A Green Giant Nestled in the Heart of Cortona, with Vineyards and Pathways Stretching Uninterrupted from a Terrace with Horizon Views to a Michelin-Starred Restaurant Deeply Connected to the Region. Silvia Baracchi's Charming Residence Offers Guests More Than Just an "Instagram-Friendly" Rural Getaway.
"I created a hotel within the hotel for my hens: it's called Eggcelsior. The latest additions are Moroseta breed, with feathers so soft you'd want to cuddle them all the time. They spend hours free-ranging and clucking, only to retreat to their golden nest: yes, they are truly happy hens."
Silvia Baracchi isn't talking about pots and awards, nor the centuries-old estate transformed into a Relais & Chateaux with a determination that alone would be enough to convert many aspiring colleagues. We meet her for the first time in a small break between daily shopping, cooking classes, and caring for her 5-star poultry, noticing how the term "chef" has become too limiting for her and how she channels a visible surplus of energy into various activities.
For example, she personally creates the chandeliers for the Michelin-starred restaurant, which was set up in a former lemon house and quickly earned its Michelin star in just a few years; she pops up during service to live-stream anniversary wishes to a couple celebrating, always proudly recounting Cortona's glorious history, claiming Etruscan heritage and multilingual hospitality - the Tuscan accent seamlessly blending with English.
During the day, you see her tying and untying her apron at least a dozen times, never showing signs of fatigue, heat, or the frenzy of the organizational ladder that led her to infuse her life with passions, offering guests something more than just an Instagram-friendly rural escape.
The Falconiere
The venture begins with a 17th-century residence overlooking the hills, with ambitious plans strengthened by familial ties. An inherited cooking talent and, at the same time, the creator of her own personal cooking rule, Silvia delves deep into local recipes, realizing that food is an intimate way to understand the place where one is born. So, together with her husband Riccardo, in 1989, she innovated with respect for the ancient villa inherited from previous generations, laying a solid foundation to inspire future generations.
We're talking about a green giant nestled in the heart of Cortona, with vineyards and pathways that seamlessly connect a terrace with horizon views and an "Etruscan Spa" that silences the daily routine's timer.
Whether it's the consistently overbooked cooking classes (sought after by novices eager to learn the secrets of a lost art) or the busy calendar of rural activities – not just tastings, but also sessions of wine therapy and yoga among the vineyards – or even early morning bike rides culminating in a panoramic lunch with rejuvenating Chianina beef ragu paccheri; the essence of hospitality here is deeply woven into the environment: almost like a cross-stitch on which Silvia embroiders the entire guest experience.
Not surprisingly, visitors often connect with each other, becoming part of the social fabric of a place that also nurtures relationships. Viewed from above, Il Falconiere resembles a moving constellation: there's the historic part, where rooms and suites – often adorned with frescoes – blend elegant lounges, antique furniture, and sumptuous four-poster beds, as well as the complex of independent residences (Villa Borgo del Falco and the Winery Master Suite) vying for privacy to ensure a discreet vacation; the pool with its adjoining lounge bar, a small oasis for those who want to enjoy a summer lunch in their swimwear (glass in hand), and the Michelin-starred restaurant, awarded for over two decades for its menus deeply connected to the region.
Yet, in one or two extra days of stay, you discover more: Cantina Baracchi ready for wine tastings, a genuinely authentic retreat not far from the relais (La Locanda del Molino, with its commanding view over Val d'Esse), shaded woodland paths, fresh seasonal events – in autumn, even grape stomping. And then there are the twilight aperitifs. A path of lit candles, the scent of ingredients cooking, the dining room with its ever-changing reflections eagerly awaiting dinner.
The kitchen
At the tables of the fine dining restaurant, local flavors pulse through three arteries: the "terrestrial" journey of the Tuscany Travel menu, the coastal route – which leads to Azzurro, a journey offshore with a seasonal seafood catch – and finally, the total green itinerary, a kind of vegetarian relay showcasing the bounty of the harvest (in our case, Estate in Campagna). No matter the choice, Silvia projects the regional identity against a backdrop of continuous research because "inspiration travels in parallel with the many stimuli I absorb throughout the day, from visits to the courtyard to the need to use absolute products without wasting anything.
This is evident, for example, in the Vegetable Lasagna with delicate pasta, where a sheet of dough layers the early harvest vegetables in a double texture – simply blanched or roasted and reduced to jus – recreating a multicolored vertical garden. In the glass, the chosen companion is Veuve Clicquot's 2015 La Grande Dame Brut Champagne, dressed up by noted designer Paola Paronetto with six different shades to "change the outfit" of the collectible bottle.
The vintage offers a decidedly structured wine that, after a lively opening of white flowers, transitions to summer fruit notes like apple and peach. This choice isn't random; the cuvée embodies Madame Clicquot's avant-garde vision, the first to recognize and interpret the extraordinary expressive power of Pinot Noir (present here over 90%, with only 10% Chardonnay), noting that "Our black grapes give the finest white wines."
And it's precisely her, the unyielding "femme du vin," who is honored by this blend of 8 grand cru vineyards (Verzenay, Verzy, Ambonnay, Bouzy, Ay, Avize, Oger, and Mesnil-Sur-Oger), ready to seduce the palate with soft hints of brioche, hazelnut, and dried apricot, creating an almost three-dimensional depth. The finesse is the common thread between the dish and the bubbly, both possessing equal elegance and vigor; feminine intuition connecting two twin tastes.
But the range of pairings expands further with the subsequent courses. Take, for instance, the swiss chard tortelli stuffed with duck ragout, a slurpy tribute to the courtyard where these pasta delicacies rest on a shared foundation of taste and concept, composed of corn cream, aromatic oil, and crispy popcorn. Here, the Champagne holds its own in length, rounding off the savory peaks of the filling, while with the Turbot and roots, the impact is more delicate, gently caressing the carefully cooked fillet.
For die-hard enthusiasts of the Tuscan cuisine, the meat-themed course highlights the coffee Pici, using Valdichiana garlic, guanciale, and coffee foam – a lightning-fast match of life-saving strategies that Silvia candidly narrates with a related flashback: 'I was looking for a way to reuse the coffee left over from the tiramisu, and that's when I came up with the idea of pairing it with legumes - beans or peas, depending on the season - for a play of sweetness against bitterness, plus the salty kick of guanciale.'
The fork does the rest, blending the opposites into a tantalizing tangle. And between a smoked tea ox tongue and a suckling pig saltimbocca with Vin Santo brown sauce, the dining room fills with anecdotes about this happy slice of territory.
It will be intriguing to hear them again at breakfast, in the same sun-kissed spaces, with the focus on a table laden with freshly made delights - from leavened bread to cured meats, and even plant-based milk. As Silvia gives a nod from the driveway, the 'good morning' is integrated into her smile.
Address
Il Falconiere Relais & Chateaux
Località S. Martino Bocena, 370, 52044 Cortona AR
