One of Marchesi's protégés, Paolo Lopriore has worked in numerous prestigious restaurants around Europe, but since 2016 he has finally gone independent. "Il Portico," located in Appiano Gentile, redefines the concept of conviviality by offering high-quality seasonal dishes with a unique service formula.
Born in Como in 1973, Paolo Lopriore grew up in a humble family. The maternal influence of Rosa, an amateur but passionate cook, marked the first chapter of his culinary journey. After hotel management school, a fateful encounter propelled him into international cuisine: his first internship was in Tremezzo with Gualtiero Marchesi at "La Terrazza."
In the early '90s, Paolo was in Milan, where he completed his military service and then briefly worked at "Enoteca Pinchiorri." Between 1993 and 1995, he returned to Marchesi, this time to the three-starred restaurant in Erbusco, the Relais "L'Albereta." However, his thirst for experience led him to France, first to Ledoyen and then to Troisgros, where he learned from Michel Porthos for two years. He then spent another two years at "Bagatelle" in Oslo until 1999, a period he has labeled as the most rewarding, filled with sleepless nights and celebrations among chefs.
In the 2000s, Paolo's cooking evolved, inspired by new Spanish trends but deeply rooted in Italian heritage. Upon his return to "L'Albereta," he initiated a creative collaboration with Enrico Crippa, which led to the Menu Oggi, a stage for dialogue with Marchesi. Then, between 2002 and 2012, Paolo worked at "Il Canto della Certosa di Maggiano," now closed, where he offered daring yet simple cuisine in which technique blended with pure gastronomic expression. In 2013, he briefly stayed at the "Grand Hotel in Como," then experimented with "Tre Cristi" in Milan during Expo 2015, a prelude to opening his own restaurant.
In 2016, Paolo indeed launched "Il Portico" in Appiano Gentile, near Como. Here, his cuisine redefines the concept of Italian conviviality through a revolution based on the recovery of classic schemes, an ode to free will. A unique menu is inspired by seasonal products: ingredients of various nobility arrive at the table separately, cooked to perfection, enhanced by sauces and condiments, and the customer has the freedom to combine these elements on their plate as they prefer. It's no surprise that many consider him the bravest chef in Italy.
