Andoni Luis Aduriz, from a two-star restaurant to a casual spot with €16 dishes: “I’ll be serving cannelloni and hamburgers”

by:
Silvia Morstabilini
|
Copertina LOTU 3

For over twenty years, the name Andoni Luis Aduriz has been synonymous with experimentation, innovation, and the avant-garde. With his two-Michelin-starred restaurant Mugaritz, the Basque chef has redefined the boundaries of haute cuisine. Today, however, he has chosen to take a different path. With the opening of Lotu, the new restaurant located within the Hotel Palacio Bellas Artes San Sebastián – Curio Collection by Hilton, the chef is temporarily setting aside conceptual cuisine to bring to life a project that looks to the past, to conviviality, and to the great classics of international dining.

A concept that demonstrates how emotion can arise even from simplicity, without compromising the quality and attention to detail that have made the Basque chef famous: Lotu is located inside the historic Palacio Bellas Artes, one of Spain’s first movie theaters, which opened in 1914 and was recently restored to become an elegant four-star hotel. Even the restaurant’s name reflects its philosophy. In the Basque language, in fact, “Lotu” means “to unite” or “to connect,” a concept that perfectly encapsulates the project’s goal: to transform the dining table into a space for gathering, dialogue, and sharing. The restaurant spans several areas of the hotel, accompanying guests throughout the day. From the lobby bar—open from breakfast through evening cocktails—to the main dining room housed in the theater’s historic box seats, each space has been designed to offer a distinct experience, yet one that remains consistent with the restaurant’s identity.

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A Return to the Great Restaurants of the Twentieth Century

With Lotu, Aduriz pays homage to those restaurants that, for decades, represented much more than just a place to eat. They were spaces frequented by artists, writers, intellectuals, and filmmakers—places where conversation was just as important as the dishes served. It is precisely that spirit that the chef seeks to revive through a cuisine capable of evoking memories. While Mugaritz built its reputation on continuous gastronomic exploration, Lotu takes the opposite approach, offering a cuisine that is instantly recognizable, comforting, and deeply rooted in collective memory. This choice is not a step backward, but a different way of interpreting fine dining.

A menu that spans the history of gastronomy

The menu is a true journey through great international classics and Basque regional specialties. Among the most iconic offerings are the cannelloni that Truman Capote used to order at the famous Sardi’s in New York, the Filet Wellington inspired by the historic Palmer House, the refined pâté en croûte with pickles and Champagne mustard, and the sole dedicated to Dr. Gregorio Marañón, served according to the tradition of the Azaldegui restaurant. Alongside these dishes are much more casual options. A double beef smashburger, a pastrami sandwich on sourdough bread, and the traditional San Sebastián-style txangurro with pil-pil foam (all priced at 16 euros) demonstrate how, for Aduriz, there is no hierarchy between haute cuisine and comfort food. A burger and a Filet Wellington can share the same table. It is precisely this freedom that represents the true luxury of the project.

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Breakfast Takes Center Stage

Among the most interesting new features introduced by Lotu is a special focus on breakfast. For the first time, in fact, the hotel group has set up an in-house bakery and pastry shop, where bread and pastries are prepared every morning for restaurant guests. The menu—also available by reservation for non-hotel guests—features a selection of artisanal products served with butter, honey, jams, and extra-virgin olive oil. These are complemented by dishes prepared to order, such as Japanese pancakes with mascarpone cream and fresh fruit, eggs Benedict in various styles, or the egg sandwich with brioche, cheddar, and truffle butter. This menu reaffirms the commitment to enhancing every moment of the day through refined yet accessible cuisine.

A cuisine that puts people first

More than just a new restaurant, Lotu represents a reflection on the very meaning of hospitality. The project moves away from the pursuit of the “wow factor” typical of contemporary haute cuisine to rediscover something even more precious: the pleasure of gathering together around a table. The technique remains that of one of the greatest chefs on the international scene, but it is put at the service of a cuisine that speaks a universal language, made up of familiar flavors, memories, and sharing. At a time when many restaurants are chasing innovation at all costs, Aduriz chooses instead to look back. And he demonstrates that, sometimes, true modernity lies precisely in rediscovering the value of simplicity, memory, and conviviality—without compromising on excellence.

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