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Acquasanta: Unexpected Fine Dining in Testaccio - The Talent of Enrico Camponeschi

by:
Francesca Feresin
|
copertina acquasanta

Since 2019, Acquasanta has been distinguishing itself in the Roman culinary scene with high-level cuisine served in an informal, contemporary, yet elegant setting.

The restaurant 

Behind Testaccio's liveliest square lies Acquasanta, a fine dining restaurant in Rome with its own unique charm. Simplicity, immediacy, and authenticity– these words are enough to describe this successful bistro. In its beautiful interior spaces, featuring large windows, an open kitchen, soft lighting, and wooden tables, the unadorned mise en place promises an experience devoid of traditional embellishments that can be off-putting for newcomers to fine dining.

acquasanta sala
 

With Alessandro Bernabei in the dining room, the visionary behind Acquasanta along with Paolo Fiorenza and Giuseppe De Angelis, the restaurant has exuded personality and style since its opening in 2019, making it one of a kind in the Roman scene. Without flaunting it, crystal clear and rightfully audacious, Acquasanta reflects the culinary philosophy of Chef Enrico Camponeschi, a true Roman, an unwavering worker always ready for challenge and growth. A young man who has built a brilliant, determined, and calm career here.

chef Enrico Camponeschi 1280x1920
 

Up until a few months ago, the restaurant summed up the concept of "The Sea in its Essence," today Acquasanta's cuisine tells a different story, one of the land, agriculture, and livestock, with some astonishing 100% vegetarian options. It all starts with excellent raw ingredients. Worth mentioning is the purchase of fish at the Anzio auction, the hometown of the three partners, where Giuseppe De Angelis sources the daily ingredients for the kitchen. Here, it is prepared simply and with humbleness.

acquasanta sala 2
 

Enrico does not seek to amaze with an exaggeration of technique. He prefers substance, shaped around an always pleasing and stimulating aesthetics for the palate. There are two tasting menus available: "Onda d'autunno" with 6 Chef's choice courses (85 euros), with the option to add a pairing of 5 glasses for 50 euros; and "Te li ricordi i ricordi," featuring 5 historic dishes from the chef for 75 euros, with a pairing of 4 glasses for 40 euros. These options are complemented by seasonal à la carte selections.

acquasanta sala interna 1280x853
 

Acquasanta succeeds in Rome not only for its cuisine but also for its wine cellar. The wine list is in constant excitement, reflecting Alessandro Bernabei's passion for prestigious Italian and foreign labels. Many small wineries are featured, producing genuine and artisanal wines. Interestingly, this summer, Bernabei, along with two other partners, Daniele Yari Stati and Luca Laurenti, opened Ruvido, a wine bar in the Appio Latino area. My recommendation? Opt for the longer tasting experience and let Alessandro guide you to the best wine or wines to pair. Break down every barrier and prejudice and let yourself be transported into an extraordinary experience, far from the commonplaces of a neighborhood known for carbonara and coda alla vaccinara.

enrico camponeschi lo
 

The dishes 

The chef's welcome is never the same. It constantly changes and consists of various seasonal bites, colorful and punctual. Before even the appetizers arrive, homemade bread, wafers, and grissini made by Giulia Fusillo, an excellent pastry chef and bread maker, grace the table. A very young talent capable of astonishing with just a few simple elements. Now, it's time for the first appetizer: "Raw Marmora, Figs, and Lime." The naked and raw fish has an elegant bite that gently caresses the palate. Sweetness and freshness come from the figs and lime zest.

enrico camponeschi Crudo di Marmora Fichi e Lime AlbertoBlasetti 2829 1
 

The second appetizer, always featuring fresh seafood in accordance with the season, is "Red Prawn Tartare, Zucchini, and Sour Cream." Among the most beloved tastes of the evening, this creation showcases Camponeschi's skills in both seafood and vegetables. The touch of acidity is just right, balancing the sweeter tones of the crustacean, of undeniable quality. The "Mancini Spaghettone," anchovies, lime butter, and toasted hazelnuts, surprises. It's a pasta of substance, cooked to perfection, enveloped in a concentrated umami flavor, balanced by the milky and slightly acidic note of butter and the richer, almost fatty, note of hazelnut.

Enrico camponeschi Battuto di gamberi rossi zucchine e panna acida AlbertoBlasetti 3
 
enrico camponeschi Spaghettone Mancini alici burro al lime e nocciole tostate AlbertoBlasetti 3066 2
 

Next comes a vegetarian dish: "San Massimo Risotto Riserva, Tomato, Buffalo Mozzarella, and Basil." A reinterpretation of a traditional recipe by Camponeschi in a contemporary way. Every element of the traditional recipe is present, broken down and enhanced in every aspect, both in terms of color and flavor.

enrico camponeschi Risotto Riserva San Massimo pomodoro bufala e basilico AlbertoBlasetti 2
 
enrico camponeschi calamaro ripieno allarrabbiata AlbertoBlasetti 1
 

The final savory taste is a tribute to the palate: "Stuffed Calamari 'Arrabbiata'." An apparently simple dish, a perfect fusion of technique and taste. The calamari is tender just right, and the stuffing is moist and well sealed inside its container. And the spiciness of the filling? Calibrated to the milligram, creating an exciting second course that you won't stop eating. It ends beautifully with two of Giulia's creations, the "Egg Pasta 'Bottoncino'" filled with apple, raisins, pine nuts, and speck (yes, it's a dessert), and warm donuts to be filled with pastry cream, among the best tasted in the city.

giulia fusillo Bottoncino di pasta alluovo ripieno di mela uvetta pinoli e speck AlbertoBlasetti 3169 3
 
giulia fusillo dessert
 

Address

Acquasanta

Via Aldo Manuzio 28 - 00153 Rome

Tel: 06 45 55 00 20

Sunday to Thursday 7:30 - 10:30 pm  |  Friday - Saturday 12:30 - 3:00 pm / 7:30 - 10:30 pm

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