knew... But some are quietly whispering "Davide Oldani." In this case, spells are in order.
Gourmands also have their say. The Ligurian Alberto Delta, tirelessly wielding his fork, mentions Osteria Grande in Arezzo, with chef Fatjon Goga and an exceptional dining room, for the single star. From Novara, the darling of food, Felice Marchioni, despite being discouraged, continues to hope for a second star for Lido 84. Meanwhile, the romagnol Lucrezia Pasolini, a stern critic, dares to predict two stars for Osteria Arbustico and Da Gorini and three stars for Glam by Donato Ascani, but she doesn't hold back her judgment of Buca di Cesenatico, which she believes deserves demotion.
The Venetian Chiara Agostinelli, who was the first to step onto the Espresso stage for the Gourmet of the Year award in 2016, proclaims one name above all: Luigi Taglienti for his sumptuous sauce menu from ‘IO’ in Piacenza. Also in the running for a Michelin star could be Contrada Bricconi, Borgo Santo Pietro, Cracco Portofino, and Saporium. Meanwhile, Alberto Gipponi of Dina, despite having "extremely original and elevated quality," wouldn't conform to Michelin clichés. For the highest score, there's the Duomo in Ragusa.